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510 EZ wiring harness install - Ignition


revolt510

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Hey all,

 

Hoping someone can save me some time and headache and hope my description isn't too confusing - its making me dizzy! If you've installed an EZ wiring harness into your 510, I have a question about how the ignition switch is wired up and then what's the connections to the starter, coil and ballast resistor? EZ wire doesn't provide a schematic for their fuse block and all the diagrams are US motors.

 

I should note I pulled this harness from another project and could be missing a wire that's not connected to the fuse panel.

 

I have an L16 with MSD coil, electronic dizzy from datsun parts LLC and - they told me to keep the ballast resistor.

I have an internally regulated alternator, so external voltage regulator is gone.

 

Datsun stock wiring you have direct from the switch the black/white and black/black connecting to either side of the ballast resistor and the black/blue connection going to coil positive. This doesn't really jive with the EZ harness wiring coming from the panel, so hoping someone can give me some clarity?

 

Into the engine bay I have from the EZ harness:

 

Coil Pos (pink) ---> ? to coil positve (+) but not sure how this goes with the ballast resistor?

 

Tach (purple) --> coil negative

 

IGN START (purple) ---> I'm connecting direct to datsun black/yellow on the switch (see below)

 

the dizzy 'T' connection:

'I' bottom connection goes to coil +

'-' top connection goes to coil -

 

 

On the 510 Ignition switch:

 

From the EZ harness I have IGN SW COIL (pink) and IGN SWITCH IGN (brown) that I'm not sure how to wire.

 

1 - Battery Input, Datsun white/red wire ----> I've connected to EZ IGN SWITCH Power (red)

 

2 - Battery input from fuse (ON), Datsun black/white ----> I'm not sure ?? IGN SW IGN (brown)?

 

3 - Starter Out, Datsun Black/yellow ----> I'm connecting EZ IGN START (purple)

 

4 - ACC/ON, Datsun blue/black ----> I'm connecting EZ IGN SWITCH ACC (orange) - connect brown IGN SW ACC here too?

 

5 - IGN out, Datsun black/blue ----> ??? IGN SW COIL (pink)? this goes thru a fuse and becomes Coil Pos (pink) do I take this to the coil positive terminal, connect one end of resistor and the other end of the resistor go back to where?

 

any help appreciated.

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stock datsun!!!!!!!!

Blk /wht is Key ON goes to the ballast resisitor. then out of ballast to + coil.this is usually blk/grn

Blk/blu is the hot Start wire that is a bypass to the + coil

 

the blk/blu and blk/grn are Y spilced under the tape but can be reversed

 

this is all you need to get a 510 running. Most time I dont know why people pull out the stock harness

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I ran my EZ wires to the factory ignition plug to make it easier to remove and install the switch and they go as follows.

 

EZ Factory

Purple Black with Yellow Stripe

Red White with Red Stripe

Pink Black with White Stripe

Orange Blue with Black Stripe

 

I did not use the EZ brown wire or the Black with Blue stripe from the plug. This is the setup that two other cars down here are using with the EZ Wire harness and they run just fine.

 

Why do we pull the stock harness? Because unless you have a really clean car to start with, they are usually a hacked up mess and by wiring it up yourself, you can hide them better and make it look nicer. My car came with no harness at all and this is easier than trying to find a stock one, cleaning it up and hoping all the sections match.

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Why do we pull the stock harness? Because unless you have a really clean car to start with, they are usually a hacked up mess and by wiring it up yourself, you can hide them better and make it look nicer. My car came with no harness at all and this is easier than trying to find a stock one, cleaning it up and hoping all the sections match.

 

I like to see photos of this.

Thqats good.

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cool, thanks for the help.

 

I pulled the stock datsun harness caused when I got the car the harness had been hacked to sh*t with alarm system, a switch for a radiator fan and other stuff that was just in there and hanging behind the dash. A few of the light connectors the wires had kinks where the insulation cracked etc.

 

Basically its 40 year old wire that's seen 40 years of use - same reason people re-wire the house. I do it myself then if something goes wrong its only my cruddy work to troubleshoot!

 

thanks again.

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  • 10 months later...

I have found myself in the midst of the throes of an EZ installation and am close, but still not quite ready to chop and play...I was actually hoping to diagram this process a bit as well, for future nutballs like myself. Shall we revive this thread?

 

My discoveries:

 

Ignition Setup

#1 - EZ Red (Ign Power) runs to the fuse block. 510 runs to the White wire, which joins (IN FRONT OF) the White Stater Solenoid/White Red Alt Power (White goes between Start Solenoid and Fuse box, White Red splices between Alt Power and Start Solenoid).

 

How the heck does this work? The EZ Red "Ign Power" goes to the fuse block, and the EZ Red "Solenoid" goes to the Starter solenoid. Where does the EZ Red "Alt Power" wire go then? And if it goes to the Alternator, do I run a jumper wire over to the Starter Solenoid to mimick the 510 setup??

 

Basically, what did you guys do with the Ign Power and the Alt Power setup? I can draw diagrams of what I see. Could someone do that for me?

 

#2 - It has been suggested in this post that the EZ Brown "Ign" wire is removed as is the 510 Black Blue. I have a KA, so the Black and Blue can be deleted entirely. But should I leave the Brown wire in the harness and let it run to the fuse block? (It powers/gangs with the Turn Flashers, Choke Power, and Gauge Power in the fuse block, so I'm guessing the Brown wire runs power to those items?)

 

#3 - EZ Red "Alt Exciter" wire... how does this work into the system? I'm guessing it replaces the 510 White/Red 'Light' wire from the Alternator. But the EZ wire runs from the Fuse Block, whereas the 510 W/R wire runs to the Charge Light. Do I ignore the Exciter wire and run the existing set up for the Charge Light?

 

#4 - I don't have a Choke. Should I delete the EZ Choke wire, or keep it around to power something else? (like extra gauges or something?)

 

Thanks! I'll post some diagrams once these things start to work.

 

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Revolt 510 never posted back.

I guess it wasnt that EZ

 

no, it isn't yet. Most of my concern is the way things run in and out of the fuse box. Not as straight forward as the 510 box.

 

I've pretty well figured out most of the other things "on paper". Its a bit screwier for me because I've got a KA. and have gutted a bunch of unused systems already. 

 

and to think, it all started because I wanted a new, better gas gauge (don't get me started on the answers to the old wiring I found AFTER I bought the EZ Kit).

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i found that the speedway kits is much much better and its only 150.00 i used this on several GM cars and im just about done with the total rewire on my datsun 620. im just in the process of wiring in my ka24de and i will have everything completed. i was able to use all the factory switches except the wiper switch because i dont have a wiper switch so once i find one ill wire the wipers in. 

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I think I got it. Everything is working so far.

 

- The EZ Wiring Brown Ignition wire can run off the Pink (coil) or Orange (Acc) Ign Switch Wires to power the fuse bank it hooks to (I went with the Orange). 

 

- The Pink Coil that replaces the Black/White spot on the ign switch needs a splice running to the Blue/Black position of the 510 ignition switch for for during cranking.

 

Still not sure on the Excitor wire, but I hooked it up to the charge light position, and it seems to be working in place of the Charge Light wire of an IR Alternator. (12V on my voltage meter with the battery on, when started the volt meter jumps to 14V, making me think the alternator is 'excited'!)

 

If/when I get time I'll try to make up a diagram. I've got a wagon and I also did some major clean up, so it won't be an easy write up.
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  • 7 months later...

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