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My First Datsun Resto - 1972 521


4perrev

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Great, thanks for the help. I'm still trying to figure out all the little intricacies that go along with this. I bought the L20 so I could have some more power and also change out to an internally regulated alternator. Just read so many bad things with the old system. Thought I'd give her some more power to run the alternator. Didn't think an electric fan system would compensate for the alternator upgrade.

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So I took the head off today. The engine looks good inside all around, but the head has a crack in one cylinder. Is this fixable or can I use the 210 head off my L16?

 

Head_zps97ea208f.jpg

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Damn dude, you're making some nice headway with this!  :thumbup:   Looks like a great foundation to start with too.  Nice find and great progress.

Thanks man. I thought I was good with finding the engine until the head was bad. Considered welding the crack, but it is too close to the valve seat and I would have to have it all machined. So it's probably easier / cheaper to just find another head. I need to get the painted frame pictures up here, but I have to wait until the suns out to snap some. Coming soon!!

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Try expanding the horizons a little and put a wanted ad in the classifieds.  There are quite a few of us up in the Snohomish area, someone is bound to probably have something.... they just might not see you asking for it in here. 

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Had a bit of time after work and did a little rocker panel repair. When I bought the truck, I thought they were all good, but a closer inspection said not really. I figure the body filler will take care of the ruffles? Here is the drivers side:

 

SGWrVEX.jpg

Edited by 4perrev
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Met Datsun Frank today and bought a U67 head to replace my cracked W58 (thanks Frank-the 510 is coming along well)! Can't wait to start the port and polish job (hopefully tomorrow). Also did some picking after I picked up the head and found myself a Weber. The steering wheel is not the 521original, but it's still all good. As a bonus, I found a wiper motor timer delay unit. This thing is cool and will go good with the old digital tach I have.

 

0CeEnnr.jpg

 

uIOnVVt.jpg

 

 

Edited by 4perrev
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Thanks. It seems like every step I take forward requires a 1/2 step back to find the right part. I did figure out that the U67 head requires longer head bolts then the W58, so I'll have to do some research on this. Talked to a machine shop yesterday and it will be $325.00 for a hot tank, magna-flux, bore and honing. Doesn't seem so bad. Any recommendations for pistons and rings?

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I don't believe that is true, the W58 should be the same as any other L block head, as far as I know anyway.

I put a W53 head on my 1980 L20b which had a W58 head, I didn't change anything except the exhaust manifold, I used the same headbolts.

I now use ARP stud kits, they are the best out there as far as I am concerned.

 

The only engine block I have ever bored out is my Z22, I had it bored to 89mm for stock Z24 pistons and put all the L block hardware on it to create a LZ23, I have never bored a L20b block myself, I have always found low mileage blocks to put my custom heads on.

 

I believe that you can use a round port exhaust manifold on a square port head, but one must consider that they didn't come that way from the factory, so there are likely going to be issues down the road, but on the other hand, it may last for years without any issues.

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So I looked at the head again today. Apparently I was a little more tired yesterday than I thought. The head bolts are right because they're not all the same size. Man I feel stupid here! 

 

The engine I pulled said 68,xxx on the odometer. Not sure if that's 100 or 200k. I need to find a bore micrometer to check the cylinders to see how far they are, but would like to have it all done so I can start with a fresh motor and not worry about it over time. Plus it would probably be a good idea since I'm going to port and polish the head. Any ideas on where or what pistons to use?

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So it's time, Gotta get my back fixed. So monday, going in for the procedure. Disc Biacuplasty. Guess the project Sunkist will have to go on hold for about a month. Here is the fun to be had:

 

gqK3Au1.jpg

Edited by 4perrev
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Kirden, sounds good. I'll see if he PM's me or writes on the post here. If not, then, man there yours. Don't have a drivers side door handle do ya? Mine has a broken inner nub, so I can't open the door from the outside.

I had that problem in my 620 you should hit a napa up and see about matching it or any other auto retail

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Decided to do some engine bay painting before I'm out for 4 weeks. This is part 1 of the engine:

 

z2_zps6120a746.jpg

 

z5_zps39d3c9c3.jpg

 

And did the drivers side inner fender:

 

z1_zps2d17cfe2.jpg

 

I also promised some pics of the frame once painted, here they are:

 

ZpGqNXY.jpg

 

r7KyM6a.jpg

 

199Njgn.jpg

 

vDoORbD.jpg

 

Sure do love that Chassis Saver paint. It's great, but wow does it get you dizzy if your not wearing a respirator or have fans blowing!!

Edited by 4perrev
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well after the first week and a half on my a$$ after back procedure, I'm jonesin to get back to the truck. Hate sitting here when the days are nice. At least I have the Stanley Cup finals to watch!

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  • 3 weeks later...

decided it was time to get back to it. Little Miss Sunkist got new floors today. I'm no welding expert, but I think they turned out pretty good. Still need to do a little more on the passengers side. Either way, it's good to be back on the project! 

 

driverfloor_zps237d3fc8.jpg

 

passfloor_zps2591a010.jpg

 

bothfloors_zpsec2473a3.jpg

 

Comments, critiques or ideas?

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