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My Rusty L320 Build


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#41 delariva

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 08:46 AM

Can Of Worms!

 

Looks good.

 

Haha that's for sure. Right now, in the early stages, it is fix one thing and find three more areas that need attention in the process.



#42 delariva

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 08:55 AM

I've been working on the driver side quarter panel. After grinding it down, I found that it needed quite a bit of work. The rear patch is ready to go, but I forgot to take a picture last night when I was done forming it. The front patch still needs more tweaking. I'll have the mig next weekend. After a lot of practice welds on scrap sheet metal I'll get the patches tacked in. It's scary when I know I will have a hard time finding another quarter panel if I screw this up.

 

panel_off.jpg

 

driver_quarter.jpg

 

inner_damage.jpg

 

rear_quarter.jpg

 

rear_quarter_patch.jpg front_quarter.jpg



#43 delariva

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 09:18 AM

here is an article on panel fitting that I am finding pretty useful.

http://www.hotrod.co...ent-like-a-pro/



#44 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 07:29 AM

There are many ways to skin a cat, but I find these panel clamps very useful when aligning patch panels. http://www.eastwood....s-set-of-4.html



#45 delariva

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 09:16 AM

There are many ways to skin a cat, but I find these panel clamps very useful when aligning patch panels. http://www.eastwood....s-set-of-4.html

Thanks stoffregen. I am pretty sure I have a set of those at my dads house, I don't think they are the same eastwood ones, but they look similar. If I don't have them I'll order them.  I'll give any fabrication tips I get from you a try before I go to the other ways to skin a cat haha. I have seen a lot of really good work you've shared on other threads.



#46 delariva

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 09:18 AM

Here is the picture I wanted to post yesterday of the repair patch that is ready to weld. 

qrtr_patch.jpg



#47 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 07:10 AM

Here is the picture I wanted to post yesterday of the repair patch that is ready to weld. 

qrtr_patch.jpg

 

That should do the trick.

 

Thanks stoffregen. I am pretty sure I have a set of those at my dads house, I don't think they are the same eastwood ones, but they look similar. If I don't have them I'll order them.  I'll give any fabrication tips I get from you a try before I go to the other ways to skin a cat haha. I have seen a lot of really good work you've shared on other threads.

Thanks. I'm here to help.



#48 delariva

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 11:38 AM

Any thoughts on what transmission I have? I have been looking around online for info, and the closest match I have found to the transmission I have is a picture of a F4W63 transmission. The bell housing looks like the F4W63 to me, but the tail looks longer than the pictures I have been referencing. It could just look longer since it is mounted in a 320. I was also wondering about the wires. I am guessing one is a neutral switch and the other is the reverse light switch. I guess I don't need to worry about any of this right now, but when I pulled the cover off, my curiosity got the best of me. 

 

trans1.jpg

 

trans2.jpg



#49 wayno

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 03:33 PM

That transmission doesn't look proper to me, the shift linkage looks to far back, in the photo below you can see the Datsun 320 column shift transmission cover on the left, and the floor shift transmission cover on the right, see how the shift lever hole is a 3 or 4 inches in front of the transmission cover mount holes in the back, yours looks like the shift lever will be way farther back.

DSCN5584.JPG

 

DSCN5585.JPG


 

 


#50 difrangia

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Posted 07 May 2016 - 11:58 AM

That trany is on the back of an L-Series motore, isn't it? Don't know the number designation, but looks like a bottom-pan trany. From my studies, any floor-shift trany put into a 320 will need the floor cut like yours is because the shifter sprouts up 4-5 inches further back than the original floorshift trany for the 320 and very early 520 pickups and the floorshift 410 sedans. Main reason that I stopped researching putting a 5-Speed in mine when I rebuilt the engine. Didn't want to cut on the floor.


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#51 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 08 May 2016 - 08:30 PM

Main reason that I stopped researching putting a 5-Speed in mine when I rebuilt the engine. Didn't want to cut on the floor.

...or have to use bucket seats. I don't think buckets look appropriate in an old truck like a 320. Unless you find something cool like seats out of a Bugeye Sprite. With the shifter that far back, there's no way the factory bench would fit, without modifying it.

 

Also, that large cut in the floor seriously compromises floor strength. That horsecollar type crossmember is what keeps the seats from falling through the floor. Without it, the floor is going to need some strength added back in.



