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Electronic Ignition Conversion - Factory Datsun "matchbox"


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#61 mcordero8

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 04:07 PM

Does anyone know?



#62 red13

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 11:00 PM

got a ignition upgrade done and tested

wiring%20coil.png

coil3.jpg

module.jpeg



#63 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 11:26 AM



#64 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 11:31 AM

If nothing wrong with the matchbox why?? If 'upgrade' what's the advantage?


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#65 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 11:55 AM

If nothing wrong with the matchbox why?? If 'upgrade' what's the advantage?

little better spark, its not only the module, but a gm coil.



#66 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 01:34 PM

Define better, then. Got a comparison?


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#67 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 01:45 PM

Define better, then. Got a comparison?

no comparison, but has been done on 280z and z31s

http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/prw2.html



#68 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 02:21 PM

wiring%20coil.png


Where's the 12 volts coming from?
Where's the trigger signal for the power transistor?
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#69 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 02:30 PM

Resistor is for,tach have not got that far it may or may not need it. the 12v is from where the stock positive side coil was getting power. It wires into the distributor pickup. Red 12v green ground. That is why i gutted a old,module to run wires through it

#70 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 03:29 PM

Hang on. The Red and Green wires are just a coil that the spinning reluctor induces a current in. This little signal is what tells the module to turn off so there is spark. It's not supposed to have 12 volts connected to it.

 

This might be a viable up grade but it has to work without damaging anything.


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#71 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 04:01 PM

i unplugged the old ignition module and plug the new one into it.

13884560_1053007941401341_75783339_n.jpe



#72 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 04:30 PM

OK this below is for powering the new unit, but where does the signal come from????

 

module.jpeg

 

wiring%20coil.png


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#73 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 04:57 PM

i was turning the dizzy by hand to get it to spark. everything hooks up stock just swapping the coil and ignition module in place. 



#74 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 05:47 PM

OK your diagram makes no sense is what I'm saying.


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#75 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 06:06 PM

OK your diagram makes no sense is what I'm saying.

i need to make it better i know it was the one i made when i was building it, 12v is coming from the factory harness



#76 datzenmike

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 07:30 PM

I'll wait. Wish you had a comparison of the matchbox spark. Damn.... these units are everywhere in the wrecking yards.


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#77 red13

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 08:40 PM

I'll wait. Wish you had a comparison of the matchbox spark. Damn.... these units are everywhere in the wrecking yards.

if i had the coil to wire up i would do the matchbox setup, ideally the remote electronic dizzy would be better.  instead of having to gut a ignition module to wire it.  Yeah the prw-2 ignition module and gm coil are easy to get a hold of



#78 datzenmike

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 05:30 AM

Skip the module and connect directly to the Red and the Green coil wires.


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#79 G-Duax

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 05:55 AM

When comparing, or checking for spark in open air, you need to use a much larger gap, like cutting the ground electrode completely off the test plug.

The reason is because it takes a much stonger spark to jump (for refference) .040" under compression, than it does in open air.

The rule of thumb I have always went by is a minimum of .250" gap in open air.

On some really high compression applications, that needs to be even greater, or the engine will cut out durring full load with a standard plug gap.

The only way to get around that is to close the gap on the plug, or get a hotter ignition.

 

I campained a 125cc flat track bike in the mid '70s that had a 19:1 compression ratio.

The only way I could get it to run cleanly through the rpm range was to run a .016" plug gap.



#80 red13

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 10:00 AM

Skip the module and connect directly to the Red and the Green coil wires.

the prw-2 ignition module does wire into the red and green wire, just used the old module to gut to run wiring through