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Datsun 620 Lowering Shocks


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#1 DATSTON

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:01 AM

hows it going ratsuners.  i posted this in the 620 section, but thought i would post it here as well in case i could get some more answers/opinions.

 

my 4" lowering blocks arrived and i will be lowering my truck over the weekend (hopefully).  i am thinking about ordering some toxic lowering shocks for my truck also.  however, i am not sure about which shocks to order.  the descriptions aren't really mentioning much, but they do list the extended length as well as the collapsed lengths.  

 

here is where it gets confusing.

 

 

this is listed as the 4" lowering shocks.

http://www.summitrac...iew/make/nissan

 

Extended Length (in):18.660 in.
 
Collapsed Length (in):11.520 in.
 
this is listed as the 2" lowering shocks.
Extended Length (in):13.350 in.
 
Collapsed Length (in):9.010 in.
 
so why are the 2" lowering shocks shorter than the 4" lowering shocks?  which shocks should i be ordering for the front and rear?  thanks for all the help.


#2 DATSTON

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:50 AM

found this old thread http://community.rat...owering shocks, but Sickdrift isnt on the forums anymore.  at least he hasnt logged in since 2010.

 

so from this, im guessing i shouldnt buy toxic shocks.  i also found out that 4" lowering blocks may not be enough for the ride height im trying to achieve.  4x4 720 leaf springs may be the way to go, but i cant seem to find any.  as for the front, reindexing the torsion bar and ordering a set of monroe pinto shocks is the way to go.



#3 nismosilvia

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 12:57 PM

I'm a Tacoma Guy when it comes to trucks so I have some experience with lowering a truck but not to the extreme levels you want to go. Toxics are crap shocks. Go with agx monomax. 4x4 leafs and blocks will lower your probably going to have to do a c notch. Seriously why not buy a car though... as low as you want go the truck wont be a truck just a glorified pogo stick. Do they even have rear sway bars for the 720?

#4 DATSTON

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:35 PM

hey thanks for the suggestions.  i know where you're coming from, but im not you or any others on this forum.  we all have different tastes in cars, styling, the way you dress and etc.  different strokes for different folks pretty much.  some people may be a little more extreme and some may be a little more subtle.  i have piercings and tats all over my body and some may think its extreme, but i feel like im myself with it.

 

as for the suggestion in regards to getting a car instead, i already have one.  i daily drive a 370z as of now, but would like to build up the 620 to daily drive.  it probably isnt ideal to buy a 620, slam it, then daily it.  but it wasnt ideal for me to get a 370z to daily drive in the first place since i dont have the space i need and it hurts to put miles on it, but it sure is fun to drive.  i guess im just not a really practical person.  i wont be hauling any heavy loads with the 620, but will be using it to pick up parts or just to have in case i need to throw anything in the back.  i also bought the 620 so i can fit my dog in there.  it became impossible to fit my 70lb pitbull in the passenger seat of my 370z.  and who am i kidding, i love the 620.  there shouldnt be any more reason needed than that alone.  

 

what i'm trying to achieve isn't too extreme by any means, not by my standards anyways.  i just want it to be lowered to a certain extent and leave it that way.  im not trying to lay frame or anything.  i am also not trying to cheap out on any parts to amke this happen.  im trying to slam it, yes, but im also trying to do it right, with the right parts.  im completely new to cars like this and thats why im posting all these questions.  im use to just buying a set of coilovers, install them, dial them down and call it a day.

 

essentially this is what im trying to achieve.

 

oHL6rBG.jpg

 

looks really clean to me and doesnt seem too extreme at all.  maybe im just sick in the head?  who knows?  but it seems right to me.

 

not trying to step on anyones toes by the way, i just felt the need to elaborate on what im trying to do.  there seems to be a lot of people that dont agree with others just because people arent doing what they expect them to do.

 

why buy a rusted datsun 620 when you can get a 90s toyota pickup in better condition in the first place for about the same price?



#5 Dawa

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:39 PM

im on pinto shocks up front with smaller bumpstops and 3" blocks in the rear. bought 4" blocks just in case and ended up selling them. the 3" blocks brought my leafs/U's too close to the ground as it is, something to consider. you can run smaller wheels & tires to lower the truck considerably (my initial wheel/tire set up lowered me almost 2" all around, on top of everything else i was doing to go lower) but youll be stuck with a bunch of fender gap. i couldnt find the 4x4 leafs locally either so do like me and post a wtb in the classifieds and someone with a 4x4 in their junk yard will go pick & pull em for you.

tumblr_mbrhdmDS2p1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

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#6 nismosilvia

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:46 PM

Right on the money different strokes for sure lol. A slammed 620 is definitely different. I hope you plan on using steel blocks though. Qa1 camaro coilovers should work on the rear. You can remove or flip leaves to to get different drops.

#7 DATSTON

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:55 PM

thanks for the suggestions and i hope i didnt offend anyone, it wasnt my intentions to.  i picked up some aluminum blocks by DJM through summit racing.  would steel blocks be more ideal?  ive heard of flipping the leafs or rearching them, but i want the 4x4 720 leafs to get a stiffer ride.  being bouncy and that low wouldnt be good.



