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A10's U-nite !!!!


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It's a fairly easy swap, BUT really research what you're after especially the specs. I can help you sort them out if needed, and the internet is full of articles. I've built many engines and teach engine building so please remember the cam is basically the easiest way to change the behavior of your engine, for good or bad. You can easily go backwards as quick as forwards. The OHC Datsun is a fairly easy cam swap as far as motors go though. Hope this helps and not confuses.

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  • 3 weeks later...

That's the first other 1978 2 door I've seen in MANY years ( mine is hatchback) very cool. I didn't know until recently that the A10 portion existed. Am I wrong or does A10 cover all the 78-81 models? Does anyone know of a link to a good explanation of this? Nice car though.

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78-81 is A10

 

78-79 is round headlights, 80-81 is square.

 

78-79 is L20, later is NAPSZ.

 

Different dashes between the years, and a few other tweaks.

 

Wikipedia has a lot of info

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Thank you very much for that info. I was overseas for many years ( military) and couldn't find any information on later 510's, then somehow stumbled on the A-10 , and here I am. My project is really coming along, but boy could I use a new drivers door if anyone heard of one, just need the skin, or at least most of it. I can make one, but would really rather not. Thanks again for the info, and I'll go checkout the Wikipedia article. Brad

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

how difficult is it to replace a valve lash pad on an A10?

 

I've got a dead cylinder on mine and research here suggests a displaced lash pad might be the culprit.

 

If I don't find the lash pad on top of the head can they be purchased separately?

 

Not knowing your skill level it's hard to say, but moderately difficult.

 

Pull the valve cover and look. Start there, not on the internet.   ;)

 

Yes. And in several different heights to achieve the desired pattern wipe on the rocker. Which is important. 

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Whoa... Slow down...

 

Don't jump to conclusions cause the internet says so.

 

First, check valve adjustment, spark plugs, wires, compression.

 

While it's totally possible the rocker is damaged or worn, start with the basics.

 

"Keep it simple, stupid".

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whoa... Slow down...

 

Don't jump to conclusions cause the internet says so.

 

First, check valve adjustment, spark plugs, wires, compression.

 

While it's totally possible the rocker is damaged or worn, start with the basics.

 

"Keep it simple, stupid".

mhub, thanks! I had replaced plugs back in January and that didn't do it. I built a set of 8mm Accel plug wires for it a week later and that didn't do it. I changed fuel filter shortly after and that didn't help.

 

Last week, I put a new distributor cap on it (old one was about six years old and I had sanded the corrosion off the contacts at least once) and that didn't fix it. I put a new rotor in it today...the old one was....old....like I put it in the cap in 2008 right after I bought the car. It had a discolored spot in the front of the metal strip that I couldn't sand out but I've seen a lot of rotors with worse doing fine. After changing the rotor the engine idles better. The cylinder that was dead is cutting in and out so.....maybe it was a combination of bad fuel and compromised ignition components?

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I always recommend ( and tell my students!) start with the basics. Rent ( free at auto zone or O'Reillys) or buy a compression tester and make sure you pull ALL the plugs ( bad head gasket or crack can be hidden one at a time)! See what you have first ( facts) before you go from there. Visual check next ( what components look worn or different.). Good luck, keep us posted. Brad

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

IMG_2608_zpsdwwskkfq.jpg

got er back on the road and rockin the whitewalls

IMG_2599_zpsxkusnuke.jpg

painted the engine bay and the engine old ford blue, dont think it looks too bad

IMG_2598_zpsbkqizday.jpg

IMG_2572_zpsrejwsuu4.jpg

 

IMG_2570_zpstecdgdwf.jpg

some before and afters

IMG_2615_zpsouftarsr.jpg

new weber 32/36 to, brought this old pig back to life!!

now, anyone know how to get a taller gear in this car not a fan of 2800 at 60 and any opinions on getting a header for the l20b??

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IMG_2608_zpsdwwskkfq.jpg

got er back on the road and rockin the whitewalls

IMG_2599_zpsxkusnuke.jpg

painted the engine bay and the engine old ford blue, dont think it looks too bad

IMG_2598_zpsbkqizday.jpg

IMG_2572_zpsrejwsuu4.jpg

 

IMG_2570_zpstecdgdwf.jpg

some before and afters

IMG_2615_zpsouftarsr.jpg

new weber 32/36 to, brought this old pig back to life!!

now, anyone know how to get a taller gear in this car not a fan of 2800 at 60 and any opinions on getting a header for the l20b??

What tranny or you running now? If auto, an 83,84 Maxima w/OD...If manual, a 5spd from a 77/78 Z.

 

Manifold from an early 1600, better then most if not all headers.

 

Edit: in your pic I see the smog system is intact. If you have emmision testing their you may need to be careful on running a different exhaust.

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You already have a pretty low gearset in the A10. Leave it. You will be looking forever in your neck of the woods for a replacement that fits.

 

 

Header? Waste of money.

 

L16/L18/early L20B intake and exhaust manifold, the ones that are not bolted to each other, is what you want.

 

If you are under emissions guidelines, visual inspection-well, you're screwed.

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5spd from a 77/78 Z?.... Why? Lol.

 

Best 5spd is from a ZX....

Cost and 5th gear ratio...Lately the ZX people I believe have caught on to their trans as being desirable...similar to the "A" series 60 or 63A 5spd....
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