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1987 4Runner 1st Gen. **original owner**


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I am the original owner of my 296,00 mile Toyota 4Runner SR5 Deluxe. Its been in the family since new and has been an unbelievable truck. For its time it had all the cool options; power windows, power locks, auto hubs, tilt steering, inclinometer, etc. No AC though, I added it in though. The rear shell has never been off, not once. I can't tell you how many times I've been asked to sell her. No can do. This is my typical DD. It's seen some very minor unpaved duty in its life but primarily is an asphalt queen.

After 25 years of service and 297,000 miles later, she deserves some new life. Only real issues with it since new was broken plastic timing guides, 1 fried clutch and 1 fried water pump. Other things here and there, but that's really it. It goes, and goes and goes. The beuaty of owning this truck, all the previous owner crap work is mine. I know everything that's been changed or modified.

Current mods include
LC fuel enrichment module
Innovate wideband
30x10.5 tires
Supra AFM Mod
Nology wires
manual hub swap
2nd Gen V6 brake booster and master cylinder
Doug Thorley Tri-Y header and full exhaust
2nd Gen. upper intake and throttle body conversion
Marlin Crawler trans (rebuilt when changed clutch)
LED interior light conversion
Rear leaf spring leveling lift
RV Cam, .415 lift I think it is.
There's more...

Well, it's tired. It started leaking coolant behind the timing cover. To fix this, either head has to come off or the oil pan dropped. Neither much fun on a 22RE 4x4 in my opinion. Did a compression test 150/130/150/150, leakdown with oil raised it up, but still greater than 10% to cylinder #2. She still starts easily, runs strong, but I gotta add like 1-1/2" quarts of coolant after about 40 miles. So after a month of back and forth indecisiveness, I pulled the trigger.

This is what showed up yesterday:
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Specs are something like this:

Bored .020" over
Fully balanced including balancer and flywheel
New head, ported with 2mm oversize stainless valves
new RV cam, .425 lift
Pre-run. Shipped with spec sheets and balance papers. 190 psi on each cylinder now.

Freaking thing better pass smog or I'm going propane. Pretty stoked. They used a Victor Reinz rebuild kit. Not sure if you know or care but VR are MAHLE products aka an OEM manufacturer. Some of the best around in my opinion.

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That is this weekends plan...I hope. Now, I gotta offload it out of the Colorado.

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I'll get some pics, nothing special though.

 

Well the removal started today. Pretty straight forward so far. I'll let the pictures do the talking here.

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Every engine removal should start with these. High visibility when you go to put everything back together but also doesn't soak oil like tape, easy to fasten, easy to take off.

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Radiator and stuff removed, free Rock Auto advertising:

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Easiest way to loosen crank bolt. Put it on, disable engine, bump starter so bar rests against frame and loosen crank bolt.

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If I'm uncertain if something will be forgotten of where something goes, I take a picture on or near where it goes.

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See that big discolored spot?

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This where it all started. Coolant leak behind the timing cover. No way yo fix without removing head or oil pan.

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Can you believe this pics were all taken with this 8+ year old camera? It's one of the best one's I have owned regarding resolution, etc. for the garage. http://store.sony.co...DSCP73#features

 

Stopped here to go eat bird. This was about 3 hours of work. It should be out tomorrow.

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Yeha, those zip ties rule.

 

Moar progress.

 

Intake side off. YES ITS A FRAM, heavy duty that is. During this time, I was doing an engine cleaning with Auto-RX. No need for the good one during this.

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Freaking upper trans bolts are a pain. This was the easy one.

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Sneaky. Thermal tab to let them know motor overheated, warranty protector.

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BEST SEALER HANDS DOWN FOR ANY MOTOR! It also comes orange for other applications.

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Bummed. Broke the VSV. There's supposed to be a vent to the right of that blue part. Part NLA. Oh well, ebay here I come.

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Well Saturday and Sunday panned out like this:

 

Friend of mine brought over his pretty well semi-stock 15 year owned S13 for a full suspension rubber renewal underneath front and rear. Car is clean, minor tasteful mods.

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Thought I should rebuild my starter solenoid.

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25 year old contacts. Fawk, less than a mil left on the line side.

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Helping do some S13 work. Pressing NISMO bushings.

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Transferring the stuff required from old to new with the obligatory cleaning in between.

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RIP.

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Dudes gotta eat.

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And it's time.

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Wiggle, wiggle.

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New home.

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Bolted up the hood, buttoned up for the day. Maybe got 20 hours into it now but that includes being dumb meticulous, chatting and general porn watching.

 

And a dear friend of mine who helped drop in my motor also dropped this off...BLING.

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It works well. I've always done it this way. It makes it easy to do, leaves no residue, oil resistant depending on pen, and makes it easy to identify if you missed putting a wire back.

 

No real progress yet, just being lazy. Maybe this weekend. I did get all my Remflex so I should just do that already.

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Alright, a little progress.

 

Make valve cover pretty.

 

Soaked it in purple power for a few days, then stripped it down. Filed down some of the real nasty areas.

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POR-15 Self etch primer:

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3 coats of dupli-color hi-temp red

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If you look closely, you'll see the bolts and washer I left on. As soon as I'm done with spraying, I pull them all out . This leaves the washer surface bare (and keeps threads clean) so that when you go to tighten things back down, you don't crack your fresh paint.

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Final product, me thinks it looks rather delicious.

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Remflex stuff also got here.

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More to come.

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Next up will be to convert a Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest junk yard electric fan into fully functioning 4x4 unit. Want to remove load from clutch fan and also help out my A/C on those days above 100 degrees.

 

Start with this:

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And somehow get this to fit (Radiator is under it):

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Gotta go drinking and act like a immature adult, but will post more later.

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