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what are my crossmember options?


king bee66

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Nah, just need to find a 510 driveshaft and shorten it a bit.  :rofl:

 

The H190 has a longer pumpkin than the H150 right? Like maybe by an inch or so? I wonder if you could cheat that inch out of the motor/tranny forward placement to avoid shortening the driveshaft?

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The H190 has a longer pumpkin than the H150 right? Like maybe by an inch or so?

 

I believe so, yes. 

 

I wonder if you could cheat that inch out of the motor/tranny forward placement to avoid shortening the driveshaft?

 

Moving the engine forward causes about 16 other problems that cost a hell of a lot more to fix than a simple driveshaft mod.   B)

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  • 4 years later...

For what it's worth, throwing this out there.....

 

510 CROSS MEMBER AND OIL PAN DO NOT MAKE THE L16/L18/L20 "BOLT IN".

 

The water pump sits 2" into the radiator mounting area on core support and engine sits approximately 4" away from firewall.... I literally just tried this.


 

So..... Yeah. You're all bullshitting saying it "just bolts right in" .....

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For what it's worth, throwing this out there.....

 

510 CROSS MEMBER AND OIL PAN DO NOT MAKE THE L16/L18/L20 "BOLT IN".

 

The water pump sits 2" into the radiator mounting area on core support and engine sits approximately 4" away from firewall.... I literally just tried this.

 

 

 

So..... Yeah. You're all bullshitting saying it "just bolts right in" .....

Dang, thats a bummer to hear. I have an L20B and 510 crossmember waiting to go in my B210 hahah, looks like I'm heading down the same road. Good luck to you, hope you can figure something out!

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For what it's worth, throwing this out there.....

 

510 CROSS MEMBER AND OIL PAN DO NOT MAKE THE L16/L18/L20 "BOLT IN".

 

The water pump sits 2" into the radiator mounting area on core support and engine sits approximately 4" away from firewall.... I literally just tried this.

 

 

 

So..... Yeah. You're all bullshitting saying it "just bolts right in" .....

 

This is good info to have. I have a 510 crossmember for this same swap. But after seeing the B210 at Canby with the L20b and stock crossmember I know it can be done that way.

 

I also have a 610 crossmember which is similar to the 510 except the metal towers for the motor mount are bolt on, given how far back those sit on the B210 I'm thinking that might be a good starting point to just put in a plate and offset them back. I suspect a 510 crossmember could be used with a piece of U-channel flipped upside down (like flat stock but stronger, metal mount sit in the groove of the U) and used to back space the mounting points for 510 or 620 motor mounts (i.e., bring it closer to the firewall).

 

Pics for reference:

 

Top down on Early B210 crossmember:

71C6A88B-8B74-4723-B205-EB8D63FF2748-154

631EE292-9CC4-43A6-BD4E-3A617D72E59D-148

 

Comparison of 1200 crossmember and flipped 510 crossmember:

BC765D25-54E7-4546-B36F-BF1B6A2AA004_zps

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The 510 cross member and similar will all bolt into the B210, but that's not the problem. The problem is where the mounting uprights, "horns", are located on crossmember.

 

On the B210, the horns are diagonal leaning towards firewall and place the engine rear wards. The 510 has the horns right in the middle on the crossmember.

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The 510 cross member and similar will all bolt into the B210, but that's not the problem. The problem is where the mounting uprights, "horns", are located on crossmember.

 

On the B210, the horns are diagonal leaning towards firewall and place the engine rear wards. The 510 has the horns right in the middle on the crossmember.

Exactly, per the picture you can see how much the horns are offset. I just recently moved my crossmember collection and I think a 610 crossmember with a setback plate for the horn may be an easier answer.
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Exactly, per the picture you can see how much the horns are offset. I just recently moved my crossmember collection and I think a 610 crossmember with a setback plate for the horn may be an easier answer.

That may be true. I have a friend with a 610 crossmember and I may ask to give it a try. If that happens, I'll report findings.

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610 xmember will not work. Confirmed this weekend.

 

Two options to put an L series in a B.

 

1) find a rare-as-fuck 140z / 160z cross from South Africa

 

2) make your own motor mounts.

 

 

I'm going with the latter.

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610 xmember will not work. Confirmed this weekend.

 

Two options to put an L series in a B.

 

1) find a rare-as-fuck 140z / 160z cross from South Africa

 

2) make your own motor mounts.

 

 

I'm going with the latter.

Out of curiosity why didn't the 610 crossmember work? Anyone know what crossmember the PB210 used in the JDM configuration? They do have a longer nose so maybe a 510 crossmember or a modified 120Y crossmember, 120y front suspension is very different from B210 and front sump.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Man, that sucks. I have a '77 200SX rotting in my garage that I was gonna take the L20B out of and try to fit into my '78 B210. Does anyone know if that 200SX (S10) crossmember will allow me to mount that engine in the B210? From what I have read the S10 and B210 are built on the same chassis.

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You know what.... The "S10" 200SX may work.

 

Can you post some pics on here?

 

Also, the pb210 in Asian and Oceanic markets were front sump. Why do you say the suspension is different than the hlb210?

 

The 610 is probably the best bet for someone who's OK with doing a less-than-satisfactory job with a "that'll do" attitude. It puts the engine back approximately 1.5" in comparison to the 510 crossmember.

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You know what.... The "S10" 200SX may work.

 

Can you post some pics on here?

 

Also, the pb210 in Asian and Oceanic markets were front sump. Why do you say the suspension is different than the hlb210?

 

The 610 is probably the best bet for someone who's OK with doing a less-than-satisfactory job with a "that'll do" attitude. It puts the engine back approximately 1.5" in comparison to the 510 crossmember.

I'd have to go dig out the side-by-side of the diagrams pics from the manual for it but the B210 got an upgraded front end for N.America, and the setup is different.

 

Good to know on the 610, sounds like just cutting and welding new towers to a B210 crossmember is the most straight forward. I'm really keen to see how this pans out, I've got a L20b long block sitting around waiting for a transmission and my time to swap it (after I finish 1200-KA project).

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  • 2 weeks later...

For what it's worth, throwing this out there.....

 

510 CROSS MEMBER AND OIL PAN DO NOT MAKE THE L16/L18/L20 "BOLT IN".

 

The water pump sits 2" into the radiator mounting area on core support and engine sits approximately 4" away from firewall.... I literally just tried this.

 

So..... Yeah. You're all bullshitting saying it "just bolts right in" .....

 

Don't know what I did different, but it worked for me...  

 

Did use a fairly thin radiator, but the car isn't really built for the longer engine, so I never gave it much thought...

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