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The forgotten Beige 69 510 build *Pics fixed through page 8*


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#141 Draker

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 08:45 PM

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#142 MicroMachinery

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 01:21 AM

Beautiful. I love it. One thing, though. If you're going to use that head, I would recomment having the brass valve seats replaced with steel ones. My buddy just had to pull his head because the brass ones were too soft causing his valves to sink into the head.



#143 Draker

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 06:18 AM

Beautiful. I love it. One thing, though. If you're going to use that head, I would recomment having the brass valve seats replaced with steel ones. My buddy just had to pull his head because the brass ones were too soft causing his valves to sink into the head.

 

Good tip. I'll call around. I did notice the intake valves sunk in more than the exhaust.


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#144 docbainey

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 07:14 AM

Cool build

 

What are those seats out of?



#145 Draker

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 09:52 AM

Thanks!

 

They are Recaro LS seats. I believe they are just 70's aftermarket seats.


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#146 Draker

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 03:51 PM

Got a quote for $300 for machine work for the head..

 

I'll call a few other places. But if not like 50% cheaper I'll probably gonna pass at this point. Only takes about an hour to remove the head if I have an issue. Plus I bought engine for $100. This was suppose to just be rings and bearings. 

 

Not the best way to go about it.. don't follow my lead. I'll post compression numbers when the time comes.


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#147 MicroMachinery

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 04:04 PM

Wow, seriously? Bring me the head.. my machinist will do it for less than a third of that.



#148 MicroMachinery

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 04:04 PM

.. or you could just buy a SSS head for that.



#149 Draker

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 04:29 PM

I know a guy that used to own a race shop which is now closed. He might be able to do it.. but (not lying) he has brain damage from a car accident(Not related to racing). I'd rather not fuck it up. I'm all ears if anyone has a better recommendation.


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#150 Draker

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 01:15 PM

I think the head is just going back together. Valve seem to be sealing okay after lapping. The seats really should be done, but not for $300.


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#151 jrock4224

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 04:05 PM

nice looking good for my car...lol


It's very rare to find a ...
1/Datsun nut. ( they actually know and appreciate the work and expense that went into the build) and who also...
2/Can afford to buy it.


#152 Draker

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 07:14 PM

Got the valves and cam in, but then I ran out of time. Still need to install the rockers and get it all setup.


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#153 Busta Nut

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 09:59 PM

Here you are....damn I'm slow sometimes.....

 

 

Just so you know......

 

 

I know this ain't Oregon....

 

 

.....but MY cost for a complete head job could hit $375...if valve's need replacing....

............but I live in a place where money doesn't mean much to people.....

 

Sucks for people like me......

 

Keep it up dude!!

 

See ya soon B)


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#154 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 07:59 AM

post #124

You should hook B of mactchbox(assume its the red wire) to the blk/ white wire(keyON) on the ballast as this will give the box a true 12/14volts. Since you still using the point coil and ballast the + side coil is only like 6--9 volts when running as the ballast is cutting the current.  might run better this way


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#155 Draker

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 04:55 PM

post #124

You should hook B of mactchbox(assume its the red wire) to the blk/ white wire(keyON) on the ballast as this will give the box a true 12/14volts. Since you still using the point coil and ballast the + side coil is only like 6--9 volts when running as the ballast is cutting the current.  might run better this way

 

Actually, The ballast is bypassed. I bridged it with a hidden wire on the bottom side and the coil is for the matchbox. I should probably just remove the ballast so it doesn't confuse people, but I was leaving for aesthetics. Its more confusing than anything though.

 

I have been running into issues getting it to run right though. It stumbles.. and idles like shit. It's either the shit carbs.. and/or the dizzy setup. Thanks for the tip though. I'll probably just remove the ballast.


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#156 Draker

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 04:58 PM

Here you are....damn I'm slow sometimes.....

 

 

Just so you know......

 

 

I know this ain't Oregon....

 

 

.....but MY cost for a complete head job could hit $375...if valve's need replacing....

............but I live in a place where money doesn't mean much to people.....

 

Sucks for people like me......

 

Keep it up dude!!

 

See ya soon B)

 

If I added valves these fools probably would want over $500.. lol crazy talk.

 

I'm gonna run it, and if issues come up, I'll pop the head off. This was a running engine before I tore it down.. I just wanted to inspect and refresh it. Plus it was dirty as fuck. Can't have that.


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#157 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 31 January 2015 - 11:35 AM

yeah long as its a EI coil and the B is to plus with the blk wht (ON) wire. sometime people hook the HOT start(blk/blu) wire up also to this to have 3 connections.

and Blk to C that's all.

 

make sure the dist shaft isn't worn. I had this happen to a Point dizz with pertronix and at high end it would cut out. find out bushing was worn swapped another dizzy with same Pertronix was a whiole new car.

 

I alwsy ck the valve lash also then if sideddrafts ck my jets and venturis for wiggle

down draft I guess for vaccume leaks

 

also had a dizzy were the weights flew off the springs.  so maybe a pull to spin it would be EZ to do also


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#158 Draker

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Posted 01 February 2015 - 09:54 AM

yeah long as its a EI coil and the B is to plus with the blk wht (ON) wire. sometime people hook the HOT start(blk/blu) wire up also to this to have 3 connections.

and Blk to C that's all.

 

make sure the dist shaft isn't worn. I had this happen to a Point dizz with pertronix and at high end it would cut out. find out bushing was worn swapped another dizzy with same Pertronix was a whiole new car.

 

I alwsy ck the valve lash also then if sideddrafts ck my jets and venturis for wiggle

down draft I guess for vaccume leaks

 

also had a dizzy were the weights flew off the springs.  so maybe a pull to spin it would be EZ to do also

 

I actually swapped the Dizzy out for another one I had. Same issue :( 

 

I've had it running good a few times. None of those times were with the SU's though. I have a hunch one of the needles are bent. Probably looking at new needles and seats sometime soon if I want to run these carbs.


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#159 Draker

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 10:35 PM

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#160 Janksun

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 11:43 PM

Damn those seats look good.....