Atomic Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) This is quite something new to me. So is the air coming in from the valve cover and exiting at the side of the block? (normally vacuum pulled via PCV valve at the intake manifold) ? Edited March 3, 2019 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 More parts ordered. More intercooler piping, fully recirculating bypass valve, more vacuum piping and clamps. Also ordered couple more 90 degree AN6 PTFE compatible couplings. Also sent inquiry regarding some oil catch cans. Was looking some looking like this: Had a plan to pull a vacuum from before turbo compressor and insert one way valves to the system. Two catch cans, one for crankcase ventilation and other one for valve cover? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 7 hours ago, Atomic said: This is quite something new to me. So is the air coming in from the valve cover and exiting at the side of the block? (normally vacuum pulled via PCV valve at the intake manifold) ? Under part throttle when intake vacuum is present the PCV draws fresh air into the valve cover from the air filter and through the crankcase and out the vent. At heavy throttle when vacuum may be lower AND there may be too much blow-by from the rings the crankcase vapors back up and push out the valve cover hose, into the inside of the air filter and the carb sucks them in and they are burned. With a turbo it might just be easier to run the valve cover hose to a catch can. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 20 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Under part throttle when intake vacuum is present the PCV draws fresh air into the valve cover from the air filter and through the crankcase and out the vent. At heavy throttle when vacuum may be lower AND there may be too much blow-by from the rings the crankcase vapors back up and push out the valve cover hose, into the inside of the air filter and the carb sucks them in and they are burned. With a turbo it might just be easier to run the valve cover hose to a catch can. Should i just run valve cover hose and crank case hose to two separate catch cans? With both under vacuum taken from compressor inlet? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 22 hours ago, datzenmike said: Too bad there won't be a PCV valve.... Or could you run the block vent to one on the throttle chamber? It would be forced closed under boost (the PCV is a spring loaded valve) and only works under vacuum conditions. I highly recommend that everyone keep their PCVs working as it draws (very small amounts of) fresh air through the engine to displace humidity (water vapor) and combustion blow-by and keeps the oil much cleaner and less contaminated. During boost, any blow-by will come out the calve cover vent... for that use a catch can. You certainly don't want crap in your oil on a turbo. Above I was suggesting putting a PCV valve on your plenum that all cylinders can draw from. This would work exactly the same a s a carburetor set up. The PCV is a one way valve and will close under boost. If you just vent the crankcase and the valve cover, separately or together, there is no fresh air flowing through the engine. What ever fumes and moisture produced in the engine when you shut it off will just condense and mix with the oil. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 Just now, datzenmike said: Above I was suggesting putting a PCV valve on your plenum that all cylinders can draw from. This would work exactly the same a s a carburetor set up. The PCV is a one way valve and will close under boost. But that wouldn't work under boost? So wouldn't taking PCV from compressor inlet be better? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 It needs a vacuum source, a strong one like the intake. On a carburetor engine at full throttle there is pretty much no PCV because the intake vacuum is almost zero anyway. The compressor inlet is extremely weak vacuum because one end is open to atmospheric. Also fumes would get all over the turbine blades. The valves are washed clean by the injector spray. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 I will probably then have to use two can system, like presented here: works under boost and engine vacuum Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 Imagine a PCV valve set into the intake side where all the intake pipes can use it. Connect to the block vent. Somewhat like the system on the right but without the can. Engine runs exactly like it would with a carburetor when not boosting. Valve cover hose goes to a single catch can for boost only operation. Simpler, less parts, less hoses and just as effective. Number #2 above marked OEM can't be right. Valve cover fumes directed into the inter cooler??? I don't think so. The inter cooler would clog eventually. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) Wouldn't that draw oil into intake plenum when not boosted? I don't mind putting more stuff into the engine bay to keep the blowby mist from circulating back to cylinders ? Edit: i just want the ultimate system ? Edited March 3, 2019 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 At part throttle there won't be much oil mist created in the crank case and the engine will be basically operating as a stock engine would.... and the block vent is heavily baffled and screened before the PCV valve. The PCV valve is a small hole blocked by a ball bearing held closed by a spring. Intake vacuum opens it against the spring so before there is boost pressure the PCV is closed. Anything and everything has to exit the valve cover hose. