My Rusty L320 Build

[delariva]

Here are some progress pics from Friday evening. I didn't get it bolted back on the vehicle, but that should be easy to get to after work this week.  I had to run to the parts store for a different inner wheel bearing. When I ordered the donor parts on rock auto, I got the wrong ones. Not sure what I was thinking, but I bought them for the 520 instead of the new 720 hubs. Other than that everything else was smooth sailing. 

 

Edited July 22, 2019 by delariva

[Crashtd420]

If it makes you feel any better those bearing probably won't fit the 520 hubs either.....

For some reason they are listed on every web sight wrong... not sure if the parts sellers ever figured that out.....

 

I'll eventually convert to the 620 inner bearing on my 521 with a  Mike klotz spacer since the correct ones are getting harder to find.....

 

Keep up the good work....

I love seeing these trucks getting back on the road even if it makes me sad I had to leave mine behind in California...

Could only take one home and the 521 was the runner..... 

[emceefarlane]

do you have a part number for these boots?

[Charlie69]

The 720 hubs and bearings work with the Mike Klotz front disc brake kit.

 

 

 

Beebani's front brake kit

 

Edited July 29, 2019 by Charlie69

[320 Newb]

1 hour ago, emceefarlane said:

do you have a part number for these boots?

 

I don't know about the boots but 521 inner and outer tie rod end assemblies fit 320s. The center linkage is the kicker. I had to get a center link milled by a machine shop at the right length to accept 521 tie rod ends. 

[ol' 320]

Wow. I just discovered this thread. Nick you have done some awesome rust repairs on this.

 

What are you working on now? Did you ever identify that what that trans is... L series 4 speed or?

 

More pics, please!

[delariva]

I am almost positive the transmission is an L series 4 speed. I need to get in the garage and figure out what to work on next. I just wrapped up archery season last weekend, so the month of Sept was spent in the mountains. One of the higher priorities on my project list is to take my compressor in to see why it won't build air. I was in the middle of spraying some more epoxy before the cold weather hits and it went out on me. I tried checking the pistons and didn't see any scoring, and the gaskets look good. Hopefully it isn't going to be too pricey, we have our first baby on the way this spring, so all work on the Datsun needs to be done on the cheap end this winter. I'll go through my pics and figure out what I finished up since my last post and do a quick update.

Edited October 7, 2019 by delariva

[delariva]

On 7/28/2019 at 8:25 PM, emceefarlane said:

do you have a part number for these boots?

The tie rod dust boots are a universal part from Energy Suspension. They aren't perfect, but they work. The part is #9.13101

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.13101

 

[delariva]

Finished the disc brake kit installation a little over a month ago (other than the brake lines, I have to re-run all of the hard lines)

 

I also made a trip to the pull yard. I got a notification that they had a 521. I grabbed the grille / headlight trim, and the washer fluid bag (can't find a pic of the bag) the bag leaks so I may not be able to use it. I snagged the trim because I didn't want it to get scrapped. I'll sell it to someone that needs it and use that money toward a 320 grille with the round signals, if I ever find one. I wish I brought more tools, the front bumper was in pretty good shape, but I needed another box wrench to take it without bending the bracket. I left it rather than trashing the bracket to remove the bumper. Hopefully someone else grabbed it before it got crushed.

The last work I did before hunting season was stripping paint on the passenger side door jambs and rocker, and removing the passenger door. The rust damage is about the same on that side, maybe slightly better. With the compressor out of commission for a while I think I will  try to fab a better rocker for the driver side than the first attempt. I want to get that finished before I cut anything out of the passenger side.

 

 

 

[delariva]

I am working on patching some damage to the cab corner. I decided to practice shaping some sheet metal on a smaller piece before attempting the rocker again. I have a patch piece that is a very close fit right now. It will probably need a little fine tuning once the piece is cut out, but it should work.

I ordered and installed a new reed valve/gasket kit on the compressor, but it still isn't building air as well as it used to. I can't order any other replacement parts for it because it is too old, so hopefully it will build air well enough to run the cutting tools. I am going to give that a try this weekend.

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Did you buy a shrinker/stretcher? The bend in that patch looks very nice.

[delariva]

On 10/27/2019 at 10:28 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Did you buy a shrinker/stretcher? The bend in that patch looks very nice.

Thank you. I bought a shrinker/stretcher and a bead roller. I went to a local sheet metal fab company and brought a piece of the rocker to see if I could get a quote on a replacement rather that patching it. They said they didn't know if they could even do it, but if they could it would be a minimum of $400 - $500 per rocker and most likely could cost more. After that I just decided to buy some more tools and figure it out myself. I am sure I could find someone that could do it. I almost had it right with a hammer and dolly, so I don't really see how a company that fabricates parts for a living thought it would be so difficult to reproduce. I practiced making the 90 degree angle on that piece with the bead roller before shrinking that curve into it. I think, with the right dies, I can get the rockers done. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If the shop you brought the piece to is not an automotive specialist, I can understand why they said no. I wouldn't take on a job like that unless I had the vehicle here and I was able to install the repair section. Bringing them a piece and asking them to recreate it leaves a lot of variables unanswered. A lot of tweaking is involved while installing even certified repair panels.

 

Having the right tools makes the job so much easier. Now that you have some of those tools and are willing to learn, I can see this truck turning out very nicely.

