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Cut springs on '72 510


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I recently picked up a '72 510 and the springs are cut on the front and it bottoms out if driven over ANYTHING. What would be the cheapest way to take care of that, and also what are some decent but not too expensive struts/shocks to put under there.

 

Right now I'm only fixing it up as a daily driver until I can afford to put the good stuff in there.

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new shocks. not sure of any direct replacements but tokico hp HZ3038 will work, but they are shorter than 510 inserts so you will have to use a spacer in the strut tube. or you could shorten the strut.

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I recently picked up a '72 510 and the springs are cut on the front and it bottoms out if driven over ANYTHING. What would be the cheapest way to take care of that, and also what are some decent but not too expensive struts/shocks to put under there.

 

Right now I'm only fixing it up as a daily driver until I can afford to put the good stuff in there.

 

Cheapest option would just be to put uncut stock springs back in there.

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280 springs are bigger diameter than 510. the 280 strut housing is a popular swap but people swap springs to the correct diameter ones. the 280 struts allow you to run bigger brakes. some people on here run the cheap egay coilover kits, the problem is its an unknown spring rate so your just hoping they will be close to what you need.

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If it was lowered the strut may be bottoming out. If super low, I mean mental low...and you don't mind raising the body, add rubber rings on top or below the spring to lift it. This will increase the strut travel.

 

Possibly the strut oil has leaked out or is low or has air in it. If this is the case air is very compressible and won't dampen. Basically you have no shock.

 

Take the struts out and empty out the crappy water thin factory fluid. Replace with 20W motorcycle fork oil. Thicker fluid will resist flowing through the strut valves and will firm up the action. I did my zx struts with this and it was under $20 for a liter that will do three struts. You can use any hydraulic oil of equal viscosity, I used fork oil because it is full of rust inhibitors and anti foam agents.

 

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510s had 3 shrut tube sizes. the 71s had the longest so when kids lowered then they more or less rode on the bump stops.

Trick is get a shorter strut and longer spring and the Overall size is the same then cut maybe 1.5 coils. But best is like what was said find a guy with some stock springs till you figure what you really want.

Most of us have domne this 2 or 3 times till we got it right also. Just read up and skip righ to the beat of a T3 coil over set up once you know what brake or strut set up you really want.

510 or a 280zx(prefered) then you can make a better wheel choice later.as offset are different.

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The cut spring will be very stiff but if you like the feel just place shims under the spring to raise the ride height.

 

Were the struts modified at all or are they stock? There is a way to make them height adjustable with that shorter spring for under $30.

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those springs are cut so much you had to be riding on the stops.

 

since you got funky flairs you got to really lower the car to fill in the gap or put soem Donk wheels on this thing

Just going by how is sitw to lower that car that much where the top of the tire is close to the lip the valance will almost be on the ground.

 

BE HONEST I WOULD MAKE THIS MORE A RALLY CAR AND KEEP IT UP(HIGHER)

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I bought some 1" rubber spring spacers so I'm going to put the cut ones back in with the spacers and see how it is.

 

If its still too low I'll just cut the stock ones a coil or two at a time until it sits just right without bottoming out.

 

I did pull the struts apart and put some 40w fork oil in there and they're a hell of a lot stiffer so I think those spring spacers will work out until I can get some coil overs or something better under there.

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I'm running 20W motorcycle fork oil in my Maxima struts. Was warned the 30W may pop the valving in cold weather.... just saying.

 

Also don't set your ride height by cutting the springs. Cutting the spring increases the spring rate or stiffness. Cut the spring only to get the ride quality where you want it, then add spacers to get the height where you want it. It's unlikely the ride height and the stiffness where you want it are the same.

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Got ya. Stock springs are about 90 pounds per inch. Many like almost twice that, some even at 300 pounds/inch. I cut a coil and worked out mine on my 710 and they are at 150/inch. I feel that's good for me.

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