Jump to content

Hello from a guy with a new (to me) 1200!


hynd5224

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

 Yes, I just tried to deal with them too. They are nice to deal with, just didn't have any of the parts I was looking for.

 

In case anyone wonders, according to them, no nissan dealer in the US has the below for a coupe:

Fuel tank (evapo)

Tach

Front seat belts (2pt)

filler hose (evapo)

Fuel sender

Ignition lock cylinder assembly

 

Oh well, it was worth a try right?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=488391&cc=1208854

 

buy the above - Im almost certain it's exactly the same as the 1200 lock set.I had one out of a 210 & 2 1200's & compared them, I dont think they're different at all.

Link to comment

I was looking to just buy the whole steering lock assembly. I can't figure out how to get the lock cylinder out.

 

Morrisun informed me that a 620 steering lock will bolt in place, just not look original. I'm thinking for 38 bucks that's not a bad option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-NISSAN-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-620-IGNITION-SWITCH-STARTER-KEYS-SET-/230883296150?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c1b78396&vxp=mtr

 

I've got a lot of work done on it, despite the lack of parts. I'll post some pics up later this eve.

Link to comment

Im telling ya the 1200 & 210 locksets are identical, buy it complete from RA.

 

I thought I had a picture of them side by side, I might be able to find one to show you but read this thread & compare the pic's to the one on RA.

 

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ignition_Switch

 

on the bench they're identical..... I say that with 98.999% certainty not 100% because it was 2 years ago when I compared them....

 

you have to drill into the screw heads & use an easyout to remove them, they're twist off security screws so no head

Link to comment
Im telling ya the 1200 & 210 locksets are identical, buy it complete from RA.

 

I thought I had a picture of them side by side, I might be able to find one to show you but read this thread & compare the pic's to the one on RA.

 

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ignition_Switch

 

on the bench they're identical..... I say that with 98.999% certainty not 100% because it was 2 years ago when I compared them....

 

you have to drill into the screw heads & use an easyout to remove them, they're twist off security screws so no head

I was originally getting confused on the 210/b210 difference.  :confused:   My bad! All clear now!

 

Got one ordered! It'll be nice to not have to pull the connector to shut my car off...

Link to comment

Got a lot of work done on my car, who has now been dubbed "Pokey" (Gumby's horse....).

 

Tore the rest of the dash out to fix some heater controls, decided to do some cleaning while I was in there. Everything was quite greasy, but I'm not sure where it came from. I'm not complaining though because grease means no rust! :thumbup:  I repainted the metal portion of the dash (where its seen) and picked up some black oxide button head socket caps to replace the No3 phillips that were in there. I didn't find them that fun to get out, allens should be easier. Armor all'ed the dash pad and started work on re-painting the plastic portion of the dash. I picked up some precision gray (duplicolor), some model paint, and some nice brushes. I plan to do the letters in silver and re-paint the color for the heater temperature control. You can see in the picture I started it, but it still sits unfinished.

 

IMAG0330_zps0f17fbec.jpg

 

IMAG0329_zpsaeda2c3f.jpg

 

IMAG0332_zps9a6ecf35.jpg

 

IMAG0333_zps6c36a61a.jpg

 

I also adjusted the valves, all the intake valves were tight and it now idles much better! Since I had the valve cover off, I decided to clean it up and send it to a buddy to have it powder coated. I'll post up some pics later this week when I get it back.

 

I did take a few pics of the rust in the floors that I will have to deal with at some point. This is the passenger side. Its a bit hard to take pics of the floor when its so close to the ground...

 

IMAG0335_zps859c8884.jpg

 

IMAG0334_zpsa1d1d93e.jpg

 

Can't wait to get it on the road!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Well its been a while since I've posted on here, but that's because I've been busy working on my 1200!  :thumbup: I've got it on the road again and hope to prove it reliable enough for daily driver status soon! It still needs a bit of carb tuning, but its getting there.

 

So what I've gotten done in the last almost 2 months - wow its been that long? Seems like I haven't even owned this thing that long! Time fly's when you work on your Datsun. Well I finished painting my dash and got it back together. It turned out great, but it took so much longer to do that I thought it would. The white lettering, silver edging, and the color in the heater temperature was all done with model paint. The main color was Nissan precision grey by duplicolor, I think it matched the factory color good, but the old dash was so faded I'm not really sure.

 

IMAG0347_zps5c376cc3.jpg

IMAG0348_zps4d016e28.jpg

IMAG0349_zpsa8320315.jpg

IMAG0358_zpsbce36b97.jpg

IMAG0359_zpscdbe9f12.jpg

IMAG0365_zps512f22ee.jpg

IMAG0366_zps32f2ea24.jpg

 

I also painted my new ignition lock cylinder to match the colors of the factory one.

IMAG0356_zps69f85ef1.jpg

IMAG0357_zpsa41c62e7.jpg

 

I got my valve cover back from powder coating (a long time ago). He wasn't able to do a two-tone (white letters) like I wanted because that would have required a custom mask and more cheddar than I was willing to shell out.