#8 Dawa

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:00 PM

the blocks i got were by djm as well. i sold em to radim and i think he installed them immediately. hit him up with any questions in regards to issues. i cant remember if they were aluminum or steel but looking back on it i really dont see what the problem would be in running aluminum. as long as the U's are torqued to spec, the aluminum blocks arent going to give out or crush, so....

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#9 DATSTON

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:13 PM

sounds good, and while we're at it, what are the proper torque specs for the ubolts?  i need to get myself one of those datsun 620 bibles.



#10 nismosilvia

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 06:44 PM

I dont don't know what your location is datson but there's a Guy down in socal that's a mini truck ledgend. He makes excellent steel blocks with pitch angles and 4link setups. I dont know if he's only doing Tacoma stuff but it never hurts to ask. http://www.streetaco...m/contact.html. you can probably drop about an inch by just pulling the overload leaf thats the bottom one that's straight. A sway bar will do wonders as well as traction bars

#11 datzenmike

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 06:52 PM

what i'm trying to achieve isn't too extreme by any means, not by my standards anyways.  i just want it to be lowered to a certain extent and leave it that way.  im not trying to lay frame or anything.  i am also not trying to cheap out on any parts to amke this happen.  im trying to slam it, yes, but im also trying to do it right, with the right parts.  im completely new to cars like this and thats why im posting all these questions.  im use to just buying a set of coilovers, install them, dial them down and call it a day.

 

essentially this is what im trying to achieve.

 

oHL6rBG.jpg

 

looks really clean to me and doesnt seem too extreme at all.  maybe im just sick in the head?  who knows?  but it seems right to me.

 

not trying to step on anyones toes by the way, i just felt the need to elaborate on what im trying to do.  there seems to be a lot of people that dont agree with others just because people arent doing what they expect them to do.

 

Everyone is different, no one is offended. As long as you do it carefully and it's safe, fly at 'r. I don't 'get it' but that my problem. Your truck look nice.



#12 Zeusimo

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:07 PM

Making A 620 That Low ^^^ Is ALOT Of Work
Don't Get 4X4 Springs, They Just End Up Making A Boucy Ride
I've Read Somewhere That Lowering Blocks Is Bad For Acle Wrap..?
My Front Tires Would Rub On The Battery Tray
And The Rear Was 7"

Toxic Shocks Are Junk, Pinto Shocks Are The Same As 620..
I Don't Reccomend You Lower More Than 3" All Around
Unless You Do It Right

For That Reason I Ditched Leafs And Torsions
Currently Building A 4 Link With Nova Coilovers In The Rear
The Front Is Much More Difficult
Requiring Custom Upper And Lower Control Arms Because Of Alignment Issues
I'm Just Stupid 18yo Kid,
WITH A DATSUN!!!

#13 Zeusimo

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:21 PM

Also Tubbing The Front End Is A Must To Go Any Lower Than 6"
I'm Just Stupid 18yo Kid,
WITH A DATSUN!!!

#14 DATSTON

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:45 AM

I dont don't know what your location is datson but there's a Guy down in socal that's a mini truck ledgend. He makes excellent steel blocks with pitch angles and 4link setups. I dont know if he's only doing Tacoma stuff but it never hurts to ask. http://www.streetaco...m/contact.html. you can probably drop about an inch by just pulling the overload leaf thats the bottom one that's straight. A sway bar will do wonders as well as traction bars

hey thanks for the suggestions.  im going to lowering the truck with what i have now and work my way from there.  i think thats the best approach as of now instead of trying to accomplish everything at once.  ill save his info though, just in case i need help going any further.



#15 DATSTON

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:49 AM

Making A 620 That Low ^^^ Is ALOT Of Work
Don't Get 4X4 Springs, They Just End Up Making A Boucy Ride
I've Read Somewhere That Lowering Blocks Is Bad For Acle Wrap..?
My Front Tires Would Rub On The Battery Tray
And The Rear Was 7"

Toxic Shocks Are Junk, Pinto Shocks Are The Same As 620..
I Don't Reccomend You Lower More Than 3" All Around
Unless You Do It Right

For That Reason I Ditched Leafs And Torsions
Currently Building A 4 Link With Nova Coilovers In The Rear
The Front Is Much More Difficult
Requiring Custom Upper And Lower Control Arms Because Of Alignment Issues

yea im getting a lot of mixed opinions on how to lower my 620.  ill just slap the 4" blocks in the rear, mess with the front torsion bar and see what itll do.  ill figure out how to get it lower afterwards.  i really dont want to go with bags.



#16 Dawa

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 11:30 PM

blocks are bad for axle wrap, but i dont think youll ever encounter a problem with that on an N/A L series engine.


tumblr_mbrhdmDS2p1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

lets all be nice to each other.

 

zilvia: dawagarage, 96 s14, 90 z32

clublexus: properd 97 sc300