The forgotten Beige 69 510 build *Pics fixed through page 16*

[Draker]

Carb tune will happen again after work tomorrow. It's about 15.2:1 at 2500 rpm. Need to get that down to about 13.5 or 14 at 2500 rpm.

[datsunfreak]

Carb tune will happen again after work tomorrow. It's about 15.2:1 at 2500 rpm. Need to get that down to about 13.5 or 14 at 2500 rpm.

 

Nah, just crank up the advance a bit.   ^_^

[Draker]

I got the carbs tuned before making the drive over to bend. Other than a massive oil leak.. everything was fine.

 

Bought a fitting to fix the oil leak. More to come when I get the fitting in the mail.

[Draker]

And also a trip to the car wash to scrub the underside of the car. Lots of oil... everywhere. 

[KoHeartsGPA]

Oh boy lol

[Draker]

Found the leak

 

[Charlie69]

This sis a much stronger brass fitting.

 

[Draker]

This sis a much stronger brass fitting.

 

Yeah, but too short for what I need.

[Draker]

Problem is.. it was npt. I knew ithat when it was installed. I have a new setup on the way.. bspt and npt t fitting this time.

[Lockleaf]

Yeah, but too short for what I need.

[jrock4224]

did u install the oil pressure switch in the cantby truck 

[Rdixiemiller]

Old motor after I went through it the second time around.

https://youtu.be/sI9UUxxD4BM

Hey guys.....

Been lurking for a while. I'm an old fart, I worked on Datsuns back in the late 70's when they were fairly rare in NW Florida. Rebuilt a few that had been run hot, and blown head gaskets and softened the rings.

That clatter, or "cackle" as my boss used to call it is wrist pin noise. I built a 1972 ? L 16 engine, and had the same cackle at idle after we rebuilt it. You never heard it before the engine was refreshed (rings, bearings, and a hone job). One of the possible causes is if there is a cylinder ridge that was not reamed out all the way. The other one, that my old boss thought was more likely, was that with a freshly honed block, and new rings, there is more drag, and the piston "sticks" a bit at tdc, and at bdc. Any slack between the pin and piston or rod will cause a rattle, mostly at low rpm. We ran the engine for a month while we waited on a set of standard pistons, like I said, they were rare back then! New pistons and pins quieted it right down. The rattle won't hurt, I have seen engines go 100,000 miles sounding like that, in non high performance applications of course.

You have done a great job on this car, I don't think I ever saw one back when I was twisting wrenches. Mostly pickups, and B 210's. There was a Datsun dealer in Pensacola if I remember right, first one in our area.

Again, great job on the car!!!

[Draker]

Hey guys.....

Been lurking for a while. I'm an old fart, I worked on Datsuns back in the late 70's when they were fairly rare in NW Florida. Rebuilt a few that had been run hot, and blown head gaskets and softened the rings.

That clatter, or "cackle" as my boss used to call it is wrist pin noise. I built a 1972 ? L 16 engine, and had the same cackle at idle after we rebuilt it. You never heard it before the engine was refreshed (rings, bearings, and a hone job). One of the possible causes is if there is a cylinder ridge that was not reamed out all the way. The other one, that my old boss thought was more likely, was that with a freshly honed block, and new rings, there is more drag, and the piston "sticks" a bit at tdc, and at bdc. Any slack between the pin and piston or rod will cause a rattle, mostly at low rpm. We ran the engine for a month while we waited on a set of standard pistons, like I said, they were rare back then! New pistons and pins quieted it right down. The rattle won't hurt, I have seen engines go 100,000 miles sounding like that, in non high performance applications of course.

You have done a great job on this car, I don't think I ever saw one back when I was twisting wrenches. Mostly pickups, and B 210's. There was a Datsun dealer in Pensacola if I remember right, first one in our area.

Again, great job on the car!!!