 

IMAG0361_zpsb5ca206a.jpg

 

I got a fuel tank from Doug that was in pretty good shape, I had my buddy powder coat the outside, then spent an entire weekend doing a KBS fuel tank repair kit for the inside. It turned out OK, functional but not the best looking sealer. That was my fault though because I made the mistake of rotating it too late in the cure process and causing drips to form and stay. Still seals though!

 

IMAG0375_zps48b396b8.jpg

IMAG0384_zps63d7e24e.jpg

IMAG0389_zps0b306c8a.jpg

 

 

I rebuilt my sending unit as well. I used parts from two of them to make one functioning one. Electrical contact cleaner worked great on the wiper and resistor. I scrubbed up most of the other parts in the parts washer, added a ground lug (since I knew it wouldn't grab ground the the powder coat) and painted the top cap. Works like new! I purchased a new o-ring for the sending unit as well. If anyone is wondering they are a 4mm cross section by 52mm ID o-ring. Somewhat standard as far as metric o-rings go. I ended up buying a pack of 25 so if someone needs one PM me and I'll send it for free. They seriously cost less than a postage stamp each.

 

IMAG0385_zpsb7adb831.jpg

 

With the new tank install, I replaced all of my rubber lines. FYI there is about 20 ft of 1/4" rubber fuel line in a coupe with EVAPO. That's a lot of tubing for a little car...   I had to make a new fuel filler tube since the old one was shot and the molded hose was NLA. Two mandrel bends, a 90 degree and a 45 degree, out off 1.75" steel tubing, some 1.75" ID fuel filler hose purchased from the auto parts store, and some hose clamps did the trick. A 30 degree bend MIGHT have worked better, but the 45 did the trick. Tight fit.

 

IMAG0386_zps663d2ca3.jpg

IMAG0392_zps1e71bcad.jpg

IMAG0393_zps1a93567f.jpg

IMAG0394_zps145da63f.jpg

IMAG0395_zps5d3afb30.jpg

IMAG0397_zpsbd107541.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment

I just may steal your idea on the dash paint.....looks the goods.  I currently have a shell that is almost ready to go for blasting and paint.  One day I will get around to updating my build thread.  Filler tube looks the goods too!

Link to comment

Thanks Kelmo! The fresh painted dash makes for a nice view when you're driving. Not updating your build thread just means you're too busy making progress right??  ;)

 

A few more details for you on how I painted the dash... First I painted the 3 colors for the heater temperature with model paint (several coats). Then I masked that and the black areas that taper into the gauges and painted the precision grey. I used a plastic adhesion promoter (made by duplicolor as well) as a primer, it seemed to work good. Then I painted the white on the lettering and the silver on the edges with model paint, it took about a week and a half of evenings and tons of patience. Finally I put a matte clear over they entire part, that way everything had the same sheen and it protected the color. 

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Your 1200 is coming along very well, glad to see the gas tank sealed and powder coated. So you have igniton, gas-restored gas tank-like your solution to the very hard to find rubber fuel filler hose, may want a grommet in the bulkhead where the steel passes through-fuel line cut down one side and used as a grommet works fairly well. Have you taken it for a ride?? If not what's next??

Link to comment

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/index.html

 

Check this link out,if you have not already,I have delt with this guy before and he is great to work with.

 

 

Hope this helps

Thanks! I think I've stumbled upon them during my parts searching before. They've got quite a bit of parts on there.

 

Your 1200 is coming along very well, glad to see the gas tank sealed and powder coated. So you have igniton, gas-restored gas tank-like your solution to the very hard to find rubber fuel filler hose, may want a grommet in the bulkhead where the steel passes through-fuel line cut down one side and used as a grommet works fairly well. Have you taken it for a ride?? If not what's next??

Good suggestion on the fuel line for use as a grommet, I think I'll be using that. Well I drove it around town for about a week, then decided to try for driving it to work (about 55-60 miles of highway) and it got a bit hotter than I was comfortable with. I had to stop once on the way in, then I found out it made some antifreeze disappear when I finally got to work. I'm not sure if it burned it or pushed it out through the cap, but it didn't go to the oil thank goodness. I also found out it boils gas out of the carb when you sit at a stoplight - no phenolic spacer and the first time I've ever had it in traffic. I had to stop on the way home too, but didn't loose any antifreeze. Seeing as the outside temps were cool for this region (85ish in the morning and 75ish that night) I'm thinking it needs a good cleaning of the cooling system or maybe just a bigger radiator. I'm not sure yet. Oh and I found out how far my speedo was off, in order to keep up with someone in a new car with the cruise set at 67 I had to keep my speedo just below 80! 

 

After that experience I've been debating swapping in an L-series motor just because it sure is a lot of work to do 65 for that a12, but maybe mine is just really tired. To do 65 the secondaries almost have to kick in, a little bit of wind or hill and you have to be in the secondaries. I haven't done anything to it since though, I've been in the middle of an unexpected move, but hopefully I'll be back to working on it in a month or two. For now its just an around town car  :thumbup:

Link to comment

Check your timing and make sure your valaves are all adjusted to spec. this made tons of free power on my car when I first got it home and brought it back to the factory settings/ Good luck and hope it helps. Dash and tank look great.

