holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I might be going to look at a '73 620 tomorrow and I was just wondering if there are any common problems I should be on the lookout for. From the pictures the truck looks like it's in really good shape, but are there any areas on these truck that are prone to rust or any other sort of mechanical problems I should look out for? Any advice would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment
w_datsun_a Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Battery tray, rockers, floorboards are all prone to rust/corrosion. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 also check the bed near the cab, and bottoms of the fenders for rust/rot. Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Thanks for the tips guys. Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 and the rear cab mounts. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 a 73 in socal? nooo problems! :) 1 Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 a 73 in socal? nooo problems! :) Judging by your location and listed cars you might be a little bit biased :P Are there any Datsun get togethers in Socal? I'm in the Temecula area. Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Are there any Datsun get togethers in Socal? No, datsun meets are an East Coast thing. They're rare on the West Coast. Common rust areas are battery tray, bottom of doors, bottom of fenders near doors, forward bed floor, floorpans, and pretty much anywhere that water can collect and sit. If it's been sitting then it may need brakes and or suspension components. The parts are so cheap that I prefer to do it all at once when I get an old vehicle. Master cylinder, wheel cylinders, soft lines, brake shoes, brake fluid, surface/replace drums, inner and outer wheel bearings, misc. rubber bushings, tie rod ends, and 4 new shocks all for under 200$ Rockauto.com is the best source I have found for datto parts and most would agree. I just looked under 73 620 and they have a bunch of closeout deals. 6.80$ shocks! The most important thing to look for is goosebumps and that feeling you get on Christmas morning when you're 5 years old. If that's the case, then you should buy it. Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 No, datsun meets are an East Coast thing. They're rare on the West Coast. Common rust areas are battery tray, bottom of doors, bottom of fenders near doors, forward bed floor, floorpans, and pretty much anywhere that water can collect and sit. If it's been sitting then it may need brakes and or suspension components. The parts are so cheap that I prefer to do it all at once when I get an old vehicle. Master cylinder, wheel cylinders, soft lines, brake shoes, brake fluid, surface/replace drums, inner and outer wheel bearings, misc. rubber bushings, tie rod ends, and 4 new shocks all for under 200$ Rockauto.com is the best source I have found for datto parts and most would agree. I just looked under 73 620 and they have a bunch of closeout deals. 6.80$ shocks! The most important thing to look for is goosebumps and that feeling you get on Christmas morning when you're 5 years old. If that's the case, then you should buy it. Thanks for the advice man. It doesn't look like it's been sitting or anything like that, but I'll make sure to check out those parts. For that price I might pick some up for when I do eventually need them. Quote Link to comment
pharouh Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 What they said,and check the wiring harness and under the dash and the fuse box. If it looks like spaghetti,someone's been working on it. Good luck! Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 my biggest problem came from rust in the gas tank, which clogged up the whole system, from the metal lines, to the filter, and then the carb. but my truck had been sitting unran for 7 years. there is a datsun meet on thursdays in national city. some really well done datsuns show up there. a lot of those guys like to remain under the radar though so no forums for them 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 The pre '78s had king pins. Be sure they are in good shape. Lift the front end and push up on the tire looking for slop in the joint. Steering slop is likely all the ball joint and idler arm wear combined. Look at front tires... are they worn in the middle, on the outside? Are the tires made by 4 different makers and 3 different sizes??? Pull the tranny and differential oil fill plug. You should be able to dip your little finger into the oil. If you can't feel the oil it indicates the owner didn't care enough to maintain his vehicle properly. Look in the rad. Should be full of good clear green anti freeze coolant. This is also a good indication that the cooling system is working properly and was maintained. Are the heater hoses connected to the firewall? Or has the heater been by-passed? Look at the engine oil. Black and low means the owner didn't care to change it or keep it topped up. Brown or milky is likely a blown head gasket and if left sitting for any time the cylinder(s) are likely all rusty by now. Pull the valve cover if you can and look at the cam and valve train for crud and deposits. Look at the engine compartment. Are all the pieces there? Is the air filter missing, rad cap, extra mystery wires, missing headlight? shit like this says the owner didn't care. Look in the cab. Is there a door bell button on the steering column for a horn?, rear view mirror, ash tray missing? Wires hanging down under the dash? Truck should start a half dozen times in a row. Idle should be smooth and even, no odd sounds. No blue or black smoke. Once warmed up shut off and it should restart easily. Temp gauge should read in the 'run' area preferably just below half way at all times. Alternator light should come on with the key and go out