jesusno2 Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 If anyone has a ign module let me know I'm thinking its going bad. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 I'm about ready to light this car on fire and push it off a cliff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 If anyone has a ign module let me know I'm thinking its going bad. If its the regular black box on the side of the distributor, it can be pilfered from almost any late 70s Datsun. You can also use a GM ignition module and mount it on the strut tower. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I want a 2dr 210, and damnit, I was just at the JY today and one was there... didnt check under the hood since I dont check a series cars... Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Those ignition modules interchange between which cars. I gotta get this thing going ASAP my 720 is on its last legs and I have a 12v ka ready for it so I need something to drive. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I believe any 4cyl datsun with a matchbox. Its the same module as whats on the L20b matchbox and I think some of the Z series too. Also 6cyl Z car. Main thing to look for, Make sure the module says "E12-80" on it. You DO NOT want "E12-93" Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 gotta ask, whats the difference? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Physically, there are 2 more pins "I" and "W". I think they mostly were on the 280ZX... When plugged into your car, it will likely retard timing. It simply will not run right, if you even get it to idle. E12-93 E12-80 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted March 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Well swapped modules with a brand new one same shit just like clock work it starts acting up aprox 10 miles from my house almost in the same spot of road. I'm gonna pull the coil off my 720 and try it on the 210. The coil is testing fine but I can't test it when it starts the bogging and jerking. Very frustrating problem Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 just like clock work it starts acting up aprox 10 miles from my house almost in the same spot of road. Easy fix. Don't drive by that spot. :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Ha ha ha ha tried it didn't work haven't tried the coil yet. Doubt its the problem. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 So swapped to a new coil today didn't help. I've ruled out the ignition system. Back to fuel delivery gonna try another fuel pump. Its about the only thing left to try that could be giving me such goofy results. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 new pump no difference. Now im gonna re route fuel lines possible vapor lock? dunno. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 You should just swap in a KA :lol: Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So the metal fuel lines on a A15 have T junction in them I dunno how fuel can return through the feed line, but anyways with the weber those metal fuel lines and T junction restrict the flow to much and starves it for fuel apperentley. I removed them, and drove to work and back today and around elsewhere this past weekend with just a 1/4 fuel line dead headed into the weber. Works fantastic now. Such a crazy problem I've had to hunt down. So weird how consistent it was. Now just need to hunt down that crazy wobble it has about 40 to 50 mph. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 Steering wheel wobble? Check your front end, wheel bearing> warp brake rotors> wheels out of balance/out of round. Check in that order, should be simple enough but can cause some damage long term and big repair bill. Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 also excess wear on tires. that will jack up the steering at high speeds. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 As well as worn out ball joints. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Congrats on figuring it out. Those baffling issues are lame. :) Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 The whole car wobbles I had the tires re balanced rotors are fine etc feels like a driveshafy sorta kinda but the u joints seem fine etc. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 check the steering box Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Little update here. new wheels & tires, gonna put insome new ball joints, and bushing's & get a alignment this week then see how it drive's. Wheels are vintage enkie 92'S. 15x7 +20 fronts 0 offset rear 195 50 15 tires. Was even able to modify the clips to from the stock 210 steelies to fit the 92'S going to have to roll fender lips for sure. . Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 2 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 So since i had a extra set of 200sx lower control arms, I though let's experiment a little. 210's stock have a horrible + camber issue and i hate + camber. So the car has stock struts and i just cut the springs a little to lower it some, which helped the camber a little, but since these arms are basically scrap figured lets section em and see if we can get this front end in the - camber zone without camber plates etc. I,ll keep ya'll posted on what my alignment specs are tomorrow eve when it goes up on the rack. 1 Quote Link to comment
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