Timing is at ~7 degrees BTDC static (idle with the vaccum line unhooked) last time I checked. Dwell is about 49-50 if I remember correctly, I dialed it in to the middle of the range given in the books I've got. I adjusted the valves once (to 0.014" I think cold), but it sounds like one or two might be a bit loose. All the exhaust were very tight when I got it. It does throw out a decent blue smoke cloud when you fire it up, but it clears up in no time and doesn't smoke any more. I think it'd be interesting to do a compression test on it.

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Well I actually got around to the compression test today. One cylinder is a bit low, but not too bad. 160-170-170-115psi (1-2-3-4). #4 defiantly has some issue but its not as bad as I was expecting.

 

I also got around to putting a new alternator in. The old one died and I decided to upgrade while I had to fix it. I got a good deal on a used Delco 7si alternator (out of a mercury marine boat) and it basically bolted in. I had to use a spacer on the rear tab but the pulley alignment was perfect! I still have yet to buy the proper connector for it, but it makes good power! 70 amp internally regulated and not much bigger than the 35 amp hitachi. If anyone is interested I'll do a full write up on the install, I took lots of pictures while I was doing it and I have the part numbers as well...

 

My main issues now are cooling (haven't done anything about that yet) and my transmission output shaft seal. I think I've decided to go the Sentra/Pulsar radiator method like is shown here: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Radiator_Upgrades I just need to get around to calling some junkyards. Around here they close at about 1pm on Saturday and are not open Sundays, how they get any business is a mystery to me.

 

My transmission output shaft seal actually slid out of the transmission, I can push it in and pull it out by hand. This doesn't seem normal... I haven't decided if I'm going to try a new seal or just use some black silicone adhesive to keep it in there. If anybody has worked on this seal before, how tight should it fit?

 

Pic:

IMAG0436_zps7c36336a.jpg

It could use about 1" shorter belt

Link to comment
  • 11 months later...

I'm gonna resurrect my old thread, update some progress I've made on the car.

 

I did some work to it last fall, fixed the transmission output shaft seal, stuffed a sentra radiator in it, and put a b310 distributor in it. The new distributor made a world of difference. It seems the mechanical advance was sticking on the old distributor and the vacuum advance was leaking - big surprise. Then I parked it for the whole winter until I started driving it this spring. I had to put a tach in it since the second speedo I got died, those old clutches just seem to dry up and stick. So now I just run by engine rpm. GPS says 4000 rpm is about 62. Add 300 for 67 and subtract 300 for 57, that covers most of the driving I do. In the last few weeks I've made it my daily driver, commuting ~120 miles a day. The sentra radiator is awesome, running in 100 deg weather and I only kick on the electric fans if i'm stuck in traffic or drafting someone. I've been logging my fuel mileage, averaging about 26.5 MPG and about 500-600 MPQ (miles per quart of oil!  :rofl: she burns a little oil...). I've gotten a high of about 28.4 and a low of about 23.5, not bad for an old tired motor I'd say.

 

Long term it will get rebuilt, but I've still got parts to find. Plus it gets better fuel mileage than my truck.  :thumbup:

 

 

Oh and just cause, a snow covered Datto:

20140209_125625_zpsytkge94g.jpg

Link to comment

The distributor is for a 1980. I bought a reman one straight from rockauto, they list it under a 1980 Nissan 210 1.4L I4. I also bought cap, rotor, & coil to go with it, 165 shipped.

 

I was a little disappointed in my fuel mileage, I really expected it to be into the 30's. Fuel mileage was my "excuse" for buying the car, but there is room for improvement. Rebuild the motor, 5 speed, EFI, and lower it a bit to reduce drag, should get it up there.

 

I'll do a write up on the alternator when I get a chance, I have to dig through my notes and photos and remember what I did & find part numbers. If you get the right alternator it drops in with only a spacer and some wiring. I had to source a different pulley for mine.

Link to comment

What year b310 was the distributor out of?

 

All B310s use the same distributor, and they all pop right into a 1200.  :thumbup:

 

The distributor is for a 1980. I bought a reman one straight from rockauto, they list it under a 1980 Nissan 210 1.4L I4.

 

When did you buy it? When I looked last week they didn't have any. Said I had to send mine in to be rebuilt...     :sneaky:

Link to comment

All B310s use the same distributor, and they all pop right into a 1200.  :thumbup:

X2. It's an easy swap, you just have to cut the distributor hold down bracket a little to make the late a series distributor fit on an early block. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Using_Newer_Distributor

 

When did you buy it? When I looked last week they didn't have any. Said I had to send mine in to be rebuilt...     :sneaky:

I got mine last october... I work slow
Link to comment
  • 3 years later...

I'm gonna resurrect and old thread.... Almost 3.5 years and I haven't gotten much done. I did a few odds and ends maintenance stuff - got some new shoes on it. I ordered all the parts for doing bigger front brakes a few months ago - still haven't gotten to doing it!  :rofl:  I just need to win the lotto so I can spend more time working on it!

 

Once I figure out what to use to replace photobucket I'll throw up some pics of the new wheel/tire combo, looks way better with the dark grey steelies IMO - never been a fan of the OE hub caps....

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.