Atomic Posted January 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2019 Started doing the scary part, intake manifold: I used magnetic block to hold the piping within level: That way it was way easier to make some small welds to hold the intake system in a place. I think I got everything pretty leveled, should have also the correct length between injector pockets corresponding to the fuel rail I don't think I'll be able to finish these this weekend, I don't have enough time on my hands at the moment. But hey, at least the scary part is over soon. I'll go and test fit the injectors if I can and see how well they match. I Also need to think about how to bolt the fuel rail into the manifold. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted January 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2019 Seems to fit. I had some issues when welding pipes 1-2 to the flange. The pipe 1 warped in the process and I need to cut it off and start again.. I swear this is the most tedious phase ever.. I will be so happy when I'm done with the intake manifold, its really the worst.. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted January 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Got myself new custom rear springs. I should now have 4kg at front and 3.4kg at rear (worn out ones are old cut rear springs): Hopefully i can test fit those tomorrow Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 Got the springs installed, they fit nicely. Need to install shocks tomorrow, they arrived late today Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2019 New shocks came in, and oh boy they're nice! 18+18 adjustability for compression and rebound: And they fit perfectly on the datsun! I also saw'd the intake manifold yet again and started welding again. Thus far everything is going nicely, more pics later 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2019 I'm so happy with the results. I will do a lot of clean and polish on the intake manifold still. I wasn't able to weld between the two pipes so well, so I'll be using some heat/chemical resistant 2-component epoxy to seal everything, or weld it from the inside once I have ported the flanges Also need to weld the fuel rail mounts to the manifold too. The plenum is looking like this at the moment: It's missing some 6-8 mm plate to adapt the throttle body and then I need to drill holes for the intake runners. Then I need to make sensor adapter etc Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 Eyy, it's weekend again! Got 8mm thick aluminium plate and drilled a 55mm hole at the center and thread tapped 4 holes for M6 bolts. Welded it up and mocked the pipes with some tape to see how it would look: The plenum will get shortened next and then I need to drill holes for the over going pipes. Then I need to figure out some supports for the plenum because it's getting quite heavy with the throttle body. Started cleaning the smaller pipes a bit before welding them in, will continue more tomorrow! 2 Quote Link to comment
Maschinenbau Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 Amazing and creative work with that intake. I know aluminum is hard to work with. It almost looks like there's room for a top-mount intercooler above the valve cover, between the two sets of bends. Of course that would mean welding 4 inlets and 4 outlets to a single intercooler, and needing an electric cooling fan above or below it, or possibly a Subaru-style hood scoop... That would also decrease the overall distance the air needs to travel from compressor to cylinder head, which means faster response. Anyway keep up the good work. This has great potential. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 26 minutes ago, Maschinenbau said: Amazing and creative work with that intake. I know aluminum is hard to work with. It almost looks like there's room for a top-mount intercooler above the valve cover, between the two sets of bends. Of course that would mean welding 4 inlets and 4 outlets to a single intercooler, and needing an electric cooling fan above or below it, or possibly a Subaru-style hood scoop... That would also decrease the overall distance the air needs to travel from compressor to cylinder head, which means faster response. Anyway keep up the good work. This has great potential. Cheers! It wasn't the first try and has been on going project for around 1 year. Sadly that isn't the case since the piping is almost at its limit where I currently have them. If you would be able to squeeze intercooler there, it would mean that the intake should run really close to the valve cover. I think I will cover up the 'lag' in the future, I have a lot of ideas to add more power + complexity to this build once I get it on the road! Love your work too, I like how you were able to make multilink suspension at the rear, I have butchered two of the wagons you have currently, the engine is from one of those. