Lowandslow Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I have am looking for a new valance for my truck. Currently it has a tow bar in the front but it is going to be removed in the next week.My truck nowI'm looking for one like thisIs it a certain type of year that has this front valance that scoops lower or is it an aftermarket option?As for the Weber question, what do the numbers 32/36 and Outlaw 38 mean? Is it just the model number or does it have to do with the performance of it? Quote Link to comment
Scurrvy Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I'm looking for a valance like that as well. Hopefully they are easy to come by. Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 The 32/36 is how big the carburetor is. For a 32/36 the primary is the 32 and the secondary is the 36. Same as 38 but the 38/38 is synchronous which means they both open at the same time. 38 primary, 38 secondary. I have a 38 Weber on my z24 and I'm impressed. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Discounting the bent to hell bumper, that's a stock 720 King Cab valance, at least for 83-84. Anything bigger and lower is aftermarket. Smaller ones, without the lip, were common on standard cabs and earlier trucks. 720s had a lot of sheet metal variations. Quote Link to comment
Lowandslow Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 So is having the primary and secondary the same better? Or does it depend on the application and rpm range that you're going for? I've notice that not all 720's are built the same, specially when it comes to body parts. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 It depends on application. Having barrels the same size or different isn't really the issue, but having progressive vs synchronous does make a difference. Progressive works better in everyday driving, but you can get used to synchronous. I have both on L20B 620s. Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Well it all comes down to preference. Do you want better mpg? Or do you want better performance? Yes, not all 720s are built the same. The 720 model had many different upgradeable stock options and most are interchangeable. The differences between earlier 720's and later 720's are things like a 1 piece to 2 piece driveshaft, different tranny lengths, carburetor setup, L20, Z22 and Z24 engines, the earlier 720's had an inside panel in the bed, bed hooks, 2 different size side view mirrors, chrome trim on the windshield rubber, tach and clock gauges, oil pressure and battery voltage gauges, door panels, different size center consoles, passenger tray glove box, A/C options, different A/C line routing, different grills, different nissan emblems, bucket seats, different steering wheel options, although earlier 720 dashboards were different (1980-1982), hood vents ('81-'82), different rear end options, wheel options (ST Wheels), different front bumpers, it goes on and on. That's just off the top of my head. My 720 is a daily with 38 weber synchronous. Quote Link to comment
Scurrvy Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Discounting the bent to hell bumper, that's a stock 720 King Cab valance, at least for 83-84. Anything bigger and lower is aftermarket. Smaller ones, without the lip, were common on standard cabs and earlier trucks. 720s had a lot of sheet metal variations. Mine's being to shit, then I was like mine doesn't look like this! But they sell plastic oe replacements online If I can't find a metal one. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I have am looking for a new valance for my truck. Currently it has a tow bar in the front but it is going to be removed in the next week. My truck now I'm looking for one like this Is it a certain type of year that has this front valance that scoops lower or is it an aftermarket option? As for the Weber question, what do the numbers 32/36 and Outlaw 38 mean? Is it just the model number or does it have to do with the performance of it? I am sorry to tell you this, but you are going to have to deal with some issues unless you use everything connected to the sheet metal you want to use. The 1980 datsun 720 is a unique truck, the frame bumper mounts are 1980 only, the headlight buckets are one position only on the 1980. Here are the issues, 1 The sheet metal you want to use is for the later grills that are about an inch lower than the 1980-82 models, so if you use your grill, there will be a big gap between the bottom of the grill and the sheet metal. 2 The later grills are lower by about an inch on the 83+ 720s(the sheet metal you want to use), so are the headlights, so that means you will need to re-position the headlights an inch lower to use the later grill, as I said, the 1980 does not have the option to bolt them in lower, so you will have to fab in a new mount position, I believe the 81 and above have two sets of mount holes as nissan thought ahead, 1 high set(early) and one lower set(later), but I could be wrong on this, I do know that the 84 model has headlight mounts for early or late model front ends. 3 If you go with the later grill, along with re-positioning the headlights, you will need the side marker lights and the later bumper if you want it to look proper, you will also have to bend inner fender sheet metal to get the later bumper mount brackets to bolt in, if you can get them in there at all, as I said, a true 80 is a unique 720 model. I am sure there is more that I have forgotten, but it has been several years since I dealt with this subject. Here is a 84 with an early grill, but an 84 bumper, see the painted space between the grill and bumper, that would not normally be there with an 84 grill. I see this sheet metal has a sort of scoop to it, maybe the 81 or 82 has sheet metal close to what your looking for. Also in the photo below, that lower sheet metal looks modified to me, I don't recall seeing anything like that on a stock 720, but I could be wrong. Quote Link to comment
