Jump to content


Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

Electronic Ignition Conversion - Factory Datsun "matchbox"


  • Please log in to reply
79 replies to this topic

#41 datO)))

datO)))

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 174 posts
  • Location:Pdx
  • Cars:datsun 520,521,'80s brown turd,411 goon

Posted 04 June 2015 - 08:08 AM

Ok I'll keep at it. I think today I'm going to just take pictures and double my efforts procedures

#42 datO)))

datO)))

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 174 posts
  • Location:Pdx
  • Cars:datsun 520,521,'80s brown turd,411 goon

Posted 06 June 2015 - 04:21 PM

Ok so just picked up an EL dizzy/ coil from an 81 810. It's for a 6 cylinder but I'm just going to swap some parts and BAM! Bitch is going to work...... Feeling good about this . Total cost, $50

#43 datO)))

datO)))

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 174 posts
  • Location:Pdx
  • Cars:datsun 520,521,'80s brown turd,411 goon

Posted 06 June 2015 - 09:37 PM

It worked! The wagon lives again. And it was simple. Just need the matching coil and a working modul . just like yall were sayin. See ya at the Canby meet.

#44 GoGoGo

GoGoGo

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 135 posts
  • Location:East Bay, CA
  • Cars:1999 BMW M3 and 1971 Datsun 510

Posted 12 June 2015 - 11:03 AM

Before I start combining stock wiring just want to make sure these are the right wires to splice together and reconnect to the + side of the coil which is 3.0 ohm. Much appreciated!

n4YACGe.jpg



#45 banzai510(hainz)

banzai510(hainz)

    L motor God

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,240 posts

Posted 12 June 2015 - 06:35 PM

Heritic

What ignition you have?
Pertronix Conversion? then best to use the stock coil as its only 1.5 ohms and youll get a hotter spark in START as you bypass the resisitor. now you have 3 ohms in start and 1.5 added when you go back to ON position. Less spark.
Its in the Pertrnix instructions

Also in a Pertonix the red + wire will be at the Ballast resisitor with the blk white wire as it want the full 12volts. Double lug the input the input to the ballast(what you have at the - side on coil)


what is the red and gray wire????
and whats looks like a stock datsun wire with the gray?

Is one a tach?


Dont need 2 wires on - side coil unless one is for a tach
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#46 GoGoGo

GoGoGo

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 135 posts
  • Location:East Bay, CA
  • Cars:1999 BMW M3 and 1971 Datsun 510

Posted 13 June 2015 - 10:25 AM

I should probably find out. Troy Ermish did the install of the new motor a couple weeks ago and during the process the old distributor and Pertronix ignition was damaged so he put on an extra matchbox distributor and used the coil I had provided him. No Pertronix conversion to the matchbox (as far as I can tell). 

 

Hoping to get rid of the ballast resistor to clean up wiring etc as the coil is soon going to located on the side of the radiator anyways. Don't know what the solid black wire on the - side is. Looked at the wiring diagram and couldn't see what it would be. The car was originally an automatic so.....?

 

Here are some better pics

tRqvYI9.jpg

SJyebfr.jpg

DiC3Z6E.jpg

779ruKq.jpg

F8jYFTc.jpg

bdA9h8X.jpg



#47 banzai510(hainz)

banzai510(hainz)

    L motor God

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,240 posts

Posted 13 June 2015 - 06:22 PM

does the car run?????????

This matchbox the wires can be made better cleaner

Now if Troy Hooked this up he knows (Better)what he is doing(I would think.)

To make the Matchbox work best you get a EI coil from a 78/79 nissan say 620.200sx or a MSD Blaster 2

remove the balllast resisitor and hook the blk/ white wire with the red(B on matchbox) right at the coil. C) is minus side coil.

this diagram is a common and a EZ hookup

Datzemike and other can post this
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#48 GoGoGo

GoGoGo

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 135 posts
  • Location:East Bay, CA
  • Cars:1999 BMW M3 and 1971 Datsun 510

Posted 21 June 2015 - 09:43 AM

Figured it out. Fairly simple process of disconnecting the black/green wire and connecting the black/white wire and the black/blue wire to the + side of the terminal. Have 3 terminal connections as you can see in the pictures so no need to cut stock wires. Then removed ballast resistor. Now I need to regap my spark plugs to take advantage of the hotter spark. 



#49 soundboi

soundboi

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 58 posts

Posted 11 January 2016 - 02:47 PM

Im currently  using a blaster coil 2 with the electronic setup but still using my resistor, I changed my coil from the stock points coil to the MSD blaster unit but im getting a slight flat spot about 3500rpm, the vacuum advance works on the dizzy.

 

I changed to the blaster coil to solve this but it helped but didnt solve this, can the resistor cause this problem?

 

im also getting a pre ignition when i switch off my engine, timing is properly setup, can the resistor cause this problem?



#50 DanielC

DanielC

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,721 posts
  • Location:West Linn,Or

Posted 11 January 2016 - 03:25 PM

I am running a 521/L-16 with a matchbox distributor, and the stock Nissan ignition coil, and ballast resistor.  I do not have any of the problems you describe.

 

If the engine is running, an ignition problem will be a noticeable misfire.  A "flat spot" is more of a carburetion issue.

 

If the engine is switched off, no electricity is going to the ignition coil, or the ballast resistor.  That means you can definitely rule out electrical problems.

 

When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs?

 

I firmly believe a stock Nissan ignition coil is much higher quality than almost any after market coil.



#51 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 71,700 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 11 January 2016 - 03:30 PM

Forget the after market stuff. Their like fishing lures... they catch more fishermen that fish. Running the ballast resistor you are not getting higher output.

