custom primer 1979 280zx

[ClassicDatsun]

worked on the car this past two days, so far ive found out that the fuel pump isn't working, checked cylinder compression: 1st 140psi 2nd 140psi 3rd 140psi 4th 145psi 5th 135psi 6th 136psi, and that this car has more rust than ive seen on a car, also the previous owner was very fond of using fiberglass and bondo to try and cover the rust..... i'm starting to loose hope on this car :crying:

[Ryoskatekov]

worked on the car this past two days, so far ive found out that the fuel pump isn't working, checked cylinder compression: 1st 140psi 2nd 140psi 3rd 140psi 4th 145psi 5th 135psi 6th 136psi, and that this car has more rust than ive seen on a car, also the previous owner was very fond of using fiberglass and bondo to try and cover the rust..... i'm starting to loose hope on this car :crying:

 

 

 but atleast your engine block its self seems to be in good shape.. mine has 200k miles and no tools to rebuild it... I think its guna go boom soon...  

 

Just get it running and then do what ever with the body. Don't worry... Z's are rusty as hell..   I dont even have frame rails... its just...    crumbling rust LOL  If it drives , It drives.  

 

 

 

[ClassicDatsun]

 

 but atleast your engine block its self seems to be in good shape..

thats what you think and what i hope. :lol:

i just finished some quick plans of what i wanted the exterior to look like

 

[Ryoskatekov]

If you'd like, I can share you the template I made a while ago.  I suck at photoshop so I still use this instead lol 



 

[ClassicDatsun]

wow man thats really well drawn and thought out not like my quick little brainstorm on paper :lol:

[PrimeLuxeZ]

Thats pretty good, only if it was a bit darker it would make it better, mind if i use it as a template?

[ClassicDatsun]

are you talking to me or to ryo?

[PrimeLuxeZ]

RYO

[Ryoskatekov]

RYO

lol go ahead, I put it on the interwebz so anyone can use it. 

 

It's light just in case I want to color it.  but I did make one mistake and its that Pillar and Tail lights are different on 79~81 vs ~83 and I forgot to leave it blank. 

[ClassicDatsun]

ok so i'm really close to getting this car running. today i just took out the fuel pump (which is the only thing that's keeping this car from comeing back to life) and tried to replace it with a spare bosch pump # 0 580 254 957  that i had laying around but i need the little end that goes on the outlet side of the pump. i may just replace it with an entirerly new bosch pump.

[ClassicDatsun]

while waiting around for my uncle and brother get me parts i did this

 

i think it looks way better than my original sketch

thanks ryo

[ClassicDatsun]

well it turns out that my uncle and bro can't get me any parts. :crying: :mad: but i did find a suitible replacement for my fuel pump. even though i'm a little bit closer to getting the car running i already feel like throwing it to the junk yard. :crying:i just found a huge rust hole where my right hand rear suspension is supposed to be bolted on :o :crying: :crying: and i found out that to get a set of 82-83 front and rear bumpers costs well more than what this car has cost me. i've certainly realized that this isn't going to be anything like my drawings. now i feel like this :mad: :crying: :mad: :crying: :mad:

[PrimeLuxeZ]

Are you talking about original bumbers?

Nothing a little welding can't fix, my 280zx has rust through both sides of the floor panels on the drivers side and passenger side. And around the windshield. 

Dont let rust bring you down, it can be fixed man.

[ClassicDatsun]

i would like to get my hands on a set of original 82-83 bumpers like the ones in my drawing above. as for the rust i think i might be able to fix it i just felt a little overwhelmed when is saw that where the suspension was supossed to be bolted on there was a huge hole with the suspension resting on the edge of the hole i'll try to get some pics up tomorrow . anyway thanks for the kind words bro, sometime all it takes is to have someone encourage you to keep going

[PrimeLuxeZ]

Oh okay, I would sell you mine, because I removed them but the inner metal structure on the rear one is totally rusted and falling apart, and the front on is kinda decent, you have aftermarket bumpers?

Yeah no prob bro, I was the same way when I saw the rust on mine, but I see other builds where the car should just be scrap metal, but they totally just bring the car back to life.

[ClassicDatsun]

wow man if you could do that for me that would be great my car is a 79 and it has an aftermarket body kit that i don't really like and i would really prefere so 82-83 stlye bumpers i'll pm you later.

and about the rust this is what freaked me out i found it behind the driver seat

then i looked underneeth and saw this which freaked me out even more

the after i calmed down and took another look i noticed that it wasn't so bad

[Ryoskatekov]

If I'm right I believe the rear subframe is connected to the differential mainly and sub-supported by the cushion thingy on the frame that you have a hole through.... Idk, if it'll affect the car much. 

[ClassicDatsun]

Yea i don't think it'll affect the car that much. It just that when I first saw it it seamed a whole Lot worse

[ClassicDatsun]

i'm having fuel injector issues the fuel injectors don't have any voltage in them the fuel injectors work fine i passed some current to them and pumped air into them and they sprayed fine here is video of what the car does it turn on and idels at a very low rev then all of a sudden it turns off or if i press the gas it also shuts off

[Ryoskatekov]

I'm going SU carbs by this year :P 

[ClassicDatsun]

I'm going SU carbs by this year :P

ive considered triple carbs frequently in the last days :D

 

this thing has gone through two new fuel pumps! i cleaned the tank, put new fuel filter, cleaned fuel lines, and this last pump still blew! the fuel injectors still haven't got any current in them and i'm suspecting that all my problems are thanks to my fuel injection control module. do any of you have any suggestions, answers?

