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My Rusty L320 Build


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#161 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 10:17 AM

Thanks for posting those Wayno. The booster fits in there better than i expected.I'm sure it wasn't easy to make the pedestal, but it looks good. 

Why not try losing the booster pedestal altogether and mount it right to the firewall, then make an extension for the clutch master instead?



#162 wayno

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 04:51 PM

The first 2 photos in my last post with photos are of the pedestal I made for my 521 work truck(right pedestal in photo below), it looked like the one on the left till I squeezed it far enough to be able to use the stock mount bolts and then I made the mount flange, the pedestal on the left is the type I used on my 520(second set of photos in my last post with photos), I had to knock the stock brake master mount studs out and drill new holes for that pedestal(not as easily reversed), I am very happy with the 521 pedestal.

DSCN7027.jpg

That is a 1973/74 Datsun 620 brake booster with the 1979 Datsun 620 brake master on the right pedestal.


 

 


#163 delariva

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 08:43 AM

Yes. I used a 110 volt MIG welder fro years before I got my 220 welder.

 

The basic rule of thumb is that the bead should be the same thickness of the material, so if you're welding two 1/4" pieces together, you should have a 1/4" wide bead that runs deep into the metal.

 

Thank you again for the welding tips. I'll get some 1/4" scrap and do some practicing. 



#164 delariva

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 09:09 AM

The clutch master push rod was bent, so I went to the pull and pay to see what I could find. I pulled the clutch master out of a 79 280zx. Here is a pic of everything before getting started.

 

master_01.jpg

 

I ordered a brake master kit for a 620. When I pulled the brake master apart I realized the kit I ordered isn't going to work. I am not positive, because I can't find much info on it, but I think the MC I have is from 510. Most rebuild info I have found show pistons that aren't slotted like these, and that are held in with one retaining screw. I can't find a kit for this MC with pistons held in place by the 2 long retaining screws. I cleaned the old parts and put it back together. If this master is worn out, I will just get a new aftermarket one. 

 

master_02.jpg

 

master_03.jpg

 

The clutch rebuild kit is in the old clutch master. I am just waiting on a 8mm x 1.25 die to get here in the mail, so I can shorten up the 280zx push rod. 



#165 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 09:48 AM

Be very careful when mixing and matching master cyl pushrods. It sounds like you're using the pushrod that came with the master, but if you mix and match, be sure the psuhrod and c-clip and retaining washer don't hang up the piston from returning all the way. I've done this many times and learned the hard way.

 

Cleaned up nicely!



#166 delariva

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 09:16 AM

Be very careful when mixing and matching master cyl pushrods. It sounds like you're using the pushrod that came with the master, but if you mix and match, be sure the psuhrod and c-clip and retaining washer don't hang up the piston from returning all the way. I've done this many times and learned the hard way.

 

Cleaned up nicely!

I am using the original push rod in the brake master. The clutch push rod is bent.  I took a push rod from a 280zx which is the same type of push rod, but it was longer. The 280zx has the threaded clevis so I cut it down. It doesn't seem like it is keeping it from returning all the way on the bench. If it doesn't return all the way when I get it installed to the clutch pedal, I'll just replace the clutch master.



#167 delariva

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 09:21 AM

I filled those holes on the dash yesterday. I am going to spray another guide coat and block it out. It might be close enough to level out with primer, if not I'll work it with the slapping file a little more. 

 

dash_weld.jpg



#168 delariva

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 10:05 AM

Just got back from my trip to Arizona. We enjoyed some spring training baseball, nice weather and picked up the windshield I bought about a month ago. I also purchased a stock rear view mirror from the same seller and picked that up while I was there. Here are a few pics since my last update.

 

I removed the tray under the dash, and the heater vent. The only thing left in the interior is the accelerator pedal. Its soaking in PB blaster some more so I can get it loose. The particle board on the tray is in bad shape.

 

tray01.jpg

 

tray02.jpg

 

I spent a lot of time on the roof. It had multiple creased dents like this one. I got them worked out and thought it looked pretty close to straight, until I sprayed a guide coat. I still have a lot of work to do.

roofwork01.jpg 

 

roofwork02.jpg

 

I had a really cheap hammer and dolly set from an auto parts store. I decided with all of the hammer and dolly work ahead of me, I would get some nicer tools. I ordered a new Martin hammer. After feeling the difference I didn't want to use my old body hammers any more. I have been ordering vintage Fairmount tools to save a little money. After cleaning up the faces, and installing new Martin handles on the hammer heads they are pretty nice. I am not getting them perfect like some guys that restore old tools, just trying to make them usable again. The dollies weigh almost twice as much as the cheap ones I had, and the hammers feel great. It really makes bumping metal a lot easier. 

 

bh01.jpg

 

bh02.jpg

 

bh03.jpg

 

bh04.jpg



#169 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 10:16 AM

Nice hammers are a luxury. One that once you have them, nothing else will do. I spent almost $200 on a waffle head hammer a year ago, and I now can't imagine doing a job without it.

 

Tools make the job. Almost everything I earn goes back into tools.