r0p0doe Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Finally got to test drive my car yesterday after working on it for 3 weeks, misfired a few times but now its running rough and not on all 4cylinders. 1-2 are fine I checked them after I started it 3-4 had a lot of carbon build up. Car is still in the process of being tuned. Going to check compression and see if the wires are even giving out a spark to thoes cylinders. I'll probably just change plugs and wires because they've been sitting in the car for 6yrs. I want to pin point exactly what's going on before I go to the parts shop. Am I missing anything to find what's going on? All tips are appreciated.... Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Just checked under my cap and rotor and think I found my culprit, I'm leaking coolant from thermostat housing and its wet inside. I'm going to dry it out and see what happens... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 yes ck for condensation under cap. this happen to me all the time when I pressure wash the motor or after a big snow storm then warms up fast. ck the valve lash on the cylinders as they can make a cylinder look bad, also will a crack valve or piston.all from no compression. make sure the wires are correct fire order. Dont let that guy Kia driver help you. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 you sure oil spoindal was at 11 28 at TDC then install dizzy and it pointed to #1 plg wire in the middle of the timming plate adjustment? NE 64 NGK wire set from Amazon buy 2 sest shipping is free. http://vimeo.com/19077890 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 That's what I think may have screwed it up, going to check compression on 3-4 I dried it up but its still rough and there's black smoke instead of white.... I really hope I don't have to tear it down to fix it Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Cylinder 3-4 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Cylinder 1 is dead Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Burnt valves to be exact and this is were it gets hard for me, when it comes to working inside the motor I have no skills Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 That's what I think may have screwed it up, going to check compression on 3-4 I dried it up but its still rough and there's black smoke instead of white.... I really hope I don't have to tear it down to fix it Burnt valves to be exact and this is were it gets hard for me, when it comes to working inside the motor I have no skills How did you get the head off in half an hour?? Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I didn't take the head off I did a compression test cylinder 1 is at 40psi 2 is at 180psi 3-4 is at 130psi Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Maybe the seat came loose. Maybe the piston is broken. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Maybe the seat came loose. Maybe the piston is broken. Heads coming off tomorrow so we will see... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Well, it could be a bad valve. But it could be lots of things. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I'm hoping for something not too bad Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 i WOULD CK THE VALVE LASH FIRST BEFORE PULLING THE HEAD OFF. remember loosen the cam bolt up first then set it to TDC then take everything off and use the timming chain wedge. PS mark the chain also on what Cam timming it is. in the 2 o clock postion. watch the vid. cyl 3 and 4 mine are that black also. since 3&4 use the same carb I think it would be jetting issue if anything to even worry about. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I'm going to look more into it today so I know exactly what's going on, carbs aren't tuned so thats probably part of the reason 3-4 are black. Been trying to get it up and running so there tuned properly Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Got started on it but I had to stop because my sister needs help packing her stuff for her move -_- Any idea what kinda of cam this is? I think I remember it saying a20 but i'm not sure Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Question Whats the zap strap for? Its a L20b cam(small square bumps approx mid point) There is conflicting info on Cams U20 to be sepecefic Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 QuestionWhats the zap strap for? Its a L20b cam(small square bumps approx mid point) There is conflicting info on Cams U20 to be sepecefic Thanks for that info, umm the zip tie was to kind of keep the chain in place when we were going to pull it before wedging the chain so it didnt fall but we didn't get to it today. I dont like that idea, im taking it off tomorrow and getting a wedge Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 The chain wont fall no where until the bolt is loose, before that point make sure you mark the chain and gear. If you take it off before wedging, whole new can of worms to sort USE the wedge!! Do NOT loosen the Cam gear bolt until then!! 1 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 The chain wont fall no where until the bolt is loose, before that point make sure you mark the chain and gear. If you take it off before wedging, whole new can of worms to sort USE the wedge!! Do NOT loosen the Cam gear bolt until then!! Ok, I want to do it the way you guys have advised. I get scared when ppl helping try to do otherwise since the whole disturbutor incident Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Ok, I want to do it the way you guys have advised. I get scared when ppl helping try to do otherwise since the whole disturbutor incident Dont fear a L head gasket, They are the easiest to do. Think lego,it really is that simple. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 I'll get it done, my sisters move is really messing up my deadline, I'm going to have to put off getting my car back on the road even further :( Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Just dont rush it,and all will be fine Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 By all means loosen the cam sprocket bolt, just do NOT remove it yet. Now set TDC. If you set TDC and wedge the chain it can come loose or the motor will bump when trying to loosen the cam bolt. tip Slip a large screwdriver or bar through the cam sprocket hole and turn it until jammed against the head to keep it from turning when loosening. Quote Link to comment
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