wead Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Looked at all your stuff on ebay.. got anything for 610/180b's in the works? Yes, we are looking into extending our range to include 610/180b what rust repair sections would you like to see ? Quote Link to comment
wead Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Update 510 rear wheel arch sheetmetal repair patch will be available soon. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 One observation on that replacement dogleg..You have to weld it directly on that inside radius, (along the upper edge) so it is going to be somewhat difficult to file the welds down and get that radius looking like it was a factory job. It can be done, but it's a LOT of filing to make it look correct. I'd personally try to find a donor and replace the entire section due to the finish work after it was welded in. I would recommend completing the inside (or upper) radius and extend the material to join into the flat section of the sill. It would be MUCH easier and faster to cut and fit. A welded butt joint in a flat section is much easier to hide than a weld in a radius section. If my 1600 was here, I could take a photo and document what I am talking about. No insult intended, just my $.02 I just replaced a dogleg section on my car, so I have some very recent experience with this. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 I think what you guys need to do, is set up a US distributor. That way you can ship a huge crate/container full of stuff, and the shipping would go WAY down per-piece. This would make things a lot more affordable for us Yanks, and therefore we'd be much more likely to buy. Think about it...... Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Yes, we are looking into extending our range to include 610/180b what rust repair sections would you like to see ? Doglegs, the bottoms of the front fenders, wheel arches/rear quarter lower sections.. Quote Link to comment
wead Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 One observation on that replacement dogleg..You have to weld it directly on that inside radius, (along the upper edge) so it is going to be somewhat difficult to file the welds down and get that radius looking like it was a factory job. It can be done, but it's a LOT of filing to make it look correct. I'd personally try to find a donor and replace the entire section due to the finish work after it was welded in. I would recommend completing the inside (or upper) radius and extend the material to join into the flat section of the sill. It would be MUCH easier and faster to cut and fit. A welded butt joint in a flat section is much easier to hide than a weld in a radius section. If my 1600 was here, I could take a photo and document what I am talking about. No insult intended, just my $.02 I just replaced a dogleg section on my car, so I have some very recent experience with this. Hi, no insult taken all input is welcome, we made it that way to try to keep the cost down .I have spent a very long time in the restoration industry and try to make parts that will keep both sides happy, over the years we have found there to be a difference between cars made at the start of a tooling run and at the end of a run , if we were to include the return there will be cars that it will fit perfectly and ones not so perfectly.. however if it's want people want we are more than happy to make it that way. Like I said there is insult taken and we welcome any input people have. Quote Link to comment
wead Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 This has been an interesting thread........... http://community.rat...10-sheet-metal/ front upper fender rail outer box sections (see braveops pic). These are apparently different for the Sedan vs Wagon (Wagon might be "double walled"??). I can't imagine that the Aussies have problems with these, cuz they are a much drier region, but we sure do in the midwest, the upper northwest & much of Canada! rocker/sill panels with the correct front section (see braveops pic), AND the correct rear section, as it is indented to tuck behind the rear 1/4 outer skin, in front of the rear wheels. INNER panels, for the lower rear 1/4 patches behind the rear wheels, that are already out on the market. This panel is the one that drops vertically, off the outer ends of the trunk pan. correct floor pans, with the proper "stampings" we are doing the upper fender rail currently and the inner lower quater I will be looking at in the next day or so, as for the rockers to make the full part would be a rather exspensive part but maybe we could look at just making the at the front . Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 wead, Is there any thing I could do stateside to help you make 521 body panels? Pictures, measurements, take a cab apart, and ship you the old pieces? This is what I would think would be good sellers for 521 trucks. floors. front panels, both the lower apron, and the piece above that the lower apron bolts to. front fenders, whole, or the lower rear corner, and the front part. rear bed corners. Note there are slight differences in the contours of the front fenders between the 1969 521 L-16 trucks, and the 1970 and later 521 trucks, to accommodate the change from the round reflector to the rectangular marker light I have five 521 cabs. I could use a spotweld saw to disassemble the cab, but unfortunately, all my cabs have some to major front end damage, or rust issues. I do have a 521 front core support, bought new, not yet mounted on a vehicle. Quote Link to comment
wead Posted November 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 wead, Is there any thing I could do stateside to help you make 521 body panels? Pictures, measurements, take a cab apart, and ship you the old pieces? This is what I would think would be good sellers for 521 trucks. floors. front panels, both the lower apron, and the piece above that the lower apron bolts to. front fenders, whole, or the lower rear corner, and the front part. rear bed corners. Note there are slight differences in the contours of the front fenders between the 1969 521 L-16 trucks, and the 1970 and later 521 trucks, to accommodate the change from the round reflector to the rectangular marker light I have five 521 cabs. I could use a spotweld saw to disassemble the cab, but unfortunately, all my cabs have some to major front end damage, or rust issues. I do have a 521 front core support, bought new, not yet mounted on a vehicle. If you could send me some pics of all those areas that your after and we'll see if they are ok for templates. Quote Link to comment
karnutz Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 How much for front fender lower rear patches shipped to 98281 or shipped to canada which ever is cheaper? Quote Link to comment
wead Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 How much for front fender lower rear patches shipped to 98281 or shipped to canada which ever is cheaper? 1 lower front fender is $48.00 shipping to 98281 is $46.27.shipping for two is $58.56 Quote Link to comment
wead Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Looked at all your stuff on ebay.. got anything for 610/180b's in the works? We have just picked up a 610/180b Over the next couple of weeks we will be taking templates and starting the process of hand shaping as many panels as possible Quote Link to comment
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