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Made some progress again for the plenum: I need to do touch ups for the welds, but its starting to take its final shape 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) Need to order more AN fittings. I'm planning to run hard lines from and back to the fuel tank, they're fully anodized in and out and compatible with RE85. And I swear that 1/4 thread fits the turbo water inlets, but I'm starting to lean towards AN4 fitting because of the cone, any ideas? Mangled the manifold into better shape, but still needs a lot of work. Wired the injectors tho: Will be buying a long neck grinder so I can port the whole intake system: Also also, changed the title of the thread. I have some future plans that will make it sound even cooler ? (still lots of empty room in the engine bay...) Edited February 10, 2019 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) List to buy: AN6 to 3/8'' aluminiumpipe 4 AN6 straight PTFE 6 AN6 180 PTFE 1 AN6 3/8'' NPT 2 AN6 PTFE Nylon hose 2(m) AN6 Weld plug (steel) 2 And then 10m of anodized aluminium hardline. That should cover everything about the fuel delivery and return to tank, hmm.. Edited February 10, 2019 by Atomic 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Sketched out a holder for the fuel rail: And hood still goes shut well: Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Used the new long neck air tool to make the air outlets flush to the inner walls: And got more argon: 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Cut the fuel tank finally open to see how it looks like: Doesn't seem to be that badly rusted, maybe a treatment similar to POR15 will do the trick? I had some soapy water when I did the cutting, the bottom of the tank seems to have some black sludge ? Plus the return line has some fungus?! Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted February 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 Hmm, I cannot seem to find any suitable 2 wire PWM IAC modules for the throttle body that I currently have. I was thinking if I should just buy a cheap one that is commonly used for example in volvo 740. That would mean to block off the one in the throttle plate and make an additional routing to the plenum for the valve. ? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 Bought roughly 300 USD worth AN fittings and fuel lines: Started inserting the 5 m long anaconda into engine bay: Also had an idea to rotate the injectors to point downwards so I can route the fuel line on top: Got two hardlines going to the tank routed. Need to buy something that I can secure them safely to the bottom of the car It was the smallest available line for AN fittings (3/8'') and my pump can deliver up to 700hp with ethanol, so atleast the fuel side should be fine ? Still need to put the fittings to the ends of the lines at the tank end. Started routing vacuum reference lines too and cleaned up the engine bay again a bit Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) Some random shots: Also welded the tank shut: I had the tank filled with 30 liters of water while welding. After that I flipped the tank and located few pinholes that leaked water through. Nothing major really, rest of the tank is holding up great too. Will continue more next weekend Edited March 2, 2019 by Atomic 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 Can you get the valve cover cap off to add oil? I know this 'contraption' ? will work as well as those on Engine Porn. Looks are only skin deep anyway. This looks functional, utilitarian, like it means business, a diamond in the rough, making 7 the hard way.... running out of metaphors here but I mean this in a nice way. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Can you get the valve cover cap off to add oil? I know this 'contraption' ? will work as well as those on Engine Porn. Looks are only skin deep anyway. This looks functional, utilitarian, like it means business, a diamond in the rough, making 7 the hard way.... running out of metaphors here but I mean this in a nice way. Yes! You can open it up and wiggle it off quite easily ? I was quite surprised that I don't have to modify it. I do have to move the breather hose connection tho. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 The breather is probably baffled so just relocating to the side might not work. You'll figure it out. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 32 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The breather is probably baffled so just relocating to the side might not work. You'll figure it out. I'll probably modify the other valve cover that I have removed at the moment and do some surgery on that. What I remember there was some splash plate covering the vent Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 Yeah a baffle to give the oil fog from the valve train a surface and space to settle out of the air and drip back to the pan. The L series have something similar. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 13 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Yeah a baffle to give the oil fog from the valve train a surface and space to settle out of the air and drip back to the pan. The L series have something similar. Any idea if I should keep the crankcase and valvecover ventilation separate or can I merge them to breath out to same location, oil catch can for example? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 Too bad there won't be a PCV valve.... Or could you run the block vent to one on the throttle chamber? It would be forced closed under boost (the PCV is a spring loaded valve) and only works under vacuum conditions. I highly recommend that everyone keep their PCVs working as it draws (very small amounts of) fresh air through the engine to displace humidity (water vapor) and combustion blow-by and keeps the oil much cleaner and less contaminated. During boost, any blow-by will come out the calve cover vent... for that use a catch can. You certainly don't want crap in your oil on a turbo. 1 Quote Link to comment
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