 

Get an EI coil that's made for the matchbox EI distributor and throw the ballast resistor away you won't need it. The Nissan EI coil has a lower impedance, meaning more current can flow through it safely without over heating. More current means more output. Just look for any coil after '77 on any Nissan. Order a '79 200sx coil or find one in the wrecking yard.  

 

Hey Daniel. I went to get my coffee and you beat me.

 

 

BTW... that matchbox distributor is from a '79 620 or an '80 720 truck.


Posted Image

#52 banzai510(hainz)

banzai510(hainz)

    L motor God

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,240 posts

Posted 12 January 2016 - 06:47 AM

If you got a Nissan matchbox distributor then  you can use a MSD or the 79/80 coil and you DONT need a resistor.   also dont run the power wires to the coil and tywrap them to the center coil wire. that noise will jump on the otherwires

 

 

if you have run on deieseling then its a open chamber head issue and dont have a carb selinoid to block the gas getting sucked in at idle. I just press the pedal down a lttle to open up the butterfly and it might help shut it off faster. or use the clutch. Happen most on hot days or motor really warm

 

 

still have proplems then dist bushing maybe be loose, dist weights inside, carb issue retime it again to anther setting


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#53 soundboi

soundboi

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 58 posts

Posted 12 January 2016 - 03:53 PM

I Changed the plugs less than 200km ago, my car hardly goes anywhere. Today i was thinking that maybe its the gas, i hardly do ever use the car, can it maybe be the gas?

 

Im going to remove the resistor tomorrow, might just make a jumper straight across it due to ease of installation.

 

Would make another post for my pre-ignition problem



#54 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 71,700 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 12 January 2016 - 04:25 PM

im also getting a pre ignition when i switch off my engine, timing is properly setup, can the resistor cause this problem?

 

That's known as dieseling or run on. I have no idea what Datsun or engine you have or the year, or if it has the stock carb. Include all this information in a separate thread. No the resistor or any part of the ignition can cause this as the ignition is turned off and the coil is not firing. .

 

Dieseling in a gas engine is the firing of the cylinders without the ignition on, caused by the heat of compression igniting the fuel and air. Causes can be...

 

1/ Too low an octane gas. The higher the octane the harder the gas is to ignite.

 

2/ Compression too high. Compression concentrates the heat in the air. A diesel engine can produce temperatures above 1,200 F. A gas engine needs less than half that amount to self ignite.

 

3/ Spark plug is too high a heat range. Tip becomes red hot and with the compression the gas auto ignites.

 

4/ Combustion chamber has excess carbon deposits that heat up glowing hot. Over rich carb, choke on, idle mix set too rich and excessive idling.

 

5/ Idle set too high. Allows too much air and gas mixture into the combustion chamber when shutting off.

 

6/ Engine running too hot. Over heating.


Posted Image

#55 mcordero8

mcordero8

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 373 posts
  • Location:95376
  • Cars:Datsun 73 620 Pickup

Posted 05 February 2016 - 04:02 PM

I have been wanting to do this conversion for my Datsun 620 with an L18 motor for a while now, but I can't find the pedestal anywhere. Does any one know the part number for it? I know you can get the 79 Datsun matchbox distributor at Rock Auto, but I am having trouble finding the mount pedestal.



#56 Draker

Draker

    Ratsun-Erect

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,351 posts
  • Location:Eugene, Or
  • Cars:1971 2 door 510, 1969 4 door 510, 2002 Tacoma double cab

Posted 05 February 2016 - 04:03 PM

Post a classified ad in the classifieds. 


View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 72 1200 Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.. ish

http://drakers.pl510.info

#57 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 71,700 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 05 February 2016 - 04:44 PM

wiringdizzypedistalsZL16L20B.jpg

 

EIdizzyandhivoloilpump015Large.jpg

 

You should be able to use your L18 base and flat adjustment spacer. What happens is that when assembled and installed, the rotor is pointing is some strange direction and not at the number one wire on the cap and there isn't enough, adjustment to get it timed right.

 

 

So drop the oil pump and the drive spindle above it. By turning the spindle and putting it back in (also called clocking it) you can move the direction the rotor is pointing when the distributor is set back in. All you need do is get the rotor directly under one of the distributor cap terminals AND at the same time enough adjustment to correctly set the advance. The terminal on the cap becomes your new NUMBER ONE plug wire. Then just move the other three wires into the 1342 order in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor cap.

 

 

 

motordistributortiming.jpg

 

This will be the stock alignment of the top of the spindle. The distributor can only engage the spindle below it in one position. You move the spindle... you move the position of the rotor.

 

 

 

If trying this, be sure to set the engine to TDC compression stroke on number one cylinder. 


Posted Image

#58 mcordero8

mcordero8

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 373 posts
  • Location:95376
  • Cars:Datsun 73 620 Pickup

Posted 05 February 2016 - 06:34 PM

Thanks Mike for the info. I just want to make sure I got this right, so I can just buy one of the matchbox distributors from Rock Auto and install it using the method you just described and I won't need anything else?

#59 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 71,700 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 05 February 2016 - 06:36 PM

There are some variations on the timing plate but if you can find one that fits or modify it then you can clock the sopindle to move the rotor where you want it.


Posted Image

#60 mcordero8

mcordero8

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 373 posts
  • Location:95376
  • Cars:Datsun 73 620 Pickup

Posted 18 February 2016 - 10:18 AM

Mike, do you know if this is the correct Distributor with the mounting pedestal and the timing plate?

24481439614_82616e090c_k.jpg