My Dragon Datsun 521
Posted 25 January 2018 - 05:02 PM
Need a little help, I need to identify this transmission. I believe it is a FS5C71B.
The speedometer in Dragon reads too slow, by about 11 %, I think. The speedometer pinion currently in the transmission is a green one, 23 teeth, for a 4.875 rear axle. I think I need a 21 tooth purple gear, for a 4.375 rear axle. Part number for the pinion, 32703-86401.
Posted 26 January 2018 - 12:50 AM
I actually bought that transmission from a local Datsun dealer, in the 1970's. Nissan had only been putting five speed transmissions in Z-cars for a short while, I am not sure you could get a 620 truck with a five speed.
It was the lowest first gear ration five speed I could find.
Posted 13 March 2018 - 10:38 AM
I have been kind of ignoring Dragon while working on a L-20-B engine I got from a Pick-n-Pull in February. I have been starting it, and driving it a little, every week or two. Cars are much happier if you do not let let then sit for a long time.
Anyway, I Needed to adjust the choke cable in Dragon. I started it, drove in in my garage, and started to work on the cable. the I heard a water leak, down by the alternator. I finished the work on the cable, and let the engine cool a little. I got a light, and used a pressure tester to put some pressure on the cooling system. I found a bad lower radiator hose. Then I drained the coolant, and removed the lower radiator hose.
This is the bad hose.
I have kept old radiator hoses, and also have some new, and newer ones. I got my box of radiator hoses out of storage, and got a much better lower radiator hose.
Last December, I had put the wipers, and other stuff back in the cab of Dragon. I could not find the wiper motor that came out of Dragon, so I put another wiper motor in Dragon.
Why am I telling you this?
Because in the bottom of my box of radiator hoses was sitting the wiper motor for Dragon.
Anyway, I put the better radiator hose on Dragon, and coolant back in it, pressure tested the cooling system, and put Dragon back away.
Posted 13 March 2018 - 12:06 PM
I always buy new and have new spares ready to go. Hoses that is. been caught to often with a bad hose. I just change them inbetween other changes if Im at it . Lucky I got spare heater to head hoses also ,now they NLA
Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:53 PM
DanielC: my 1977 datsun 620 kc came with a 5 speed and my nephews 1979 s/c 620 came with a 5 speed
Posted 21 March 2018 - 08:58 AM
I took Dragon for a short drive yesterday afternoon. I got a few bales of hay from a neighbor. Dragon still needs some painting, and after moving the hay, I took the headlights, and front fenders off the truck, and the the left door. There is some bare metal on the door post, and rust under the door hinges. Since the door is off, I also removed old paint, primer, and rust off the rocker panels.
Door post. Sorry, this picture is rotated 90 degrees left.
Posted 24 March 2018 - 11:33 AM
Its too cold to put primer or paint on Dragon. But after taking a trip to Wayno's house, to get some shift levers and other parts for two five speed transmissions I recently bought, and he helped me set up the linkage on one of the transmissions, I noticed the shift lever on Dragon was really sloppy. Wayno also told me of a fix he heard of from Datzenmike, I believe of using a hardware store to get a bushing to fix shifter slop. I went to Ace Hardware, and got about $4.00 of some parts from their hardware. It was just bulk hardware, I did not get part numbers. I will try to describe the hardware so you can get it, but it helps to have the pin out of the shift lever first.
This is how I removed a lot of the slop in the shifter.
First, you need to get the seat out of the way, to get access to the plate covering the top of the transmission. My garage is too tight to remove the seat out of the truck, and it was late last night and raining, so I just raised the seat on two short pieces of 4x4 wood.
The far side of the seat on a block.
Now would be a good time to remove the shift knob,
Then remove the transmission cover plate screws, and then the cover plate.
That exposes the shift lever pivot pin.
This is the gap in the shifter with the lever moved right.
In the last picture, the pin clip is open side up, I carefully pushed it around the pin until the opening is down, with a smaller blade screwdriver. Then I used the screrwdriver to carefully pry the clip off the pin. Put the screwdriver blade in the opening of the clip, and twist the screwdriver against the pin, and the clip will come up. I also held my thumb against the clip, so to would not spring off somewhere I could not find it. Even thought the body parts of a 521 are Imperial measurements, the engine and transmission are metric, and it would be hard to find a Metric "E" clip.
With the clip off the pin, then you can start to push the pin out of the lever.
Here I am using the screwdriver to pry the pin more out of the shift lever. after the screwdriver will not move it any farther, it should come out with your fingers, or maybe a pair of pliers.
These are the parts I got at Ace Hardware. The flanged bronze bushing has nominal inside diameter of 3/8 of the inch, and an outside diameter for half of an inch. The brass washers are 5/16 inch ID, and 3/4 inch OD.
If you can take the pivot pin with you, the pin will go into the bronze bushing,
The pin will not go into the brass washers.
I used a tapered reamer to slightly open up the hole in the brass washers.
And tested the brass washers on the pin.