[ol' 320]

With the metal-forming skills you have learned and continue to develop, now is the time to sawmill the cab and stretch this front to back 3 inches in the door.

 

I am sure you could pull this off, and when you are done the truck would be so much nicer!

 

 

[wayno]

I believe the guys in Eugene OR did what was just mentioned by ol'320, they stretched the L320 cab just enough to except NL320 doors which actually does give L320 owners more leg room, sadly the NL320 owners did not benefit from the longer doors as if you look at the NL320 cab and look at the L320 cab you will see the L320 has the rear window put farther back from the back of the door, so the bench seat is mounted in the exact same place on both the L320 and NL320.

[delariva]

I didn't even know the doors were different sizes. Thanks for the info Wayno, that would be a lot of work to not get any leg room out of it. I can't imagine trying to get the cab extended and not screwing it up somehow. 

I ended up getting a new compressor over the weekend. My brother needed one too, but didn't have the space for it. He was nice enough to split the cost with me and let me keep it at my place. I have the patch cut out and the fitment of the new piece is about ready to tack in. I am just making sure it REALLY fits well this time before welding. I learned my lesson last time I got a little too eager. It has been really cold and snowing here the last few days so I have been working in short shifts in the cold garage. I think a propane heater is working it's way to the top of my shopping list.

[bilzbobaggins]

Are 320 rockers the same shape as the 521 ones?

[wayno]

I don't believe you understood Delariva, if you stretched the door opening to put NL320 doors on a L320 cab you would end up with more room/legroom.

The only 320 I own that has more room/legroom is my U320, I would imagine the V320 also has more room/legroom also.

 

[delariva]

13 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Are 320 rockers the same shape as the 521 ones?

They look like they have a different profile. I have seen rocker panels offered by reduxgarage for the 521, they look really nice. I reached out to them on their website to see if they could make some for the 320. They replied and said they didn't have a 320 to reference. I asked if sending a complete rocker would be enough to reference, but didn't hear back. 

[delariva]

13 hours ago, wayno said:

I don't believe you understood Delariva, if you stretched the door opening to put NL320 doors on a L320 cab you would end up with more room/legroom.

The only 320 I own that has more room/legroom is my U320, I would imagine the V320 also has more room/legroom also.

 

I definitely misunderstood. I went back and read it again. Who knows, maybe by the time i finish cleaning up the stepside bed that came with the truck, I'll feel more confident. Right now I don't think I have the skill to do it right. 

[wayno]

It's a lot of work stretching a cab, but only stretching 3 or 4 inches is a lot easier than what I did, here is a thread about a small stretch like if one was to fit NL320 doors to a L320 cab, but you need the NL320 doors first, I do know where a set is.

https://ratsun.net/topic/48350-datsun-1965-l320/

 

Here is what the guy started with.

 

And here is what he ended up with.

 

Unfortunately Photolame screwed up the photos so here they are in your thread.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is what I did to my L320 truck.

 

Edited October 30, 2019 by wayno

[difrangia]

On 10/28/2019 at 12:13 PM, delariva said:

Thank you. I bought a shrinker/stretcher and a bead roller. I went to a local sheet metal fab company and brought a piece of the rocker to see if I could get a quote on a replacement rather that patching it. They said they didn't know if they could even do it, but if they could it would be a minimum of $400 - $500 per rocker and most likely could cost more. After that I just decided to buy some more tools and figure it out myself. I am sure I could find someone that could do it. I almost had it right with a hammer and dolly, so I don't really see how a company that fabricates parts for a living thought it would be so difficult to reproduce. I practiced making the 90 degree angle on that piece with the bead roller before shrinking that curve into it. I think, with the right dies, I can get the rockers done. 

 

 You look to have a pretty good start on metal forming. What bead roller and shrinker/stretchers did you acquire ?? Eastwood ? You need a 3-4' leaf or pan brake to go with the machines that you have. I haven't used one but the combination brake/shear/slip roller machines might be something for you to take a look at. Just be sure to get one long enough to cover the longest project that you would want to do, such as the rocker panels.

 

Don't know the nature of work that the fab shop that you contacted generally does, but they may look at your rocker job as just a hinderance to their normal business and quoted you a high price with an opening to charge even more to cover the interruption to their normal business to run you off. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The 3-in-1 machines are all low quality. I have one, and I use it on a regular basis, but it constantly requires blade adjustments, the roller adjusters suck, and the brake plates are all different lengths (so if they are all installed to make one long bend, you get a bunch of steps along the bend). I have made some useful modifications to make the machine better, but I have now outgrown it and am looking to source three standalone machines.

 

You said what I was trying to say, about the metal shops. If it's not in the scope of their regular business, most shops will quote a high price just to have you go away without having to tell you no. I don't do this, but a lot of shops do.

[difrangia]

Right, Matt. I'd guess that they are mostly made in India, China, etc., so expect low quality alloys and semi-crude castings and below-standard machining and fittment.  Stand-alone units would be great if one has room & $$ to make it happen. I always fantasized Having a full panel beater shop, English wheel and all. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I should have clarified that I think a 3-in-1 machine is a great tool for the money. I don't remember exactly what I paid for mine, but I got it on sale from Enco (now MSC) and it was CHEAP!