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620 with SR20DET with AC


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#21 orangie

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 07:59 PM

What trans are you running, the stock 5 speed?  I moved my engine up about an inch and a quarter and to the right about three quarters of an inch.  That move is going to require me raising the tunnel which what I'm starting to work on right now.  I cut the top off and I'm going to add about two and half inches.  I also made a box to move the engine back so it sits about a half inch into the firewall.



#22 GRpufnstuf

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 08:56 PM

I'm curious to see the AC work. I don't think I'll ever need power steering unless I get some crazy track day suspension alignment going.
But AC is nice

There is a kit for roadster SR swaps that relocates and mounts a smaller Alt. Might be worth investigation

Have you considered Acura NSX electric power steering? Am I making that up?
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.

'73 620 "Olive"

#23 hosestop@msn.com

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 08:47 AM

The motor was all stock , never split motor and trans, stock alt. real short belt to pull in  ,did not cut firewall and left x member and mounts on chassis all stock ,cut motor side mounts and re-created with plates about 1 " back mounting holes and yes slid over 5/8s to right and trans x member also, and boxed in you can see L.side in pic. give up on power steering drives fine with 235x40x18s   ,just my 2cts , like top mount will make so no slide to right side. AC should not be very hard,Hit with email for more info if want to.



#24 orangie

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:37 AM

Not so worried about power steering right now. It does change my choice of wheels up front. With manual steering I want to keep the front to 205s. I think the rack and pinion I'm putting in can be upgraded with a piston assist. It's a Sweet 16.5 rack. Seriously, the manufacturer's name is Sweet.

#25 hosestop@msn.com

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 10:28 AM

Hey what's up ? keep posting your project ! it will keep moving fwd. also what pump for fuel ? I use 280zx with factory mount if you find one in JY. and 5/16 line on stocker turbo, come on Orangie , I also am trying to finish one ! 610.



#26 orangie

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 02:10 PM

Not sure what I'm doing for a fuel pump.  I know I don't like external fuel pumps.  They're noisy.  I'm also not a fan of fuel surge tanks.  It's a patch.  I'm looking for a fuel injection tank from either a later truck or I may opt to have Rock Valley Auto fabricate a custom stainless steel tank with an "in tank" pump. something like a Walbro 255.  That's pretty far off in the distance yet.  I'm pulling the body off to restore the rest of the frame and installing a Dana 44 (which still needs to be narrowed) and that will come after I figure out the rack and pinion steering and moving the transmission tunnel up 2 1/2 inches.



#27 hosestop@msn.com

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 08:50 AM

Just thought I'd throw that out there ! I have  had walbro on a car and had to run a regulator  ,with stock  zx 90psi. you can leave off,  and factory regulator handles all that its pushes , also truck has not ever lost suction with external pump ,my car does if has less than 1/8 tank  and I have a couple different surge tanks in mind , sounds like you are going a bit out there on more performance than I do , I like rear end idea and wanted to go there with buddies red truck , but he spent too much having Rays wheels made six lug , I do more stock motors and only go( T28 555 inj if cust needs moar). like s15.they run fine and still have bottom end power for street .



#28 orangie

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 05:57 PM

Well the trans tunnel is just about complete.  A word of caution, don't weld longer than a quarter inch stich.  That stock sheet metal is really thin and warps easily.  I have a couple of welds about an inch long and it flattened the tunnel a little in that area.  It's not real obvious and I'm going to try something different with this truck.  I want to spray a bedliner on the floor so small warps won't be noticeable anyway.

 

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#29 BlackBird620

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 08:32 PM

Well the trans tunnel is just about complete. A word of caution, don't weld longer than a quarter inch stich. That stock sheet metal is really thin and warps easily. I have a couple of welds about an inch long and it flattened the tunnel a little in that area. It's not real obvious and I'm going to try something different with this truck. I want to spray a bedliner on the floor so small warps won't be noticeable anyway.

9ebz.jpg

n085.jpg


Thanks for the info will come in handy when I start doing the floors in mine have to redo my trans tunnel and drivers side floor.

