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Futo Fab Rear camber/toe adjusters vs. slotted crossmember. Worth extra $$$?


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I know the Futo Fab's part allows for some toe adjustment, and from the looks of it maybe a little more play in your camber. For daily driving with some track time our autocross I don't know if it's worth the extra money and would like some thoughts of anyone that installed these. I don't "keeper" bolt to keep the car from slipping out of alignment from heavy driving unlike the Datsport model

 

 

ARCV5_adjuster_inner.jpg

 

So does anyone have some more insight into these options vs just slotting your own? 

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Japan Auto Engineering is working on their full adjustable crossmember. its in the intial stages but will be a full new part not a modified stock x-member. will have more room for the exhaust too.

 

Is there any pictures of the work in progress or price point? I'm hesitant to spend $280 for those brackets but if a new cross member is about the same price but that doesn't seem likely.

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hopefully around the 500 dollar range but it all depends on how cheap we can have the brackets cut out . no pics of the x-member as of yet to "protect" the design. after the prototype is tested, we have a local 510 owner that drifts his car that will be doing a month to 2 month bash on it, we will have it going into production.

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hopefully around the 500 dollar range but it all depends on how cheap we can have the brackets cut out . no pics of the x-member as of yet to "protect" the design. after the prototype is tested, we have a local 510 owner that drifts his car that will be doing a month to 2 month bash on it, we will have it going into production.

Yeah that's not going to be in my price range. If you were standing in your front yard, Looking over the crest of the earth, and pointed to the faintest tree. That would be about how much over budget that is. 

 

 

So if anyone has some insight into the futo fab design/real world experience, let me know!

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Byrons brackets look great, if I hadn't already done the Pentultimate crossmember I would have grabbed them. 

 

thoughtt I do have a question about them.  They just replace the inside mount, and leave the stock outside (near wheel mount) correct?  Bascially an upgraded "slotted" crossmember.  I know people talk about binding issues when doing the old DQ basic crossmember slot, so is it any different than with Byron brackets?  What's the advantage of Byron's brackets over say the Dime Quarterly Pentultimate Crossmember?

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Let me help with a little information here. The FutoFab brackets are Byron's brackets.

 

We sell them at the same price as Byron does, but with ussually quicker (and likely cheaper) US delivery because they are already in the US and don't have to cross the Canadian border. 2-3 days delivery time is typical to anywhere in the US.

 

These brackets were originally used on Specialty Engineering's racecars in Canada. Some design changes have been made to them since that time, but this basic design has been used sucessufully in racing for many years.

 

They work well with either the stock bushings or monoball replacements, do not use polyurethane bushings with these brackets. The brackets replace the inner trailing arm mount and you reuse the original unmodified outer mount,. When adjustment is made from stock position, the bushings need to be somewaht compliant because the "pivot" bolts are no longer aligned in a straight line. Polyurethane or any other stiff bushing material will not have enough distortion to absorb the misalignment and the suspension will bind.

 

Basically any rear camber/toe adjusting system where the pivot bolts are moved out of perfect alignment has the same problem.

 

Here is a link to detailed installation instructions.

http://www3.telus.net/byron510/meston_motorsports_003.htm

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I have a nice slotted cross member I will sell. It was done the DQ way and works well for a street car and maybe some autocrossing. 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50068-fs-wheels-and-more-wheels-5-sets-seats-2-sets-510-slotted-crossmember/

 

Up for sale is a 510 rear cross member that has been slotted to allow alignment adjustments. 
Clean crossmember. Slotting done properly. 
 
Fits 2 door and 4 door 510s from 68-73.
 
$150 plus shipping.
 
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email me at qwik510@aol.com
 
Thanks,
 
David

 

 

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Let me help with a little information here. The FutoFab brackets are Byron's brackets.

 

We sell them at the same price as Byron does, but with ussually quicker (and likely cheaper) US delivery because they are already in the US and don't have to cross the Canadian border. 2-3 days delivery time is typical to anywhere in the US.

 

These brackets were originally used on Specialty Engineering's racecars in Canada. Some design changes have been made to them since that time, but this basic design has been used sucessufully in racing for many years.

 

They work well with either the stock bushings or monoball replacements, do not use polyurethane bushings with these brackets. The brackets replace the inner trailing arm mount and you reuse the original unmodified outer mount,. When adjustment is made from stock position, the bushings need to be somewaht compliant because the "pivot" bolts are no longer aligned in a straight line. Polyurethane or any other stiff bushing material will not have enough distortion to absorb the misalignment and the suspension will bind.

 

Basically any rear camber/toe adjusting system where the pivot bolts are moved out of perfect alignment has the same problem.

 

Here is a link to detailed installation instructions.

http://www3.telus.net/byron510/meston_motorsports_003.htm

 

 

What's the advantage of this setup with rubber bushings or monoball replacements over the Pentultimate crossmember and polyurethane bushings?  I currently have a Pentultimate crossmember that really isn't "pretty" and needs to be cleaned up in the future and just trying to decide if it's better to just remove my Pentultimate parts and go with your/Byron's brackets?

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i dont understand the point in needing it adjustable once you get it dialed in its not gonna change thats personally why i like the slotted x member better cause once you get it aligned you can weld the washers in place and it wont come out of adjustment 

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i dont understand the point in needing it adjustable once you get it dialed in its not gonna change thats personally why i like the slotted x member better cause once you get it aligned you can weld the washers in place and it wont come out of adjustment 

 

Maybe if you just drive the car on the street... people who autocross and track their cars will be playing with the alignment until they get everything dialed in.  Seems silly to have to grind tack welds every time you want to make an adjustment.. and my alignment would go off every time I drove the car hard up in the hills.

 

My slotted crossmember wouldn't stop slipping so I had to tack the washers.  I ordered Byron's brackets from Futo Fab and problem solved, they have been working flawlessly.  My car has gone through a couple rear ride height changes and is in need of another alignment.  Won't be an issue for my alignment guy, all he has to do is loosen and tighten some bolts :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

A little help?  I just picked up a 510, after a 25 plus year lapse in judgment.  My first 510, in 1980, I had the rear end slotted....I had it done, didn't do myself.  Now, in possession of another car, I thought to myself, get it slotted.  No clue where to start.  Not many shops around these days to help a old man out.  Someone educate me as to the different ways / best way?  Thanks,

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  • 2 weeks later...

So no one has any experience with DatSport's setup?  Byron is a great guy, and I want to do business with him, but I want to make sure I get the setup that best suits me.  I've used a setup similar to the DatSport setup on my '75 Mini.  I loved it.  Super easy to adjust, and you can check adjustment before tightening everything up.  Any opinions?

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