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Turbo Coupe B310 with A15 engine, my first project


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#681 Atomic

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 12:10 PM

I ended up frying one of the wires that goes from starter motor to alternator. I moved some wires and it happened to hit the case of the alternator while the power was still on. So it started to evaporate quite quickly, I was able to toggle the master switch off in time and it was the only wire that got damaged  :rofl: What was it again about fuses... Fuse it or lose it..

img_20180120_163958_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

I'm thinking that I should remove the whole oil cap from the top cover and relocate the oil dump system where the distributor originally was. This enables me to run the intake runners closer to valve cover and avoid hitting the hood when it's closed.

img_20180120_170127_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Made a plug with M10 bolt and nyloc nut + some rubber that I had laying around. I hope they will not get destroyed by the oil and acids that are in the crankcase  :confused:

img_20180120_171141_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

It was a really good snug fit tho, and relatively easy to pull out, and it won't drop in.

img_20180120_171155_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Also refurbished the engine to transmission mount:

img_20180120_174158_by_atomicsickness-dc


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#682 Atomic

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 12:14 PM

Oops it made a new page, I posted some megasquirt stuff on page 34 if someone missed it.


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#683 Atomic

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 01:58 PM

Bought the connector for the ignition coil and 2x 7 inch fans for the radiator

RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#684 Atomic

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 07:44 AM

I was able to weld the injector pockets to the aluminium bends, the welds aren't that pretty and I still need to continue working with the manifold runners so I'll post more pictures when I tidy them up.


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#685 Atomic

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 07:35 AM

Did some planing with the pockets:

img_20180121_112532_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

And came up with a angle of 30 degrees that I was able to use when welding the pockets to the bends, the angles held up really well and now hopefully the injectors will shoot directly to

the intake valves and now that they're a bit further away from the intake port, the fuel should have better time to mix up with the air (in theory)

 

img_20180121_114112_by_atomicsickness-dc

Made a small jig for the bends where I was able to weld the injector pockets

 

img_20180121_134036_by_atomicsickness-dc

The first pockets were quite a mess, the weld pool is hard to control with aluminium and mig combo, but really good penetration was achieved.

img_20180121_134050_by_atomicsickness-dc

first pocket, not so pretty

img_20180121_141254_by_atomicsickness-dc

but was able to improve the quality of welds later on, speed seemed to be the key for this to avoid burning through and avoid big drops

img_20180121_155240_by_atomicsickness-dc

Then cut some 40mm straight pipes 

img_20180121_165334_by_atomicsickness-dc

welded more, again, welds ain't so pretty, but they hold up and I'm going to tidy them up.

img_20180121_165837_by_atomicsickness-dc

Going to go over the valve cover like so

img_20180122_124841_by_atomicsickness-dc

was also able to machine the fuel rail

img_20180122_124851_by_atomicsickness-dc

came out really nice. Need to make some threads to ends for AN fittings

img_20180127_115045_by_atomicsickness-dc

tidying up the welds

img_20180127_115140_by_atomicsickness-dc

work in progress

img_20180127_144537_by_atomicsickness-dc

it's soon time for the plenum I guess 

 

hopefully I don't offend anyone with my aluminium welds tho  :rofl:  :rofl:


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#686 Fast720

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 08:54 AM

Hey Atomic

As long as they don't leak !!! , yes TIG welding them would result in much more control , but your doing it with what you have.

If you want them to look really nice you can spend some time cleaning them up .

 

Use a flat and 1/2 round file ,use the mini grinder to take off the mass of excess , but be careful not to go too deep.

The grinder will go past the surface of the parent metal giving you all the low areas which look bad , file them up and spot tack some weld in the low areas to make them look like one piece.

Good luck



#687 Atomic

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 09:04 AM

Hey Atomic

As long as they don't leak !!! , yes TIG welding them would result in much more control , but your doing it with what you have.

If you want them to look really nice you can spend some time cleaning them up .

 

Use a flat and 1/2 round file ,use the mini grinder to take off the mass of excess , but be careful not to go too deep.

The grinder will go past the surface of the parent metal giving you all the low areas which look bad , file them up and spot tack some weld in the low areas to make them look like one piece.

Good luck

 

Yeah, they seem to be air tight and I'm only able to use MIG at the moment. I'll be cleaning them off before I weld them to the intake flanges.

 

I'm planning to buy some sanding disks for the small air rotating tool to smooth out the rest. I'm glad that the wall thickness is 3mm so it's not so easy to cut them through  :rofl: And as for smoothing out the low spots, do you have any knowledge if some ceramic metal 2k compound can be used for such purpose? I know some that take up to 1200C in heat, but don't know how they will stick with different expansionratio than aluminium. Altho the flanges shouldn't be that hot in the first place. Ps. loving your build thread!  :thumbup:


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#688 Atomic

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:12 AM

wired the coil and mounted it to the firewall... Upside down ofc, Do'h!  :rofl: The sparkplug wire kit was quite expensive tho, it had some special mini inserts that could be only found in some early 2000 wv's. 

