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Electronic Ignition Conversion - Factory Datsun "matchbox"


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#21 datzenmike

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 05:10 PM

Actually you can set the dizzy anywhere that places the vacuum advance and the matchbox safely out of the way, yet allows timing adjustment. Try one of the 90 degree positions. You will have to drop the spindle down and reposition it. I think there are twenty teeth on it so 20 possible positions.. not all are going to work obviously.


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#22 ggzilla

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 01:31 AM

You want the pedestal to match the engine, not necessarily the distributor.

5E98474D-7927-4ED8-A0D1-630BA7A99561_zps
It looks like the right pedestal to me.

It looks like Z22 timing plate and L18 pedestal to me. If so it will rotate the distributor incorrectly for any engine.
Here today gone tomorrow

#23 oldgasman

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 10:08 AM

How do you make stock SSS tach work with el dizzy distributor

#24 datzenmike

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 12:04 PM

It should connect exactly the same as a points dizzy. The dizzy type does not matter.

 

 

Should you be asking how to wire an SSS tach? instead??


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#25 oldgasman

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 12:41 PM

Well if you could post a diagram how to that would help also. I asked the other first as I was told it could not be used. ??
Thanks

#26 datzenmike

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 02:18 PM

Do you have the SSS tach installed and working? If yes there is nothing to do it will work with the EI dizzy..

 

If you are installing an SSS tach wire it per the instructions.

 

If no instructions the second paragraph describes the two tach types and how to join them into the ignition circuit...

510tachrepair001.png

 

510tachrepair002.png


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#27 kgrantkey

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Posted 13 February 2014 - 11:37 AM

Here is more information on inspecting the matchbox distributor. If buying used, there are two things to watch out for:

* Advance plate bearing gone bad
* Vacuum advance canister not holding vacuum

To ensure you obtain a good unit:

1. Make sure the 'teeth' line up evenly, evenly spaced (gap is equal with all four). Also wiggle the teeth with your finger. If you use a tool, you can get them all to move, but it shouldn't move with your fingers and in any case should snap back to perfect teeth gap alignment.

bad: 14075.jpg


2. Check vacuum advance -- most are bad! -- bring a vacuum gun with you and ensure that vacuum stays steady (does not slowly leak) and that it rotates the advance plate. A stuck advance plate is the result of bad plate bearings (see point #1).

good: 14074.jpg

The good news is you can buy a new can for $30 to $100 from RockAuto.com or other local parts stores.


3. Wiggle the shaft from side to side. It should have no or a tiny bit of play. If it has enough to allow the stator teeth to hit the reluctor teeth, that's way too much. That being said, the shaft bushings rarely wear out.


4. Test the mechanical advance: hold the end of the distributor shaft (at the bottom) steady, and try to turn the rotor (or top of shaft). The mechanical advance is spring-loaded:
* If it flops a little back and forth, the mechanical advance is broken
* If it doesn't move one direction, and moves a bit the other with some tension, it is good


About the teeth alignment: most of the used Matchbox distributors I have purchased have this problem. In the photo, note the mis-alignment of the reluctor. It is caused by a bad "breaker plate" assembly (vacuum-advance plate), which you cannot see without disassembly the distributor. In some of the distributors you can see ball bearings loose in the housing. In the others I couldn't see, but they are all broken. That's the problem, the BBs are held in by a plastic race.

Nissan have new breaker plates, but they are a $72 part.

 

I did these tests to my dizzy and it passed. I had at least 1 that had the bearings loose from the plastic retainer. Also had 1 with a bad vacuum

 

advance. I've had trouble in the past getting the vacume advance to work and just left it disconnected.

 

I'd really like to get mine to work just like it is supposed to. It was doing OK when I started reworking the motor so I think I'll be in the ballpark when I get everything together.

 

I've made a lot of posts lately but I'm just about ready to put everything back in the truck and drive it.  I'll add a few parts as time goes by to help with the overall performance and longevity

 

of this 620 pickup.



#28 jimmy billy

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 09:31 PM

Ok so i have a match box diz with the code D4K and 22100. Everything seems to look right and when i go to mount it the box faces towards the front of the motor so im guessing theats right cause you sead you dont want it to point towards the header. I lined the motor up to tdc and the rotor points towards #1 wire i removed the points diz and put the other diz in and turn the rotor to line up with the #1 and it doesnt go in. I turn it till it hit #3 wire and it goes in......wtf! Lol am i doing something wrong??? Or do i have to turn the inner splined shaft and line it up so its siting right so my diz lines up right with the #1 wire???