#30 mrbigtanker

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 12:09 PM

Well the trans tunnel is just about complete.  A word of caution, don't weld longer than a quarter inch stich.  That stock sheet metal is really thin and warps easily.  I have a couple of welds about an inch long and it flattened the tunnel a little in that area.  It's not real obvious and I'm going to try something different with this truck.  I want to spray a bedliner on the floor so small warps won't be noticeable anyway.

 

9ebz.jpg

 

n085.jpg

Pep Boys has a bed liner called Herculiner,its cheap you can roll it on to.A gallon of it costs like 90.00 with the roller and it works real well.



#31 WallRocket

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 01:32 PM

NIce! We have similar set up! I have to cut my floor out as well.

 

Good idea with the ac, and powersteering. keep in mind, the factory steering bar thing does not fit as well. So this "upgrade" should be looked into when swaping sr20det.  I had to run a external wastegate to clear it.



#32 orangie

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 08:23 PM

I'm going to probably have to run an external waste gate as well.  I'm using a top mount turbo manifold and there is no room for hooking up the internal bypass. 



#33 WallRocket

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 07:29 AM

I just cut a hole into the factory manifold and heat sheild, brazed in a pipe, and welded on a 32mm flange. DONE!



#34 hosestop@msn.com

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 08:46 AM

You can mount stock waste gate with stock rod to head where two holes are , you need to re-weld mount to diaphragm , I usually get a 6 oz. cup full of water and submerge diaphragm and weld the part out of water to homemade slotted bracket , if you want near stock system ,runs fine for street car.[url=http://s1183.photobu..._2027.jpg.html]104_2027.jpg[

#35 orangie

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 01:19 PM

Who's intake manifold is that?  The linkage on the turbo of my car sits just about on the valve cover and my turbo is farther back with  a lightly rotated angle so the intake of the turbo points  towards the left headlight.



#36 hosestop@msn.com

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 02:45 PM

The ex. is some Ebay cast one , log type semi like stock for a t3/4 , that I welded adapter for T28/25 stock turbos at a slight angle (fits 610 and truck I believe ,not 510 ,too close), I did not want a plate on waste gate on bottom of manifold to come loose so I welded a plug in it , forever will need internal wastegate T28 type.Also got fake intake local here polished ..[url=http://s1183.photobu...683-1.jpg.html]104_1683-1.jpg

#37 orangie

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 08:49 PM

Got a new rack from Chassis works and this one looks like it's going to work.  Still have some issues to iron out.  The steering angle is high, but it feels okay (no binding).  The column slopes at 22 degrees and the link to the rack slopes at 51 degrees, so something like 29 degrees which like the limit for that style universal.  Clearances are tight by the u-joint  and the pinion part of the rack.

 

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#38 orangie

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 07:20 PM

The mount for the rack and pinion is done.    There was no point in making a really beefy mount since the crossmemeber is so dinky.  I think if it was a power rack I would have beefed up the whole crossmember and tied it to the frame. 

 

As far as the steering column goes,  I added an extension piece to the pinion to clear the engine better and that gave me clearance but it also made the steering angle just a shade steeper, my universal joint is binding.  That should be easy enough to remedy though.  There are double links that can handle about 60 degrees.

 

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#39 orangie

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 11:38 AM

Did you run this manifold in a 620?   I like using the stock wastegate, but I don't think that manifold would fit in the truck since the brake cylinders are closer.  I've seen another style manifold that pushes the turbo towards the front and rotated out that would probably work if you're not running a power steering pump.



You can mount stock waste gate with stock rod to head where two holes are , you need to re-weld mount to diaphragm , I usually get a 6 oz. cup full of water and submerge diaphragm and weld the part out of water to homemade slotted bracket , if you want near stock system ,runs fine for street car.[url=http://s1183.photobu..._2027.jpg.html]104_2027.jpg[



#40 orangie

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 08:37 PM

I landed up getting the cast style manifold.  It was actually cheaper than a Tial external was gate, but that meat having to make a custom downpipe.

5c9x.jpg

 

It's a tight fit, but not as bad as it seems in the picture.  I can can my finger tip in by the steering link, to the side of the engine there's about 3/4 of an inch and around the back about an inch to the firewall.

 

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Interior is just starting.  Tilt column in place and I landed up using three u-joints.  The mandated and mounting point and used a firewall mount pivot

 

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