[I'm BLUE]

Clean your battery cables , and drop test them.

Clean ALL grounds pertaining to the EFI Harness ( usually about 4-5 total on the drivers side ... specifically the (3) bolted to the intake manifold with 10mm heads and usually (1) above them as well as near the area around the ignition coil or just below. ).

 

Check your EFI Relay ,,, connections on and leading to it (with a mult-meter) as well as injector resistor pack.

 

Check the fusible links as well ... corroded is better to see than melted ... easily replaced irregardless.

 

Bosch EV-1 style injector connectors are available just about everywhere if you have a bad one or set (connections/wires/crap/etc)

 

 

 

I run Triple 40DCOE's  on my L28 + late zx 5spd in my 240z.

While I do love them ,,, make sure you're ready to tune + re-jet them and usually takes a bit more experience/knowledge than that ;)

Carter Electric low-pressure pump (about 3-4psi pre-set ... high-volume + low-pressure) will set you back about $120 (that I remember).

Distributor will also be a key. I have an expensive Mallory Uni-lite WITH the filter for the module ( do not ever.... run this distributor without the filter as you'll end up burning up module after module in no time... )

A good early zx unit (like yours) with tighter shaft/reluctor play should be just ok. Make sure it advances though or you'll up fighting it every time you drive it.

[ClassicDatsun]

Clean your battery cables , and drop test them.

Clean ALL grounds pertaining to the EFI Harness ( usually about 4-5 total on the drivers side ... specifically the (3) bolted to the intake manifold with 10mm heads and usually (1) above them as well as near the area around the ignition coil or just below. ).

 

Check your EFI Relay ,,, connections on and leading to it (with a mult-meter) as well as injector resistor pack.

 

Check the fusible links as well ... corroded is better to see than melted ... easily replaced irregardless.

 

Bosch EV-1 style injector connectors are available just about everywhere if you have a bad one or set (connections/wires/crap/etc)

 

 

 

I run Triple 40DCOE's  on my L28 + late zx 5spd in my 240z.

While I do love them ,,, make sure you're ready to tune + re-jet them and usually takes a bit more experience/knowledge than that ;)

Carter Electric low-pressure pump (about 3-4psi pre-set ... high-volume + low-pressure) will set you back about $120 (that I remember).

Distributor will also be a key. I have an expensive Mallory Uni-lite WITH the filter for the module ( do not ever.... run this distributor without the filter as you'll end up burning up module after module in no time... )

A good early zx unit (like yours) with tighter shaft/reluctor play should be just ok. Make sure it advances though or you'll up fighting it every time you drive it.

thanx for all the intructions and help!

tomorrow ima see what i can do (i will need a diagram of were the efi relay, injector resistor pack, and fusible links are)

im sure i cleaned the battery cables, checked the three manifold grounds, and tested the fuel injectors with a direct battery, a spray of carb cleaner in them and an air compressor. they all worked fine but then again i am a dumb 16 year old kid

 

 

btw im starting to think that i should trade my 280zx for my dads b210

should i or should i not?

[I'm BLUE]

thanx for all the intructions and help!

tomorrow ima see what i can do (i will need a diagram of were the efi relay, injector resistor pack, and fusible links are)

im sure i cleaned the battery cables, checked the three manifold grounds, and tested the fuel injectors with a direct battery, a spray of carb cleaner in them and an air compressor. they all worked fine but then again i am a dumb 16 year old kid

 

 

btw im starting to think that i should trade my 280zx for my dads b210

should i or should i not?

 

for sure.

 

EFI Relay will be behind the battery area ... located in the fender well cut-out area ... accessed by a black plastic cover retained by phillips head screws .... (usually 2-4 phillips screws will let you access it).

 

Fusible links will be the "little black box" right next to the battery ... screwed to the passengers side area ....around 5-inches ahead of the battery area (towards front of the car).

 

Injector resistor packs are usually on the drivers side ... just to the left (drivers) of the brake master cylinder kinda tucked in the corner

( I could be wrong , but off the top of my head that's where I remember nearly all of the 79-81 - 82-83 zx's existing )

It will look like a "chunk of metal" with wires leading to it. Could be a pain to get out depending on what tools you have access to.

 

 

Try fixing the zx first ... irregardless ... it will be great experience for you , and who knows might be something stupid that's holding you back :) ( usually is for me )

b210's are cool though.

 

Injector Resistor packs don't go bad that often on zx's , EFI relay's "occasionally" go bad , but more usually the connections and contacts to them.

 

 

Just remember this if anything else ... you can NEVER tell the electrical condition of anything by just "looking at it" ... no matter how shiney the connection may be .... it needs to be tested with the right tools or at least a multi-meter.

 

Have fun , if something doesn't make sense either grab a manual , read on xenon.com , hybridz.org , or post here ...

 

Good luck !

 

DTP

[ClassicDatsun]

Thanx man. While I may be able to fix most mechanical things on the car it's the electrical stuff I have hard times with