#29 wayno

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 09:52 PM

Ok so i have a match box diz with the code D4K and 22100. Everything seems to look right and when i go to mount it the box faces towards the front of the motor so im guessing theats right cause you sead you dont want it to point towards the header. I lined the motor up to tdc and the rotor points towards #1 wire i removed the points diz and put the other diz in and turn the rotor to line up with the #1 and it doesnt go in. I turn it till it hit #3 wire and it goes in......wtf! Lol am i doing something wrong??? Or do i have to turn the inner splined shaft and line it up so its siting right so my diz lines up right with the #1 wire???

So you have an L20b dist on an L16, correct?


 

 


#30 jimmy billy

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 10:00 PM

From what i knew from the preveous owner their mite of been a l18 in the car before i got it. Know their was a 8 after D4K does that mean anything???

#31 jimmy billy

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 10:08 PM

I had two diz's in the car siting in a box. Cody looked at em and pulled the caps and one was points and one was a match box. Everything looked right with the numbers. Untill i put it on :-(

#32 wayno

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 10:11 PM

It really doesn't matter where the rotor is pointed, as long as it points directly at a post on the cap, and that posts wire will go to #1 plug and then plug the wires counter clockwise 1, 3, 4, 2.


 

 


#33 jimmy billy

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 08:17 AM

Yee boy!!! Then shes in :-D

#34 deleterius

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 01:48 PM

Just need clarification.  Road, you show wiring from the matchbox as follows:  (bypass the resistor) "C" terminal to neg side of coil.  "B" terminal to positive, but in the Dime Quarterly Volume4, Issue2, page 6, it is the opposite.  Which is it?  I have voltage at both sides of the coil, bypassed the resistor ballast, but still not generating a spark.  Used the dizzy from a '79 620, and matching ignition coil.  My '72 510 was equipped with dual points, so is there an additional step/wiring needed for this swap?

 

Much thanks!



#35 ggzilla

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 07:29 PM

WIRING
------

2-wires attach to the Matchbox distributor. Connect:

* White OR Black/white wire to 12V side of ballast resistor (the side not directly connected to the coil)

* Blue wire to coil negative terminal
Here today gone tomorrow

#36 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 05:32 AM

b to blk wht wire
C to -side coil use a EI coil. do not use the point coil.


you can use the ballast and your stock coil just hook B to the + side of the ballast the wht blk wire
then C to the - side coil


look in the HOW TO section here on electric ignition and it Moron proff
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#37 deleterius

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Posted 17 March 2015 - 03:12 PM

Banzai - Nah, got the matching EI coil, so will be bypassing the ballast.  Road - Got spark now.  Had to trace wiring back and found corrosion - but she's a sparkin' now.  Thanks guys!



#38 datO)))

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 06:20 PM

I have the matchbox as well. I took the drive gear off of the old points dizzy and ground down the shank a bit to allying the round pin.
Some concerns:
1. The main shaft has substantial "up" and "down" play now.
2. The pickup coil betheath the lobe section. Forgive my lack of proper terms, is kinda cruddy .
And when I took apart the modual, I broke the 4 terminals so soldiering is needed.
3. When I hooked it up, it didint work.( prior to taking it apart).
Some notes: I'm using the yellow accel coil.
I'm using the ballest resist.

Timing procedure: manually rotated the motor till the red mark on the crank pulley aligned to 5-7 deg. BTDC.
Reset the dizzy so the rotor points to #1 plug wire ON THE CAP!.
I'm back to the old dizzy W/ points and still no fire.
What is the proper wiring

#39 datO)))

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 07:07 PM

WIRING
------
2-wires attach to the Matchbox distributor. Connect:
* White OR Black/white wire to 12V side of ballast resistor (the side not directly connected to the coil)
* Blue wire to coil negative terminal

So was it reversed? Cause I've gone over everything and , no spark!

#40 datzenmike

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 05:56 AM

Some notes: I'm using the yellow accel coil.
I'm using the ballest resist.

Timing procedure: manually rotated the motor till the red mark on the crank pulley aligned to 5-7 deg. BTDC.
Reset the dizzy so the rotor points to #1 plug wire ON THE CAP!.
I'm back to the old dizzy W/ points and still no fire.
What is the proper wiring

 

I have zero faith in these after market coils. They are like fishing lures... they catch fishermen not fish!

 

Ground the negative side of the coil and jumper a +12 from the coil and briefly touch the positive side of the coil. When you break the connection you should get a nice fat spark from the output. At least we will know if that coil can even work.


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