Then you need to use a file to remove any burrs from reaming the hole in the washers.
Then you need to modify the bushing. This is the hole on the shift lever.
and this is the bushing diameter.
The bushing is to long also, and has a flange on it. i cut the flange off with a 1/32 cutoff wheel in a die grinder,
and then cut the length of the bushing, so it could be squeezed together.
Then I used a pair of vice grips to close the gap in the bushing.
Posted 24 March 2018 - 11:39 AM
Now install the bushing in the lever. I ground a slight taper on the bushing, and started that end of the bushing onto the lever. Then I used a vise to press the modified bushing into the shift lever. This is hard to explain, but you want use some force to push the bushing in the lever, but not so much force as to damage or break the bushing. But it cannot go in too easily or the next few steps will be difficult.
This is just some excess bushing. It will be cut off with the 1/32 cutoff disk.
I used a punch and a hammer to drive the bushing all the way through the hole in the shift lever.
Then I cut the excess bushing off. try not to cut into the shift lever like I did.
After cutting the bushing, I used a file to smooth both sides of the bushing and the shift lever.
The slot cut in the bushing, and pressing it into the lever now makes the hole in the lever too small for the pin. I drilled the hole with a 23/64 drill, to provide clearance for the pin. this is why the bushing needs to be kind of tight in the shift lever, so it can be drilled without spinning in the lever hole.
Just another view of the drill in the bushing.
This is a close up of a metal drill gauge. It is really handy to have around. why did I choose a 23/64 drill? because that is the smallest holes in the drill gauge the shift lever pin would fit into.
Try to fit the pin in the bushing pressed in the shift lever. When it fits, file the sides of the shift lever again, to remove any burrs. Try the pin again, it still should go in the bushing in the lever.
Now the bushed lever can be put back in the transmission. Start the pin into the transmission lever pivot.
Put one of the brass washers on the pin.
Put the lever in the transmission with the end of the lever in the shift rod end in the bottom of the hole, and slide the pin into the lever. Then put the second brass washer in the space between the lever and the ear of the transmission pin pivot. Now the fun begins. You have to move the second washer around until it's hole lines up with the pin. I used the edge of a cold chisel to move the brass washer. the second washer need to move forward, and down to line up, in this picture.
I missed a picture, I used this chisel on the brass washer to move the washer around until the hole lined up, just like I am moving the pin clip.
It took a lot of time to get the second brass washer to where it needed to be to line up, but i got it in the correct place, after about 20 minutes.
This is just another picture of using a cold chisel to push the pin clip around.
This is a small rubber boot that goes over the shift lever, and keeps dirt and crud out of the hole the shift lever engages the shift rod in the transmission. I got it from Dick Hanna Nissan Friday March 25, 2018.
This is that boot on the transmission.
I then put the transmission cover plate with the shift boot over the shift lever. No picture of screwing it down, do you really need that?
Then I put the knob on the transmission shift lever.
Posted 27 March 2018 - 12:03 PM
I think it is going to be warm enough to paint soon. I have been sanding old paint, and primer off fenders, getting them ready to paint.
I built this fixture a few years ago, for fender work. It is reversible to work on right or left fenders.
This is the fixture from a more front angle.
A view toward the back. In the front of the picture, is a sandbag. I put the sandbag on the fixture, or the fender to hold the fender in one place while working on it.
I just support the back of the fender with some wood blocks.
This is the fender after a lot of sanding, but not done yet.
Posted 28 March 2018 - 10:06 AM
The one of the parts of the fender that still needed sanding.
These are some of the tools I use to remove paint.
Electric orbital sander.
Nylox brush. These are at Ace Hardware, in the USA. They are made of Nylon, I think, with an abrasive embedded in the nylon bristles. The bristles will go down into shallow pits pretty good, and will remove rust too. You have to keep than moving, if you stay in one place, at too high of a speed, the metal will heat up, and melt the nylon. Keeping the speed slow also helps reduce metal heating
The Nylox goes in a drill.
This is how I control the speed of the drill, this drill had a trigger lock, but it only locked at full speed.
I also use these 3M Clean and Strip disks. They remove paint, and surface rust, and also are really good at removing plastic fillers.
This is how I held the fender, to work on the top of it, using the sandbag.
The 5 inch pad on the orbital sander will not get into these low areas.
The Nylox brush will get into these tight areas.
After cleaning the low area.
Another picture of the cleaned tight area.
The Nylox brush also cleans minor surface rust good. The lower rear fender tab.
After cleaning the tab with the Nylox.
All that was yesterday.
Today was warm enough to spray primer. I drove Dragon out of the garage, to where early afternoon sun was shining. I cut a piece of cardboard to block the door opening, and then recleaned the bare metal on the lower door frame.
Then I sprayed a thin coat of rust inhibiting PPG Dx1791/Dx1792 wash primer, and let that cure for about an hour.
and then three coats of PPG Dp40LF/Dp401 epoxy primer.
When this picture was taken, Dragon was parked in the later afternoon sun.