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Mmm... I like your reasoning but I still want to build the double one ? I can always go back and check how much the second can really did for me and delete it if it aint worth the hazzle. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 Still waiting for some new parts, doodled with some paper and cardboard to see what I could do on the backside of turbo coupe: I think it could be fun to try a rear diffuser also with this build? Something that I can never the less take off if it doesn't seem to fit the build. Maybe not as agressive as first doodled but anyways. I took the gas tank to its place and need to drill the holes for the fuel pump assy and finish out the fuel lines. Still waiting for some connectors to arrive. 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) I just realized that only few more steps for engine start: Plenum ends need to be blocked IAC valve for the setup Cold side intercooler piping Intake manifold needs a bit of polishing and patching Routing a throttle cable O2 sensor to the downpipe Turbo water inlet fittings Dangerously close! 😄 I need a bit more money to buy the necessary stuff. Possibility to start in next month?! Edited March 11, 2019 by Atomic 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Got the hot side of intercool piping done: Bought a GFB D+ by-pass valve to do the job: Got a bunch of new fittings too. Will be drilling the tank today and hopefully finishing the fuel line system all in all 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Got the retrofit kit fuel pump mocked and all the fuel lines are now done: I should probably be drilling another hole next to the fuel pump assembly for future fuel level sender assembly. Also the tank needs new breather hoses so I'll be welding some AN4 plugs to it. I will check if I have any suitable sheet metal for the rear light panels. If I do, I will do cutouts for the new rear lights. Otherwise I will probably continue by grinding the plenum and making the endcaps for it. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Took the wiring harness off from the old lamp assembly. Oddly enough the bulb sockets screwed on quite happily, so I was able to have visual stimulation: Tried also the chrome bumper on: But it was for some reason too far away from the body, the sides gave it away too much. So I decided to take a look how the supports are holding up and this came up: I also managed to drill out the end caps for the plenum, was left wondering where I had the intake manifold brake booster fitting. I'm able to get sheet metal for next weekend for the tail light panels. Will continue more tomorrow \o/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 Blocked the throttle body IAC opening by inserting a silicone hose into the front hole and used a self tapping screw to seal it completely: I left the other path open because then I'll be able to use 2-pin IAC from volvo 740 for example and make flanged fitting that will bolt into the IAC surface on the throttle body. The only IAC modules that were available were 4 pins ones, and I'm only able to control a 2 pin one, too bad i guess. But modifications are not anything new in this thread. Speaking of modifications, the tail light swap took another step, I had such a large grin on my face when I put the lamp into position 😄 I didn't bother to cut out the old frame out to reuse it later if I want to convert back. What holds me back the most in creating something new is the fear that I might make something ugly or non functioning. But this I have to say it came out really nice. The other hole was cut out with a bi-metal circular saw, but i busted it before i could do the other one... So I used my small dremel with a cutting wheel to make the other one, both came out pretty nice. I'm planning to have the rear panel to be black while the rest of the car would be blue (maybe?) 😄 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 Looking nice! 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 Got the other side on too: That's hot! 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 Dude... That came out even more awesome than I thought it would... 👍 1 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 I wish I had posted that. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 Dang.. does look good! 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 Moved the bumper back about 32 mm (quite a lot). Now there is a 10 mm gap between the body and the bumper and it looks so much better than the original imo. Also no regrets: 3 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 (edited) Cleaned off the rust from the tank surface and then painted it with hammer paint with gloss black finish: Also bought AN3 fittings for the clutch lines. I need to buy few more fittings to finish out the plenum. Also I have been looking for devcon epoxy steel putty for sealing the intakemanifold off. Seems pretty expensive, but also pretty good stuff for high temperature and has chemical resistance. Edited March 24, 2019 by Atomic 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.