 

 

Thanks for posting that info. I checked the wrist pin play by hand.. but it's quite possible as there was a small ridge at the top of the bore. Everything looked good when I tore the engine back down. I bet you are right, I saw nothing that would indicate this engine would not run for another 100k.

 

thanks for the feedback!!

[Rdixiemiller]

Like I said, you have done great work! In my day, we did a lot of refresh jobs, rings, rod bearings, and a valve lapping. It would dry up an oil burn for another 75k miles, at which time the body would have rusted away.

When I was turning wrenches, a US car was absolutely worn out at 100,000 miles. Body was loose, engine smoked and rattled, rusted.........

Then we would see these little Datsuns and Toyotas. Small "crap boxes" as the die hard big 3 guys called them. But they ran, and ran, and ran. Quality was so much better than US cars. In the late 70's, it was not unusual to need 10-12 trips back to the dealership for warranty issues. Japanese stuff went back once, usually because the driver needed something explained to them. Owners manuals were hilarious back then, Jinglish............

I never saw a 510 until much later, in Georgia. I'm not sure any were sold new in my area. I have really enjoyed looking at y'alls build ups, makes me want to find one.........

Of course, I have my Samurai to finish rebuilding, and my wife's Viper keeps me busy.........

[Draker]

Like I said, you have done great work! In my day, we did a lot of refresh jobs, rings, rod bearings, and a valve lapping. It would dry up an oil burn for another 75k miles, at which time the body would have rusted away.

When I was turning wrenches, a US car was absolutely worn out at 100,000 miles. Body was loose, engine smoked and rattled, rusted.........

Then we would see these little Datsuns and Toyotas. Small "crap boxes" as the die hard big 3 guys called them. But they ran, and ran, and ran. Quality was so much better than US cars. In the late 70's, it was not unusual to need 10-12 trips back to the dealership for warranty issues. Japanese stuff went back once, usually because the driver needed something explained to them. Owners manuals were hilarious back then, Jinglish............

I never saw a 510 until much later, in Georgia. I'm not sure any were sold new in my area. I have really enjoyed looking at y'alls build ups, makes me want to find one.........

Of course, I have my Samurai to finish rebuilding, and my wife's Viper keeps me busy.........

 

Welcome to Ratsun Rdixiemiller! thanks for sharing.

[racerx]

The japanese at that time had something to prove to the rest of the world that their cars were of quality and every year or generation they got better. Im in my 50s and i still remember, in my younger days, when people would make fun of anything that was made in Japan from motorcycles, cars, movies, radios and so on. And like i said earlier they consistently improve their projects and by the 80s, most of the cars on the road were Japanese.

[Draker]

Ordered a 45 degree 1/8 npt adapter... Should be here by the weekend.. then I can drive the car again. I hope....

[Draker]

Two small pieces.. hood bumpers and exhaust hanger.

 

The hanger is actually for my 2 door.

 

[kerleybird]

Keep it up!

[Draker]

I got the oil pressure sensor installed. Now I need to buy oil, fill, drive.

 

Pics of new setup on the weekend.

[d2maa]

nice build mate i love how dedicated you are to finish the car

[Draker]

Thanks!

[Leche]

Awesome work on your car, love the project!

[Draker]

I got the oil pressure sensor installed. Now I need to buy oil, fill, drive.

 

Pics of new setup on the weekend.

 

Fail.

 

I drove the car this weekend. Oil leak is gone.. but it stinks bad because everything is coated in oil. Next drive is going to be to the carwash to get the underside scrubbed. 

 

I also installed new hood bumper rubber. No more shaky hood. I think I'm going to order another set for the two door before they are NLA.

[Draker]

I figured I've been spending a little too much time in Cuz Merica.. so I just went out to take some pictures of the car.

 

 

New hood bumper rubbers

 

 

 

 

This is what I used to run both sensors after the oil leak.  Male to female 1/8" BSPT with a 1/8" female NPT port on top.

 

 

 

 

 

Staying dry in the garage!!