Sleeved more cables also:

 

img_20180128_154034_by_atomicsickness-dc

img_20180128_154041_by_atomicsickness-dc


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#689 Atomic

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 07:18 AM

I managed to mount the two 7'' fans to the original radiator, the waterpump pulley came a bit close tho, but isn't hitting anything  :thumbup:

img_20180203_113028_by_atomicsickness-dc

img_20180203_131913_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Then i was able to make the mockup mount for the slave clutch cylinder, might have a chance to test it when I get some lines done:

img_20180203_161401_by_atomicsickness-dc


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#690 Atomic

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 08:48 AM

Finally installed new brake pads to the front:

img_20180204_131352_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Also started messing with fuel regulator and AN fittings, haven't used these before, but they seem to be really good

img_20180204_143656_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Made the clutch piping ready, I only need the flexible hose for the slave cylinder and then I can start testing out the clutch mechanism

img_20180204_161147_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

+ some random photos of current situation:

img_20180204_162051_by_atomicsickness-dc

img_20180204_162100_by_atomicsickness-dc

img_20180204_162135_by_atomicsickness-dc


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#691 Atomic

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 04:28 AM

Started to make the plenum, bought 135 and 45 degree 2.5'' aluminium pipes and cut them half and came out with this kind of plenum setup:

 

img_20180212_135302_by_atomicsickness-dc


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#692 Atomic

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 07:14 AM

Cut the sides for the plenum, it's going to be roughly a bit over 1 liter in volume:

img_20180214_165528_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Also ordered new oil pressure sensor, same series than my other gauges


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#693 Atomic

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 10:36 AM

started welding the plenum:

 

img_20180217_172425_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Needs a flange for the air intake and runner plate, will continue tomorrow


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#694 Atomic

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 06:19 AM

Got one pair of intake runners welded in, used some wood to guide the the pipe to oval:

img_20180218_135844_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

It was pretty cold -7C / 19.4F inside of the warehouse where I was welding, so didn't get that far because my fingers started to freeze. I had some other problems too with allignment of the injector pockets, but I'll see what I can do with those. Also some of the injector holes still seem bit loose with bigger O-rings. I might glue the injectors to the pockets, or drill the pockets to fit ready made pockets that will utilize the normal 14.5mm O-rings.

 

img_20180218_160028_by_atomicsickness-dc


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#695 Atomic

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 07:40 AM

Sorry I have been really busy with the plasma cutter project, but it's coming together!

Here is a small peek:

img_20180401_142708_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

Also got the new autogauge oil pressure gauge and installed it next to the lambda sensor gauge:

img_20180401_163756_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

I painted the gauge ring black so it would match up with the other gauge better, came out pretty nice, i can't wait to make some custom parts with the plasma cutter for my ratsun  :thumbup:

img_20180401_165145_01_by_atomicsickness


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#696 Atomic

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 07:32 AM

Cleaned out some wires from the enginebay, doesn't seem like it, but i did!

img_20180408_164259_by_atomicsickness-dc

 

img_20180408_164328_by_atomicsickness-dc

Then I tightened the steering box screw to eliminate the horrible lack of steering output from the box. I have read tho that tightening up the screw might break down the box and wormgears, will need to see how it lasts out, but turning the screw really improved the steering. From sloppy to tight.

 

img_20180408_164352_by_atomicsickness-dc

Also connected the oil pressure sensor


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#697 datsunfreak

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 01:19 PM

Then I tightened the steering box screw to eliminate the horrible lack of steering output from the box. I have read tho that tightening up the screw might break down the box and wormgears

 

Only if you overdo it. It needs to be adjusted from time to time for even wear, but just like the rear brakes, they seldom are. 

 

Just make sure it doesn't bind as you get closer to all the way right or left. You want to adjust for the whole range of steering, not just on center. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#698 Atomic

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 09:26 PM

Only if you overdo it. It needs to be adjusted from time to time for even wear, but just like the rear brakes, they seldom are. 

 

Just make sure it doesn't bind as you get closer to all the way right or left. You want to adjust for the whole range of steering, not just on center. 

 

Bind meaning that it would essentially get stuck in some position? I'll try to recheck the whole range when I'm able to. Thanks for info  :thumbup:


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost


#699 datsunfreak

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 05:33 PM

Bind meaning that it would essentially get stuck in some position? 

 

 

Possibly, but more likely the steering just gets really heavy at the limits. Which will wear down the worm gear rapidly. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#700 Atomic

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 12:11 PM

Nothing much to post about the car atm, but during the week I'm making progress on the plasma cutter at school:

IMG-20180412-WA0004.jpeg?version=1&modif

IMG-20180412-WA0002.jpeg?version=1&modif


RULE: Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation

If it doesn't work well, chrome-plate it.

 -Maximum Boost