Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project

[datsunfreak]

On 11/23/2018 at 1:24 AM, Atomic said:

 But would need to modify for mounting points and such? 

 

There will likely be some modifications involved, yes.  

 

On 11/23/2018 at 1:24 AM, Atomic said:

And the maintenance would be always a pain ?

 

Not all all. They make a kit to mount the bleeder externally that actually makes it's easier to bleed/flush than the stock Datsun bits. 

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/Howe/505/8287/10002/-1

[Atomic]

On 11/24/2018 at 4:31 PM, datsunfreak said:

 

There will likely be some modifications involved, yes.  

 

 

Not all all. They make a kit to mount the bleeder externally that actually makes it's easier to bleed/flush than the stock Datsun bits. 

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/Howe/505/8287/10002/-1

Quite expensive kit overall with the modifications. I'll see what I'm able to do with the wilwood one and if that doesn't work, then I just have to try what you have suggested, thanks!

[Atomic]

Hurrayy, I got the new Wilwood slave sylinder working. The clutch is quite firm and semi hard to press. But to remember that I have a flat flywheel surface and stiffer clutch plate kit so it's fine imo. I will have a winter holiday after one week so then I'll hopefully be able to finish up the intake manifold and build up the exhaust system. We'll see if I get it running by the end of this year or something. No promises yet

[Atomic]

Got new parts, such as these fender covers:

 

And started making the plenum from aluminium:

 

Also bought riveting pliers or what they're called:

 

Inserted new M6 threaded nuts to the fender arc because the old ones were worn out:

 

Also bought a lot of brake stuff, started routing the brake lines to the front brakes. I drilled a 10mm deep hole to the small bump on the back of the strut and threaded a M6 to it so I have a mounting point for the T-piece:

 

Wheel not in place yet, but just a broader view of the whole setup:

 

 

[Atomic]

Got a big packet:

 

Full of 3'' stainless steel exhaust system, with magnaflow mufler. I also have two V-band flanges for the exhaust system. I drilled out the turbo flange:

 

And then started tack welding the turbo downpipe with TIG:

 

Clearing the steering assembly pretty well, I can still bend the pipe a bit to clear the engine and transmission, even tho there is 5-7 mm of space between. Going to wrap up the downpipe with exhaust tape anyways to redirect heat away from the engine bay

 

[datzenmike]

On 12/18/2018 at 11:03 AM, Atomic said:

 

 

And started making the plenum from aluminium:

 

 I think the plenum needs to be a much larger internal volume. There are on line calculators for this and a lot of theory behind it. Also consider flairs or trumpets on the ends of the individual pipes.

 

 

I drilled a 10mm deep hole to the small bump on the back of the strut and threaded a M6 to it so I have a mounting point for the T-piece:

 

 

 

 I think the plenum needs to be a much larger internal volume. There are on line calculators for this and a lot of theory behind it.

 

 

The little 'bump' you drilled is where the strut fits the lathe so the spindle can be turned.

[Atomic]

25 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

 I think the plenum needs to be a much larger internal volume. There are on line calculators for this and a lot of theory behind it.

 

 

The little 'bump' you drilled is where the strut fits the lathe so the spindle can be turned.

 

Huh, I thought that the plenum volume should be about 50-70% of engine volume as quoted from maximum boost ''The plenum volume should be a function of engine displacement - in general, 50-70%'' Am I misunderstanding the statement? I wasn't sure if it was 1.70 times or 0.7 of engine capacity. I'm going to roll with that plenum as time being tho and see how it will go. Also I'm running really long runners, so wouldn't smaller plenum make more sense?

 

And huh, that's a nifty information, didn't know about that!

Edited December 21, 2018 by Atomic
Added a note about runner length

[datzenmike]

Sticks out to the front and back too much?  Maybe shorter in length and concentrate the volume around where the inlets join it? 

[Atomic]

3 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Sticks out to the front and back too much?  Maybe shorter in length and concentrate the volume around where the inlets join it? 

 

Oh yeah it does, It's going to be shorter for sure, it's a work in progress picture after all ? I'm going to drill holes to the top side of the plenum and have angled pipes coming out to the other side and maybe having the air temperature sensor plug welded  to one end of the manifold

[datzenmike]

Oh hell then.... carry on!!! ?

[Atomic]

Got the anaconda mockup ready:

 

It can be easily dropped in from above:

 

Got barely legal ground clearance (which is 80 mm)

 

Just need to shorten the threads on the wilwood slave cylinder:

 

No issues elsewhere:

 

And I ran out of argon, so I need to get more next week or wait till next year... I have two empty bottles ready to be filled up. Continued more on the brakes, passenger side done:

[datzenmike]

 

I see the bleeder on the other side. I guess it connects across the top to let bubbles out from both sides? These look somewhat like Toyota 4x4 calipers from the mid '80s.

[Atomic]

12 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

I see the bleeder on the other side. I guess it connects across the top to let bubbles out from both sides? These look somewhat like Toyota 4x4 calipers from the mid '80s.

Yeah, they're 4 piston calipers from turbo Volvo 240 and have the same bolting points that datsun b310 front struts have. The center hubs have to be modified before installation tho

[Atomic]

Took the old fuel and brakeline out from the car and added two rear brakelines. I need to buy the fuel line pretty soon too.