Lowandslow Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I've come to realize that the 1980 is a very unique truck as I'm having trouble finding some body parts. Thanks for all the info Wayno, after all that I think I'm just going to stick with the front valence I have right now. It is too much work in m opinion just for a little difference in the appearance. As for the picture you posted, is that an 80 with an 84 bumper? Because I noticed my truck has that gap. As for the Weber I found an article on the 32/36 vs the 38 and it stated that the 38 was for a 6 cyl, at least on the article I read. Is it possible to over-gas the engine? Like will a bigger carb run more gas than the engine can use? Or can it be tuned down to where it will run good in all RPM's without flooding. Quote Link to comment
Lowandslow Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Here's the website that I got the information from. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm I'm very unfamiliar with carburetors as I am used to injectors and ecu's and o2 sensors adjusting the fuel mixture. My previous car was a 90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX so no carb knowledge here. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I know nothing about down draft carbs. :hmm: As for the photo I posted, that is a 1984 datsun/nissan 720 with a 1980-82 front sheet metal with the headlights raised to the early headlight positions, as the 84 has both headlight mount positions in the core support, it also has the 80-82 side marker lights, but I used the 84 bumper. If it had the 84 sheet metal, the top of the bumper would be at the bottom of the grill like in the photo of the white truck you posted with the black grill and bumper, and the side marker lights would also be almost touching the bumper. There was only one thing that I had trouble with on my 80 cab, the front bumper mounts to the frame, it is a unique bracket only on the 1980 720 as I recall, I believe I had to modify mine, as I found the bumper I wanted. This is my bumper and 1980 truck. Going to bed now, talk to you tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Lowandslow Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Alright so pretty much if I ever need any exterior parts for my truck I need to fabricate?? Nice! Looks like I need to invest in another welder. All I have right now is a flux wire welder and I don't think that's good enough to fabricate anything at the moment.Is there any websites that anyone recommends for information on the 720? Because I'm amazed at how much stuff most of the people on this forum know!! Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Nice looking 720! I love my 80. The hood is the best of all the years on 720's. That lower valance is from 1986, ST model only. I want one, along with the 86 bumper. You can find both aftermarket on eBay cheap. As for websites besides this one... http://www.720world.com Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Alright so pretty much if I ever need any exterior parts for my truck I need to fabricate?? Nice! Looks like I need to invest in another welder. All I have right now is a flux wire welder and I don't think that's good enough to fabricate anything at the moment. Is there any websites that anyone recommends for information on the 720? Because I'm amazed at how much stuff most of the people on this forum know!! I did not say you would have to fabricate parts, it's just the 80 model year has a few one year items, such as the hood mentioned, the radiator, the way the bumper brackets bolt to the frame, any 80-82 4" bumper itself will bolt onto the 80 bracket, the fenders are the same from 1980-86, same with the doors, windshield, a lot of stuff is the same, but they changed small things every couple years. You may be able to combine the lower 86 ST model sheet metal with your existing sheet metal and hide the conversion line behind the bumper. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Valences..... '84... Doubt I would change the lip... Quote Link to comment
Bagged620bulletside Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 That must be the reason as to why my front end is all messed up. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 That must be the reason as to why my front end is all messed up. This looks like an early grill(80-82) with a late side marker light(83ish-86), see the gap between the grill and the top of the bumper. The bumper is also 83+, this is what happens when years start getting mixed. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Discounting the bent to hell bumper, that's a stock 720 King Cab valance, at least for 83-84. Anything bigger and lower is aftermarket. Smaller ones, without the lip, were common on standard cabs and earlier trucks. 720s had a lot of sheet metal variations. My 86 720 KC has it also Quote Link to comment
Bagged620bulletside Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 This looks like an early grill(80-82) with a late side marker light(83ish-86), see the gap between the grill and the top of the bumper.The bumper is also 83+, this is what happens when years start getting mixed. Yea when i bought the truck is had the grill and corner lights on it I put the 1983 bumper on there. My truck is a 82 Stan cab. Quote Link to comment
Lowandslow Posted February 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Might be a dumb question, but is the 1980 720 more closely built to the 620? I know it's a 720 and the next model after a 620 but do they share suspension parts? Quote Link to comment
Lowandslow Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 So for now I still have the Hitachi and I am pretty sure I have it tuned well, except for the mid - high range. Seems like most of the punch is in the 2 to 3k rpm's. Could someone guide me in the right direction as to how to tune the secondary on this carb? Is that possible to tune it? I have some experience on carbs, but it all comes from working on this truck. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.