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My Rusty L320 Build


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#21 delariva

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 08:44 AM

Over the weekend I spent most of my time installing a shop light, light switch, and outlet next to a workbench I made out of my brothers old kitchen cabinets. Once that was done, I got back to work on the harness. I got a few packages in the mail. One was the kit from vintage connections, the other was a few single wire light bulb pigtails from summit racing to replace the burned out wires for the gauges. The pigtails weren't the right size, and I couldn't find anything at the local part stores. I decided it would be easier to just dremel them down than to keep looking for a part that fit. I have most of the under dash harness wired now. I need to connect the switches to the main loom, then I will move to the harness in the engine bay. 

 

bench.jpg

 

connections.jpg

 

pigtails.jpg

 

dremel.jpg

 

fit.jpg

 

harness.jpg



#22 difrangia

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 06:49 PM

Quite the craftsman. Keep sluggin'.



#23 delariva

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 08:42 AM

Thank's Steve. I'm still chipping away at it. Nothing too exciting to post at the moment. I just saw the video of your engine running. It sounds great!



#24 delariva

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Posted 07 April 2016 - 08:19 AM

I've made some progress this week. I haven't posted any of it yet because I have been busy. Earlier this week I caught two kids trying to steal my jeep. They had already broken a window and done a lot of damage around the ignition switch before I ran out to catch them. Anyway, I've been dealing with fixing that mess this week. The silver lining to that story, is that I had to make a trip to the pull yard to get some parts for my jeep. While I was there I found an L20B that still had the matchbox distributor. It cheered me up during a rough day! It cleaned up pretty well.

score.jpg cleanedUp.jpg

 

I have been doing some body work on the 320. I am still wiring the harness, and have most of it done. I would like to spray the engine bay before I install the harness though, so getting the cab ready for paint is next on my list. I'll pull the engine and prep the bay once the rest of the body is straight. 

 

I started on the driver door. It had the most noticeable damage. I could tell it had too much body filler, because I could see a few hairline cracks in it.  I used paint stripper to get a better look at where there was filler that needed to be removed. The stripper softened up the filler OK, but not as well as I had hoped. It was only enough to take of a small layer. Underneath was still hardened filler. I used a combination of my angle grinder and a drill with a wire wheel to remove the rest. It was on there pretty thick. After that I sanded the bare metal a bit, and started pulling dents. It is slow going because I have very little experience with bodywork, but it is fun, and gives me a lot to do without having to spend more money on the project for now. 

 

stripper.jpg

 

thickFiller.jpg

 

dtm.jpg

 

studs.jpg



#25 delariva

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 08:52 AM

I updated my wiring diagram now that I found a matchbox distributor. I also changed a few of the wire colors to colors that I could order. I am pretty sure the only non factory colors are the blue/yellow to the wiper motor, the brown for ignition/alternator to the fuse block, and the orange ignition start. I will leave the first one as is just in case anyone wanted to reference it with the HEI and original wire colors.

 

320_matchboxWiring.jpg



#26 delariva

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 09:10 AM

I needed a break from pounding out dents, so I pulled the heater box and started restoring that. I am going to send the heater core out for a quote. I am hoping it isn't going to cost too much so I can have it rebuilt. I was able to find the various neoprene washers and rusted bolt replacements at the hardware store. I am using a scuff pad to remove the black spray paint (I am really starting to hate black spray paint). I ordered some Miracle Paint today, and am going to coat the inside of the box in that to help prevent any more rusting inside. I think I am going to leave the outside the original paint. I think it adds a lot of character to the interior. I'll have to see how bad the rust is once I get more of the spray paint scuffed down. So far it is in pretty decent shape. 

 

heaterBox.jpg

 

heater01.jpg

 

heater02.jpg



#27 delariva

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 09:17 AM

I got a few packages in the mail yesterday. Since the bed is a cut down chevy stepside, I needed to figure out what to use for tail lights. I decided to go with 521 tail lights from ebay. I also got my body filler supplies. It will be back to the hammer and dolly soon, so I can start playing with the new supplies. After working with paint stripper fumes and paint dust, the most exciting item in the box was a respirator. I am glad I have that now. The little 3M masks from the hardware store just don't compare to a respirator. I wish I would have got one a long time ago.

 

521Tail.jpg

 

bodyStuff.jpg resp.jpg



#28 hobospyder

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 09:23 AM

And now I want a respirator. Purposefully bought? Details?

Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#29 delariva

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 10:06 AM

And now I want a respirator. Purposefully bought? Details?

