Atomic Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 I'm missing some headlight adjustment screws for my 310, was wondering if someone knows if these (720 Pickuop) will fit tho: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Headlight-Adjust-screws-plastic-lock-spring-set-for-Datsun-720-Pickup-/272188899963?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item3f5fb9027b:g:VoQAAOSwxp9W96Dw&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Picture time:So I bought the 25mm thick spacers. Their outer diameter is going to be a small issue (150mm original): So I made a smaller one, reducing the diameter to 146mm, so need to have the spacer turned in a lathe when they arrive, no biggie, should have enough wall thickness anyways.. Then I moved the engine mounts back 3cm because of the clearance issues with tranny case and center link Should not be a problem anymore! :thumbup: Photo taken when the wheel is rotated all the way to the right, it's traveling same ammount when going to left too, so should be good to go! And damn the motor looks smexy there! *drool* had some clearance issues with turbo and the left hand side engine bay wall, so I'm gonna shave some material off from the turbo (big bulky identification plate) Should be fine after that, more pics tomorrow! Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Is there a welder local to you? That could maybe help with the adaptor plate? It is very doable however alum that thick should be heated prior to tig or mig. Plus it loves to be a super clean process any contamination will result in swearing Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Is there a welder local to you? That could maybe help with the adaptor plate? It is very doable however alum that thick should be heated prior to tig or mig. Plus it loves to be a super clean process any contamination will result in swearing Yes, I have contacted some local welding companies and have been asking how much would it cost to do the job, will update on this reply when I got some answers o/ Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 So I hammered the engine bay a bit to make the turbo fit, and now it has plenty of space and I managed to survive with minor paint repairs B) And I still have plenty of space for clearing out the steeringbox and downpipe: Gonna try to bring the pipe down to the ex engine mount place, then under the steel tube and have a flex joint aprox where tranny starts Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Gonna try to bring the pipe down to the ex engine mount place, then under the steel tube and have a flex joint aprox where tranny starts That steel tube is the crank-case breather ... you can probably re-route it, so it's not in your way as much. The whole tube should be removeable, so you can weld it away from the motor. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 That steel tube is the crank-case breather ... you can probably re-route it, so it's not in your way as much. The whole tube should be removeable, so you can weld it away from the motor. I ment the watertube that is attached to the block, it has a outlet to the heater. The loose steel tube is just old hydraulic tube for the tranny Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Chrome bumpers to front and to the rear: Also the spacers arrived today, need to modify them a bit tho Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Sixity spacers? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Sixity spacers? SteyrTek Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Ah, look like the ones I picked up from sixity. But I guess they all kinda look similar anyways huh? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Ah, look like the ones I picked up from sixity. But I guess they all kinda look similar anyways huh? Almost all the same :rofl: Just branding~ 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 More pics:spacers now fit better: Tested some rims too (14X6 ET 38) Looks fine for me, but I'm looking forward the 885 RS Gold rims (16x7 ET 20), need to order one of those and have it test fit Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 More pics: Took the rear axle finally out, need to build somekind of jig for it to make all the connection arms fit the volvo rear axle 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 I think I might have to widen up the rear body because the rims that I want, aren't probably going to fit with the new rear axle, hmm.. :confused: Oh well, gonna get some steelpipes for the jig tomorrow Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 Started working on the frame of the jig with 22x2mm pipe: The jigs dimensions are 130x33cm 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 More pics:So I tested the Jig with L shape irons to hold the axle in place, but it seemed too difficult to align that damn thing: Aligning with laser: So I cut the L irons off: Glimpse on Volvos axle, has been rusting a bit.. Made the new holders just flat: And I didn't know that the axle isn't symmetric, as show in photo, the laser will go to the nut of the tranny, and the black line drawn is the centerpoint from the sides, volvos axle had this too, with same dimension: Jig done: Lower joint holders: Upper joint holders: Got the two upper joints disconnected from the axle, it was getting late and didn't wanna disturb the neighbors anymore :D Its getting messy in here... :rofl: :rofl: Also the lower joints are prolly going to be pain in the ass to cut out of the frame, ugh, tomorrow we'll see.. Would be easy if i had plasma cutter... Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 And next axle to the jig: I decided to cut the hubs of because it was taking so much longer to bolt those fckers off :rofl: :rofl: also made it 100% easier to remove the lower joints: still need to remove the spring pads, but they can be like that for now, I need to work with the other axle first... Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Volvos tranny to the jig: All welded up: Decent welds: Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Its happening :w00t: also, cup holder: Now to order some rims and then maybe buy some Golf I rear bow to widen up the rear some 5-10cm. These test rims had offset of 20 or so, the ones that I'm going to order, have 35, so it's going to move in 15mm. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Does anyone have an idea where to get polyurethane bushings for the H150/H140 rear axle linkages? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Does anyone have an idea where to get polyurethane bushings for the H150/H140 rear axle linkages? Just a thought... :devil: 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 So I bought the Golf 1 rear thingies: Doesn't look bad imo B) And the bumpsteer spacers arrived, thanks to techotoytuning! Now i just need some rims to fit them with :w00t: should be here on monday or tuesday. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I'm restauring the heater core unit, found a big stone inside of it :rofl: :rofl: The foam seems to be broken, I'm just wondering if it's just normal foam or what should I use as a replacement? :confused: Quote Link to comment
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