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New throw-out bearing, bad?


Trento

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Hey guys, so my friends and I dropped my tranny and put in a new clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing)

 

But now, when I have the clutch disengaged/clutch pedal pushed in, I'm getting a winding sound, like a bearing gone bad. Everything is pointing to the throw-out bearing, and atm I need the car to drive for work, so I'm hoping to get a response quickly within the next day so I can fix it.

 

Friend of mine says if I adjust the clutch pedal it should help, other people are saying I got a bad bearing.

 

It's a '78 280z

and it's an Exedy OEM clutch kit

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I doubt an adjustment would help , but you can always try.

 

Whining/squealing bearing is usually lack of lubrication ( in my experience but I'm not a mechanic :) )

( as you already know as well ;) )

 

I believe Datzenmike ... encourages to pack the throwout bearings with grease ( even though they are technically "sealed" :) )

 

You could also have a bad rear main/bad front tranny seal and oil is getting on the components , but sounds like a bad/dry throwout to me

 

Hopefully there is lube on the input shaft bushing/bearing.

 

Just a thought and good luck

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I cant see a bearing going bad that fast. All the Exedy kits I have seen use a KOYO bearing=good. did it say made in Japan?

 

The bearings I seen are all sealed and not able to pack.

 

YOu sure your trans has oil in it?

 

 

I did see one bearing go bad. I gave it to a guy and it shredded up in less than a year. I ask if you ck for pressure at the throwout clutch lever. It may have been adjusted wrong as he had the 510 type adjustment at the clutch lever. the later type are no adjustable so assume the adjustmant happens when you bleed the clutch

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Trans has oil.

I was doing the job at my school, so I had a lot of helping eyes to determine whether it was pressed on properly or not, and everyone said it looked good. My trans instructor said so himself. We also greased the input shaft, so I'm sure that it's not that.

 

EDIT:: Welp, just adjusted it, it's a little better, not as noisy and can't hear it as bad.. but it started raining so I'm fresh out of luck. Poo, will report back once rain goes away!

 

Is it on backwards?

 

Did you change the collar that holds the bearing at the same time??

I'm not quite sure what you mean, do you mean the collar that gets attached to the fork? If so, then no, I didn't change it.. is it something that should have been changed along with it? I'm kind of sol if that's true, I don't have a press or a bearing puller at home..

 

I called a Z-helpline and asked about it, the guy over the phone said he didn't know about the Exedy clutch kits, but asked if it had a specific pedal adjustment it's supposed to be set at.. so I'm hoping that might be it, gonna be adjusting it in a few minutes so I'll report back with results.

 

Crossing my fingers because I've got a lot of driving to do the next few nights... and now I gotta worry about my new wheels scraping when I reverse! Eee

 

Thanks for the input, guys!

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Collars come in different lengths. If changed, a longer one would have the bearing rubbing the spinning diaphragm fingers all the time. Not the problem I guess.

 

If the clutch arm has an adjustment set so there is about 2mm of 'wiggle room' and tighten the nuts together.

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  • 4 years later...

So I'm having the same issues as described above. I swapped a L20b into my 510. I had to replace the clutch with a 225mm one, and I replaced the throwout bearing collar as well. I initially kept the old collar, but found that it was too short (couldn't put it into gear with pedal pushed all the way in).

 

After I changed to a longer collar and got the engine back in, everything seemed fine on the initial drive, but about 1/2 mile into the test drive, I started to get a loud squealing noise when the clutch is pushed in. 

 

Sounds like I installed the new throwout bearing in backwards? How do I get the bearing off of the collar?

 

Lastly, I pulled the engine to get to the bearing the last time. I have a borrowed cherry picker right now, and it took about two hours to get all the accessories off and then back on to the engine. What are the steps to dropping the transmission to get to the bearing? Is one method easier than the other?

 

Thanks a bunch in advance.

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Gear puller will get the bearing off.

 

Disconnect battery cable.

Raise vehicle enough to do this work.

Drain trans

Remove drive shaft

Remove shifter

Unbolt clutch slave and hang out of the way, secure push rod so piston does not fall out.

Unbolt starter and secure out of the way. You don't have to undo the cable to it. (this is why you disconnect the battery)

Remove transmission harness and secure out of the way.

Disconnect the speedometer cable and secure out of the way.

Support transmission and unbolt trans cross member from underside of vehicle. (you may also have to support the oil pan to keep engine from tipping back)

Unbolt trans from engine, don't forget the screws into the bottom of the engine plate

Separate trans from engine and lower it and the cross member together.

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Look on the clutch inside of the transmission bell housing. Look to see if the larger diameter 225mm clutch pressure plate is rubbing the transmission case. This may be your sound and not the release bearing. Long shot, but the 240mm won't fit the stock 510 trans.

 

 

While the transmission is out... was the pilot bushing replaced? It's only $3

 

Also was the rear drive shaft seal in the transmission replaced? $5. Saves taking this out in a year to do.

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The transmission is a 5speed. I’ll check to see if the clutch is rubbing, but the noise is only when I press down on the clutch pedal. I didn’t replace the pilot bushing or shaft seal. The clutch kit I bought came with a new pilot bushing, but I don’t know where it goes.

 

@Hainz... I purchased a 225mm set up for a 620, then the new throw out bearing collar for a 620 as well. The bearing I used came with the clutch kit.

 

I am a total newb when it comes to cars, so I appreciate the help and for putting up with my lack of knowledge.

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So this is how it works, the clutch collar follows the clutch cover, so whatever clutch cover you use(225mm) needs to have the 225mm clutch collar, you start mixing them up and you are going to start having issues.

Generally speaking the 200mm collar is the tallest, the 225mm collar is in the middle, and the 240mm collar is short, the reason for the different collar heights is so the clutch arm is in the correct position so there is room for it to move without hitting the front or back edge of the hole the arm comes out of in the transmission.

When correct the rod coming out of the clutch slave should have around a 1/16th inch play(just barely be loose), if it is tight or sloppy you either have the wrong collar installed or the push rod has been modified and is the wrong length.

Normally I do not mix things like this up as it is hard to fix when in the vehicle, but when I am done installing the transmission, before I do anything else I check the arm position, it should be very close to the clutch slave without hitting the front edge of the hole the arm comes out of in the transmission.

Also it does appear that the lower collar in the photo has the bearing on backwards, but I would have to have it in my hands to know for sure, that could possibly have it squealing the moment you touch the clutch.

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