I bought it because I was getting pretty bad allergies after I would sand with the smaller white respirators. I could still see paint dust in tissues when I would blow my nose after working with the paint dust even after wearing the cheap mask. I also didn't want to work with the filler or paint gun in the future without a better respirator. I got this particular respirator from summit racing. Summit was the cheapest place to get the Evercoat boddy filler, so I ordered the respirator from them too. It wasn't very expensive, only around $20. Here is a link. I got the medium, it fits my face well. It also comes in a large.

 

http://www.summitrac...ts/lmg-0871501b



#30 hobospyder

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 11:11 AM

That's not that bad, thought they would be worse. Will come in handy as I work on my cars thanks

Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#31 wayno

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:50 PM

Go back and get the coil and wires going to the matchbox, you need them.

At least your working on yours, I have so many Datsuns I spend most my time keeping them running along with that POS pressure washer I have, it works real good once I get it running the first time every morning, then it starts easy after that.


 

 


#32 Charlie69

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 06:28 PM

Nice drawing of the wiring schematic.  What program did you use?

 

The Datsuns or the pressure washer Wayno?



#33 wayno

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 08:44 PM

I was talking about the pressure washer Charlie, it is kind of a hassle to get started the first time every morning, most the time I hit the starter and pull on the pull start at the same time, the starter don't turn it over fast enough by itself, if it will not start that way, then I have to jump it with the truck battery, it has a giant battery now that I bought for the Mini, but that doesn't seem like enough for this engine, my other pressure washer starts with half a turn, this one turns over several times without even hitting unless I help it with the pull start.

The problem is that the pull start fell apart this morning, that is why I am slightly aggravated with it, but I fixed it when I got home with my last pull start mechanism, thus the reference to it being a POS.

Nice drawing of the wiring schematic.  What program did you use?

 

The Datsuns or the pressure washer Wayno?


 

 


#34 delariva

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 09:31 AM

Go back and get the coil and wires going to the matchbox, you need them.

At least your working on yours, I have so many Datsuns I spend most my time keeping them running along with that POS pressure washer I have, it works real good once I get it running the first time every morning, then it starts easy after that.

Thanks Wayno,

I have the MSD blaster coil, but I might go back and get the coil from the JY. It is probably dirt cheap, and wouldn't hurt to have around.



#35 delariva

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 09:33 AM

Nice drawing of the wiring schematic.  What program did you use?

 

The Datsuns or the pressure washer Wayno?

Thank you. I use Adobe Illustrator. 



#36 delariva

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 03:41 PM

I got a few more wires in the mail earlier this week, and was working on the harness. I noticed a mistake in my diagram. I updated the ignition switch wiring. The brown (black/white originally) will go from the switched/Acc on the ignition switch to the fuse block wire labeled ACC. I won't splice from the alternator into this wire. There is a wire in the block dedicated to the alternator IGN power circuit. I'll go from that to the alternator. I originally had a blue and black wire connected to the switch. I looked at the diagram again and the blue went to the radio, black from the ignition switch to fuse. I'm going to use the blue from the fuse to ignition switch. Hopefully that works, if not ill splice from the alternator to the switch like the original wiring diagram.

 

If you refresh your browser you should see the new updates above. I didn't bother with the first diagram with the HEI because I'm not using that one any more.



#37 Charlie69

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 08:49 PM

The people at Vintage connections are great to deal with.  Looking Great, keep up the good work.



#38 delariva

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 09:45 AM

Here are a few progress pics.

The driver side door is straight. I got the dents worked out. It still needed body filler over a lot of it, but it isn't thick like it was before. I used paint stripper to remove whatever rubber spray is on the inside of the doors. When I was shrinking the metal, it would start to burn when I was using the torch. I coated the inside with Bill Hirsch miracle paint, and will probably spray a layer of POR 15 rubberized undercoating to help with sound deadening. 

 

I finished scuffing the spray paint off of the heater box and painted the inside with miracle paint to keep it from rusting any more.

 

There was some rust that needed cut out of the driver side door jamb. I cut out a rust hole, and found a mess. Someone had filled it with foam spray. I was able to get it all out, and will weld a patch when I borrow my dads mig welder.

 

I pulled the blue headliner that was added, and found that the original headliner was still in there underneath. It comes off easy in the spots that aren't dried out. Where it is dried up it is tough to scrape off. It might take a while to clean it up.

 

door.jpg cleanedHB.jpg

 

insideDoor.jpg

 

miraclePaint.jpg

 

jambRust.jpg

 

headliner.jpg foam.jpg



#39 difrangia

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 03:37 AM

Good preservation your doing.



#40 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 24 April 2016 - 07:59 AM

Can Of Worms!

 

Looks good.