immediately after starting. If a bulb is burnt out no biggie, it happens. But the headlight (one of them) should come on with the switch. Check that front and rear marker and tail lights come on. Turn 4 way emergency switch on. Brake lights and front parking lamps should flash. Again one bulb burned out is no big deal but if none of the front or backs light up there may be a problem. Check that the heater blower works on both speeds and blows hot air. Do the wipers work? Take for a drive. Should drive away with good control and smoothly. Clutch should be smooth and quiet without shudder or squeal. It's common for the shifter to be very loose and sloppy. This is only worn rubber shifter bushings. Transmission should be quiet. Should be able to keep up with traffic. Preferably it should steer down the road without pulling. It's not the end of the world if it needs an alignment as long as there isn't a shopping list of other faults. Low frequency shaking could be a tire out of balance. A higher frequency vibration could be bad U joints... these are high wear items and easy enough to fix. It would be nice if the brakes work. Better if the truck stops in a straight line. Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I don't know if this will pertain to you or not, but the '73 California L16s had dual point dist. Gears one thru three run on the primary set of points. Basically it's like a three speed in town. At about 40 or 45 MPH you shift into forth and a switch on the trans runs the secondary set of points advanced about 7% so you get better gas milage on the highway. These little engines are made to wind out. I never shift below four K, easy to lug if you are not used to driving one. Lugging an L16 is way worse that winding one out! Pop the dist. cap to see if there is a dual point ignition and is original. Or, had it been changed to a singe point, pertronix swap or a "matchbox" dizzy... the upgrade! It would be nice if all the smog stuff and Hatichi carb was unmolested. Then you could disconnect it right. Look at the fuse block, specially the headlight fuses to see if thing got hot and melted. It's all fixable but a hassle. holyhalloweenbatman... go to the library to see if you can find a book called How To Keep Your Nissan/Datsun Alive, by Colin Messer, If you end up getting this truck you need this. It is out of print, but you can get it used on Amazon cheaper that the $20 it was new. Worth every cent times a hundred if you are a noob. Let's see... "73 doesn't need to be Smogged? What else do you need to know? I hope you bought this thing already... How much? OICS???? Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Doh! I forgot to mention fuel delivery! As that sailor guy said, the tank could be pretty nasty if it has been sitting with gas, and rusty if sitting without gas. Rubber fuel lines from the hardline to pump and pump to carb should be inspected and if they seem dry or worn in any way you should go ahead and replace them. I failed to do so and have ended up replacing all three lines under the hood. They went bad one at a time causing my pump to pull air a few times too many. I never had the time to drop the tank but I did run some old gas through the filler neck and out the drain hole. 3 fuel filters later and it seems to be good and clean. Experience is a great teacher. Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Thank you so much for all the advice. Turns out I can't go look at it until Tuesday so if I pick it up then I'll be sure to post some pics. 1 Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Didn't end up buying the truck. Partly because it wasn't in near as good of shape the guy said it was in and therefore wasn't worth his asking prices, but also because I could barely fit in it. Guess I'm too tall for the standard cab. Do the King Cab versions have a lot more leg room in them? Thank you all so much for your advice though. It helped a lot to know what to look for. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 You can set the seat back further or recline it more in a KC. Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Cool. Unfortunately I haven't seen any KCs in the Southern California craigslists, but maybe one will pop up eventually. Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Yes as a big guy I highly recommend a king cab. I had a longbed in fantastic condition and had to get rid of it because I simply couldn't fit. Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 How tall are you? I'm around 6'2", but I have really long legs so the standard cab would not have worked at all. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 im 6'2" and all i needed to do was install an aftermarket steering wheel and i DD my 620 Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 in Adams case, watch out for Honder bitches that hit datsuns. sorry Adam but it's a true story. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 more true than you know Kim! a honda took out the Longbed too! Quote Link to comment
holyhalloweenbatman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 The truck I was looking at had an aftermarket steering wheel, but I felt like my knees were almost in my chest lol. Found a king cab sort of close by, but it has no motor or transmission. I've been day dreaming about dumping a KA into it, but I don't know if I have the time for that and I needed something that I could start driving really soon. Sorry about the truck man. That really sucks :( Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 I remember your bro's 620 getting hit also, is it because the 620's were originally yellow. I hope not because I've got a KC that color and plan on bring it to Canby 2014. When ur bro's got hit, was it a Female also. disclaimer::: ^^ just for the record. lol Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.