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Fancy 510 Cooing System Upgrade - PICS GALORE (Links Fixed)


denis.drc

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NorCal summers, especially in Sacramento, are HOT. We had stretch last year of about a month with 100+ degree weather.

The hot weather really showed flaws in my cooling system. I found it nearly impossible to drive for more than 30 miles without the gauge reaching 80% HOT. This was less than ideal.. :sneaky:

 

What better excuse than to upgrade the cooling system?!

 

Lucky for me one of my buddies had a fancy brand-new 'Mishimoto' aluminum radiator that he was willing to part with.

 

It was for a '97 Dodge Neon. The size was just right. Wider and taller than OEM, but small enough to fit inside the engine bay.

 

Broke out the tools and got to work.. 

 

This is the radiator. Nice quality unit.

mishimotorad_zps08427046.jpg

 

 

This radiator uses pegs at the top and bottom to mount into the vehicle.

 

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I though about using the pegs and associated rubber mounts/isolators, but after careful measuring, I noticed it would make the radiator sit too high. So I cut the posts off and decided to fab up for brackets to use oem style direct core-support mounts.

 

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Got out the tig and attached the brackets.

Then it was time for a test fit..

 

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Fit was great, but the opening in the front of the 510 was just too small, so I had to enlarge it a tad..

 

 

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MUCH BETTER!

 

 

The next step I did just because I wanted to.

 

I wanted to run larger radiator hoses, so I enlarged the inlets/outlets of the engine and the radiator. This was also a good way to remove the corroded ends of the thermostat housing and the lower water outlet fitting.

 

Here's an example..

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While at it, I also made a temperature switch housing for my electric fan setup, and a hose union (I ended up not using the hose union pipe)

 

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All the pieces completed with beads rolled into the ends.

 

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Since my car didn't come with a radiator overflow tank (I had been using a Gatorade bottle for a while), I decided to add an overflow tank and breather tank. Attached them to the sides of the radiator. I also fabbed up an aluminum fan shroud to use with a pair of slim line fans. (One is an 11" one is a 10"..most clearance that way.)

 

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Final test fit without the fans. I noticed the lower radiator hose was now too close to the alternator pulley, so I machined about 3mm from the pulley and ended up with a much more comfortable clearance.

 

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Final test fit with the fans installed revealed just how close the water pump pulley was to the fans if using standard bolts. Easiest solution was just to use slim line bolts. Don't let the pics fool you, there is about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch between them now.

 

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All that done, it was time to install the assembly and see how it works..

 

Final product:

 

Also, not the reliefs in the radiator mounting brackets around the headlights...attention to detail! B)

 

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Cooling is AWESOME with this radiator. With an OEM temp. thermostat it get's up to temp. quickly and stays there!

 

I'll update the temp. rating of the thermostat and temp. switch later. I want to say it's a 85*C thermostat and a 92*C temp. switch.

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Fixed! Enjoy!

 

Thanks for the heads-up Tristin!

 

No problem... I figured with that many images, youd want them working right. It looks like you did a fantastic job. Those Mishimoto radiators are great. I know a bunch of high horsepower DSMs and Evos running them with no problems. I was running one as well until I went with a half radiator. 

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No problem... I figured with that many images, youd want them working right. It looks like you did a fantastic job. Those Mishimoto radiators are great. I know a bunch of high horsepower DSMs and Evos running them with no problems. I was running one as well until I went with a half radiator. 

 

Thanks for the positive feedback, Tristin.

 

It is a nice quality radiator indeed. The end tanks are thick and easy to weld to. (some...MOST eBay radiators seem to be made of paper mache and are not too pleasant to work with, not to mention trust for anything but show use...)

 

I love how well it fit. Enlarging the front opening is a small sacrifice to get the extra air flow..

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Coolant recovery tank. For this you need a special rad cap. When internal pressure exceeds that of the spring loaded cap (usually 13 PSI)and coolant is expelled, it goes into the coolant recovery can. For it to work the hose must extend down near the recovery bottle bottom which should be kept part filled to cover the end of the hose. When the rad cools and the internal vapor contracts the coolant is sucked back into the rad through the special rad cap to keep it full. I have them on both my 710s and every time I check my rad it is full to the brim.

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I wouldn't seal it like air tight. Just a container that holds about a liter with some coolant in the bottom, maybe a cupful, and the over flow tube below the water line. I used a plastic pop bottle with hole in screw top large enough for the rubber hose to push through

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