 

[Atomic]

Hmm I need to remember this when routing waterlines to the turbo:

Source: https://gcg.com.au/component/rsticketspro/view-article/18-water-cooled-turbos-they-need-water

[Atomic]

I have to think about taking the radiator to a radiator repair shop so that they could make me some additional hose fittings for the turbo water outlets and the core would need replacing too. I was also testing the new silicone intercool piping that I got, just need an adapter from 2.5 to 2.75'' to complete this side:

[datzenmike]

What about using the heater hose connections? Already there. OR....

 

 

Looks like the intake may have been water cooled? Drill and tap your new intake just below one of the pair of runners to feed into the turbo and the outlet just needs to T into the heater return hose right there. I know this by-passes the rad but I doubt it flows a huge amount of water.

[Atomic]

On 12/24/2018 at 4:28 PM, datzenmike said:

What about using the heater hose connections? Already there. OR....

 

 

 

Looks like the intake may have been water cooled? Drill and tap your new intake just below one of the pair of runners to feed into the turbo and the outlet just needs to T into the heater return hose right there. I know this by-passes the rad but I doubt it flows a huge amount of water.

 

That is true. I'm not sure If there is enough room to tap into, nor if I would like to tap into 10 mm thick aluminium. I could do inserts with adapter plates into there, but not sure if that would flow enough water through turbo or know if it's a good idea to use already heated water to cool of the turbo. The heater route is with similar story, I'm not sure if I should use hot water inlet for the turbo, but this route would seem to be good for the flow tho (As would get the water feedline from the back of the engine and return it to mix with the cooled water going to the water pump).

 

Might go with the T-split from the heater core lines as suggested, maybe I'm overthinking the amount of heat it gives, I mean atleast the engine would warm up sooner and the thermostat and radiator will balance things out in the end ('hot' water from turbo coming to water pump and 'cooling' cylinder walls).

[datzenmike]

Hot and cold is relative. The water flowing from the rad back into the engine is anything but COLD!!! Engine (hot) water will be about 185F. Water that's 185F is actually quite cool for a hot turbo. 

 

There's no way to flow (cold) return water from the rad without a pump anyway.

 

Are you planning any oil cooler for the engine? This is another method of removing excess heat.

[Atomic]

10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Hot and cold is relative. The water flowing from the rad back into the engine is anything but COLD!!! Engine (hot) water will be about 185F. Water that's 185F is actually quite cool for a hot turbo. 

 

There's no way to flow (cold) return water from the rad without a pump anyway.

 

Are you planning any oil cooler for the engine? This is another method of removing excess heat.

That's true, the water flow from the cylinder head is probably the best option for the turbo water inlet. 

 

I'm not adding an oil cooler yet, but if I do, I will do one with a thermocouple that let's the oil through once it reaches certain temperature so that the oil can maintain the operating temp. Would need an additional pump for that to scavenge the oil from the pan, but that's not a problem. 

[datzenmike]

I've thought of running an oil feed line through a small oil cooler before the turbo. Maybe on the other side of the engine low down where there's lots of air movement and run the line over to the turbo side. 

 

Just for fun (and I had the parts from a zx turbo) I put an oil cooler on my L20B. Hottest the return oil got was 190 but I'm going to re-wire it and the oil pressure gauge as one reads lower when you turn the headlights on. Something not right there.

[Atomic]

3 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I've thought of running an oil feed line through a small oil cooler before the turbo. Maybe on the other side of the engine low down where there's lots of air movement and run the line over to the turbo side. 

 

Just for fun (and I had the parts from a zx turbo) I put an oil cooler on my L20B. Hottest the return oil got was 190 but I'm going to re-wire it and the oil pressure gauge as one reads lower when you turn the headlights on. Something not right there.

 

I think I might want to cool off the whole oil pool so that the whole engine will benefit from it, not just the turbo. That's why I was thinking about running it from the pan, since the turbo dumps the hot oil into the pan anyways. Again, not sure weather it will affect much but still. But if I'm facing some thermal issues, I will surely refurbish the radiator as its fins are not in the perfect shape and I could have a thicker core in it.

 

Huh, that is indeed strange electrical issue. Rewiring might help as you said. I'm doing an additional fusebox for my new gauges and running big positives to it to supply enough current for all the little things that are installed and I have plans in the future

[datzenmike]

Absolutely! It was more of a thought experiment although you could do both as you have to plumb oil to the turbo anyway. Even a longer copper line with coils like a still. ?

[Atomic]

Just now, datzenmike said:

Absolutely! It was more of a thought experiment although you could do both as you have to plumb oil to the turbo anyway. Even a longer copper line with coils like a still. ?

Yes, and oil cooler is adding atleast +15hp from its looks ?

[Atomic]

I haven't had much time to do the car due to holidays. Today I painted the new rear brake calipers with caliper spray:

And bought some brake line holders, but they were orange so I had to repaint them black because I want to have them inside of the engine bay

Then I drilled and tapped a 1/8 thread to the heatercore inlet that goes into the cylinder head and inserted temperature gauge probe to it