#52 difrangia

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Posted 09 May 2016 - 03:54 AM

Great engineering-minded observations. I think that I had it figured out that I might be able to go just to the reinforcing beam with the floor cut and re-engineer the shift rod shape to head back forward to be able to keep the original seat.


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#53 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 09 May 2016 - 08:13 AM

That sounds about right. My 320 with an A12 and 5 spd trans had the shifter coming up pretty far back, but within the outline of the stock trans cover. I modified both the cover and stick and it cleared the seat just fine.



#54 delariva

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Posted 09 May 2016 - 08:44 AM

Yeah, the transmission is bolted to an L16. The floor and original cover were already cut when I got the truck. I was working on how to repair the floor, and the transmission cover on Friday before heading out for the weekend. 

 

 

Thanks for posting those pictures of the covers wayno. That is going to give me a better idea of what I am trying to do. Right now I have a thicker piece of sheet metal already formed to fit that collar, and  move the original cut further forward. Then I am using a thinner 22 gauge to get the shape I want for the missing part of the trans cover. I will try to get a better pic tonight.

 

I have two bucket seats that look like they are from a 70's Bronco that came with the truck. I was really hoping to add a bench seat, but I am not sure if I can find one that will fit.  I may just take a frame from an old toyota, or some other small truck at the pull yard and modify the frame to fit the shifter. Then I would have a seat somewhere between a bench and bucket. I am not sure yet though. I will deal with that when I get there. 



#55 Lockleaf

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Posted 09 May 2016 - 11:30 AM

720 single cab 4x4 have basically the kind of seat you are talking about.

This is mine, pardon the fact that its trashed you get the idea at least. :)

20160509_132258_zpsgh9lal7z.jpg

20160509_132312_zpswrrk7wvz.jpg

The transfer case shift lever comes up through the center of the seat.

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#56 difrangia

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Posted 09 May 2016 - 01:57 PM

A side view of the two transmission covers that might be of help.

 

Trany%20Pan%201_zpsawzadrgg.jpg


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#57 delariva

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:39 AM

Thanks for sharing the seat, and the pics of the cover. 

 

I guess I'll post things that aren't going so well too. My welds are ugly. I was feeling good on my practice welds, but the first attempts on the car didn't go well. I am going to try backing the 18g sheet metal with copper to see if that helps to keep me from blowing through on some of the butt joints. The main problem I am having is that I can't see with the welding helmet I have. I start most of my tack welds in the wrong spot, then have to correct where I am after I start the arc. I have an auto darkening helmet coming from Eastwood on Monday. I am hoping that helps a lot. I'll just have to keep practicing.

 

Here is a pic of the hole for the shifter that was already cut before.

shift_hole.jpg

 

I cleaned it up and bend some 18 gauge sheet metal to cover up where the hole didn't need to be cut.

prep.jpg

 

Here are my ugly welds. The really bad one on the left, I forgot to open the valve on the shielding gas. 

bad_welds.jpg

 

I ground those down, and am bending some 1/8 inch to try and reinforce where the collar (not sure what to call it) was cut. I need to see if the shifter has enough clearance to just go straight across. If not I'll have to do some more planning. I'll post more progress once the practice welds start looking better.

bad_welds2.jpg



#58 Lockleaf

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:56 AM

What size welding wire are you using? For sheet you want to be using .025 wire if you aren't.

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#59 delariva

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 10:01 AM

Thanks for the tip. I am using .023 right now, so unfortunately don't have the excuse of the wire being too thick haha. 



#60 wayno

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 02:05 PM

You need to keep in mind that you don't need to hold a arc for more than a second, you aim it by resting the trigger shield on the metal making sure the wire is aimed correctly, close your eyes and pull the trigger for a second or less, open your eyes, move a couple inches ahead at least where the metal isn't to hot to touch with your finger, aim and pull the trigger for a second and move on, if you weld to close together where it gets to hot it will warp, but the floor boards are normally a little thicker metal than a cab top like in the photo below.

DSCN0105.JPG

Every tack weld was done 4 inches apart in the photo above, and this one I used gas with 023 wire, normally I use flux-core(030) wire as I work outside.

If the metal is thin or even slightly rusty, you cannot hold an arc, it will just blow thru.

I did most my 521 kingcab without a welding helmet, I just closed my eyes.