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EPIC DIY $20 Camber Plates RATSUN STYLE ! ! !


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#21 D52E

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 04:19 PM

Nice job. One additional consideration would be to move the strut mount rearward slightly to gain a small amount of caster. Of course it may be with a slight tradeoff of increased steering effort.

#22 RedBanner

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 04:44 PM

You can slot the other 3 holes so you can rotate caster into it , but you would sacrifice alittle camber. I made some verry simular.
But I didn't bolt the strut right on. Had a hiem mount.
I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#23 dr.feltersnatch

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 05:20 PM

BTW, that guy at Everett steel is cool as shit ;)

fully agree. i have been going there since i was a little guy and he has always been there with the same classical music playin.

#24 datsunfreak

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 05:46 PM

Nice job. One additional consideration would be to move the strut mount rearward slightly to gain a small amount of caster.


But with the tires already being to close to the footwell (only made worse by a severely lowered car), wouldn't it be better to add caster by pulling the bottoms forward?

It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#25 RedBanner

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 05:53 PM

That's thinking.
I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#26 VintageRice

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 06:17 PM

fully agree. i have been going there since i was a little guy and he has always been there with the same classical music playin.

Holy crap another Arlington, wa 510 ! Horray! What car is yours? Have I seen you around?

#27 dr.feltersnatch

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 06:36 PM

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i am just down jordan rd closer to the granite side.

#28 Rustina 510

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:28 PM

Forward this to tristangrind

#29 VintageRice

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:50 PM

Forward this to tristangrind

you.






















:P

#30 Tristin

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:56 PM

Look... I'm just a machinist... I don't know what you expect me to do about... Oh wait.


:rofl:

So are people looking for sets? - is that the gist of what's going on in here?

4 doors ..... no whores :crying:

 


#31 D52E

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 07:00 AM

But with the tires already being to close to the footwell (only made worse by a severely lowered car), wouldn't it be better to add caster by pulling the bottoms forward?



Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. It would not be a one size fits all. For my combination I will be using adjustable T/C rods but I wouldn't mind some increased caster from the upper mount moved rearward.

One other relatively low cost alternative would be 240SX camber plates. Cheap eBay ones can be found for about $75. Its not as resourceful as making your own steel plates for $20 but they do have an integrated bearing.

#32 VintageRice

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:57 AM

Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. It would not be a one size fits all. For my combination I will be using adjustable T/C rods but I wouldn't mind some increased caster from the upper mount moved rearward.

One other relatively low cost alternative would be 240SX camber plates. Cheap eBay ones can be found for about $75. Its not as resourceful as making your own steel plates for $20 but they do have an integrated bearing.


Same bolt pattern as 510?

#33 D52E

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 09:14 AM

yes, they have the same 3 bolt pattern. Here is a picture of mine:
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#34 datsunfreak

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:50 PM

Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height.


Yes, but if your car is low enough, and the tires are the right diameter, they rub. :rofl:

At stock ride height the TC rod goes from a high point (radiator support) to a low point (LCA). When you lower the car even a little bit, it flattens out. Thus making it effectively longer. And it pushes the wheel back, into the footwell.

If nothing else, this needs to be addressed just to maintain something akin to the stock geometry. :thumbup:

Tilting the top back, while increasing caster, doesn't address the "problem".

It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#35 HudsonMC

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 07:14 AM

Yes, but if your car is low enough, and the tires are the right diameter, they rub. :rofl:

At stock ride height the TC rod goes from a high point (radiator support) to a low point (LCA). When you lower the car even a little bit, it flattens out. Thus making it effectively longer. And it pushes the wheel back, into the footwell.

If nothing else, this needs to be addressed just to maintain something akin to the stock geometry. :thumbup:

Tilting the top back, while increasing caster, doesn't address the "problem".


On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. I think most folks max out in the 5°-6° range.

Vintage, why not do both?

#36 RedBanner

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 08:22 AM

Becouse the grant steering wheel adapter can't take it :(
I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#37 VintageRice

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:19 AM

On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. I think most folks max out in the 5°-6° range.

Vintage, why not do both?


Cause drilling round holes is ez. Slots are not.

#38 RedBanner

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:29 AM

Drill 2 sets of holes instead of a slot? Then its got 2 castor settings.
I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#39 datsunfreak

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 03:13 PM

On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells.


If you spend enough time on a track with high speed sweepers, you wouldn't think that. But few 510 owners do, so... ^_^

"Too much" caster means when the wheel is turned, the contact patch gets smaller. Look at 80s/90s Mercedes (which run a shit ton of caster) when the wheels are turned all the way. Almost looks like it's laying the tire on it's sidewall. :o

It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#40 HudsonMC

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:48 AM

If you spend enough time on a track with high speed sweepers, you wouldn't think that. But few 510 owners do, so... ^_^

"Too much" caster means when the wheel is turned, the contact patch gets smaller. Look at 80s/90s Mercedes (which run a shit ton of caster) when the wheels are turned all the way. Almost looks like it's laying the tire on it's sidewall. :o


Depends on how much static camber you run. If you've got too much static camber, as you turn the wheel and the body rolls, then yeah, it's possible that it could be too much. One of the major benefits of caster, in addition to the steering feedback, is the camber gain with steering angle. This allows you to run less static camber. This can reduce camber thrust, improve straight line braking, etc. With anything, yeah, you can overdo it, but 5° of caster isn't all that extreme IMHO.