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A10's U-nite !!!!


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and just my luck I found one the next day about 9hrs from me. So I went and got it lol. http://imgur.com/a/zlw56

nice! what are your plans for it ?  

 

 hey guys sorry to insists but nobody knows anything about the mirrors?  

20232902_10212612372239232_4860179009490

 

yuuup I´m on a budget if I wasn´t  I would have gone with an sr20det and ended up with something like this :  

 

but well back to reality here are the camber plates ( I think they are for a nissan S13 )  

20292831_1381891988531457_54305701315116

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those are from a wilwood kit for ... i dont remember for which car but those are 11"+ 4 pistons calipers that´s why I need to ride on 15" ... probably it´s gonna take a little bit more time to get the paint done cuz I´m still trying to decide if I Swap an ae86 rear end or an S13 but I´m running out of $$ so we will see

S13s have IRS.

 

Unless you want to be ambitious lol

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S13s have IRS.

 

Unless you want to be ambitious lol

indeed IRS >>>  Solid rear axel  but it´s gonna be twice the money lol I´m going to body shop this weekend so I can get an idea of how much money would it take to widebody the rear they made this B210 and it has an R32 rear end 

 

 

17904490_1899676016978244_31521822794778

and obviously this goes inside : 

 

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so I went to body shop this weekend and ohh boy that I feel poor now lol the price were outrageous, I´m gonna have to find another place, it´s a shame cuz they are serious people in the industry. I´ve been doing some calls to get a budget and I came across a huge doubt : should I sandblast the car?? I`ve been told that sandblasting makes the metal thinner plus if you don`t apply epoxi fast enough you are gonna get microscopic rust that will fuck your car later on   :crying: , therefore you should avoid it unless the car has plenty of rust  and my car has very little rust. I know that some of those comments are not out of place cuz once I saw that in Graveyard Carz they used acid instead of sandblasting cuz the car was in such bad condition that sandblasting would destroy it and even acid itself was a risky bet soooo can somebody enlighten me :confused:  :confused:

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I suggest if you're going to have anything done, use media blasting ( they'll use crushed walnut shells, baking soda, etc, but not sand) we don't use sand hardly at all anymore. I also HIGHLY suggest you remember my motto, " good work ain't cheap and cheap work ain't good"! You have to figure at least $100/ hour for labor and painting supplies are crazy expensive. Plus you have panel alignment, jamming,etc. I have over 20 hours JUST in the engine bay and probably that many in the door jams! It adds up quickly. Don't make the mistake of going to a cheaper shop and either losing the car forever, or getting crap work done that has to be redone! You're deep into it now ( hadn't seen one as deep as mine until now, slightly refreshing). So don't back down now. I expect to have several hundred more hours into mine before it's done, you can do the math ( my saving grace is I'm doing it). Time=$$. Brad

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I'm beginning to think that guy is just trollzy.

Why would i ?  It´s just that the shop is faraway from my house so I can´t go and check everything as frequently as I wish( this weekend the shop was close due to holidays, but the body shop was open cuz I guess that when you are charging a ton of money you don´t mind working on holidays ) though my mechanic keep me post it so eventhogh I haven`t make any progress with the rear suspension, the front suspension is ready to go in today

 20507442_1386918078028848_86298981916112

 

This weekend I´m gonna take the mirror close up! and a bunch of pictures of  the rusty zones " " , so I can get some of your thoughts 

 

Got it media blasting, I´m gonna see if they do that here. Yup now I know that it adds up like mentos+coke lol at the beggining I was intending just to swap the motor but one thing leads you to the other. 

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I know about " snowballing". Mine started with just cleaning the ( running) engine bay up, soon there was not one more item that could come off without drilling rivets! Too many " while I've gone this far I might as well........". Oh well it's all reassembly now!

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Then just fix the spots you have.   B)

well as I promised here is the close up

 20616978_1390776450976344_13140110905223

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so now the ones of the so called rusty spots(without rust on mine  :angel: )

rocker panels:

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20643144_1390701490983840_7130119124400420626333_1390702124317110_2062990475858120689588_1390702434317079_85057759782077

doors are also in good shape 20617028_1390702070983782_19876579054255

20626333_1390702124317110_2062990475858120622212_1390701160983873_21339124559400

 

this one is gonna need some work :20689981_1390702954317027_1435435098164120615825_1390704147650241_8980115955205820643146_1390701207650535_52401168407695

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I`ve spotted rust in what I consider to be tricky places 

20615967_1390702280983761_1189772454768220616920_1390702387650417_25844366540390I m gonna need a good undercoating if I skip the mediablasting :

20621817_1390701607650495_77286839911478

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well i know this is not the best pic but I m sure everybody can see the hole in the panel: 20626435_1390704394316883_90089401796830

20615903_1390702714317051_70012026252080i know that the interior is no completly disassemble but did that not too long ago so I think that´s all the rust " "  that it´s inside 

 

BTW does anybody know which is the rear track´s measure for  this wagon ??? it would be really useful to help me to figure out what the heck I´m gonna end up doing with the rear end,though my only alternative for now is a rear end from an Evo IV  ( I`ve been searching for S13 or an Altezza rear end and nobody has one ) 

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Mine had it in the same place, and it was a &_$#@& to get to. IF anyone knows if 2door hatch is the same ( track width) I can measure mine next week, but I don't know for sure.

According to my old manual the width of the whole car is the same for the coupe and the wagon, so I guess that they are the same 

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Track width is nearly meaningless. It is simply wheel tread center to wheel tread center, which is a variable of rim offset.

 

What you want is called wheel mounting surface measurement. WMS goes from wherever the rim seats against the drum or rotor to that same place on the other side.

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Track width is nearly meaningless. It is simply wheel tread center to wheel tread center, which is a variable of rim offset.

 

What you want is called wheel mounting surface measurement. WMS goes from wherever the rim seats against the drum or rotor to that same place on the other side.

gooot it ,thanks! that´s what I need  ! so I´ll bother you tomorrow if I can´t get in touch with my mechanic( I have sent him the evo´s measures but I haven´t got a reply )   cuz the rear ends  are like unicorns here, you don´t see them that often ( not sporty " " ones) and I want to finish the project asap.  Yuup I´m still trying ... I´ve been searching for rear ends the whole weekend  I was open to any option( solid or IRS ) but I just waste my time there was none, I got this one asking relentlessly through FB to every single shop that there is around

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