datson4life Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 i thought it would only take a few weeks, i though it would only take about 500 bucks, anyway about 7 months later and i dont wanna count how much money, this is where im at.. engine went in today, hopefully will have it running by wednesdays :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :hyper: :hyper: :hairy: heres some before and afters 1 Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 all sounds good, so i need a new fuel pump if i move the location of the filter? and how much do brake and clutch lines go for? the stainless steel braided ones look for the facet pumps, let me know what psi you need and how many gph and I can get you the part number, they are one of the last low pressure diaphram pumps made, dont forget to run an oil pressure safety switch or pull a fuel pump safety relay out of a carburated japanese car. you dont want the pump to run when the engine is off, a switch doesnt help if you are knocked out in a wreck and the pump keeps dumping gas out of a broken line. the oil pressure one is a warning light pressure switch with two contacts, one contact opens with oil pressure, and one closes, that contact goes to your fuel pump relay. if the engine stops, the oil pressure stops and the pump circuit opens. Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 you can get the facet pump in exactly the psi you need, they are designed for low pressure carb use, thee only reason i ran a regulator, was I got my pump on sale and it was a little higher psi then i needed, I already had the regulator installed Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 thanks for all the info, i got everything i need to get it running except a few bolts i lost, i am gonna keep mechanical fuel pump for a little while, i have electronic sitting around too Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 et me know when you are ready for the pump and i will walk you through it Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 thanks, i got it figured out, will install electric later on just to clean up hoses......................question: theres a water hose that goes into intake manifold but water just sits there cause i have an a87 head...can i delete that water hose or is it good for intake manifold to have water into it?? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 datsun for Life I see you running a oil pressure line. I would swap the line so the plastic line come out the 90deg part pointing towards the fire wall. Be honest if this is a taiwan plsitc line it will crack right there do to the heat cycles. if its not a oil burner I would just go back to the stock sender in the block. I have gone back to it myself after 2 lines have broken. They make a transduccer type now that screw in the block but uses a wire to move the gauge instead of oil. This is the way to go now. Autometer and VDO and others make them, pretty common now. If you want to run a oil line get a braided line from like Autometer. Otherwise youll remember what I said in about 4yrs from now. Most plastic lines crack when one changes the starter or oil filter. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 datsun for Life I see you running a oil pressure line. I would swap the line so the plastic line come out the 90deg part pointing towards the fire wall. Be honest if this is a taiwan plsitc line it will crack right there do to the heat cycles. if its not a oil burner I would just go back to the stock sender in the block. I have gone back to it myself after 2 lines have broken. They make a transduccer type now that screw in the block but uses a wire to move the gauge instead of oil. This is the way to go now. Autometer and VDO and others make them, pretty common now. If you want to run a oil line get a braided line from like Autometer. Otherwise youll remember what I said in about 4yrs from now. Most plastic lines crack when one changes the starter or oil filter. Truth. Mine snapped last weekend right before I needed to drive 90 miles... Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 get rid of that plastic crap tubing, it will break and spray oil all over your engine, Ill see what I can do about finding you some braided lines, I have a shit load of fittings, but I dont know how much -4 line I have, and get rid of the KN filter, they let a lot of junk through, get a WIX probably the last decent oil filter left, measure from the center of that brass piece on the engine to the firewall, I'll see what I can do, oh WIX and Nappa gold are the same thing, I dont think they make the Nappa silver anymore, but avoid it if they do Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 datsun for Life I see you running a oil pressure line. I would swap the line so the plastic line come out the 90deg part pointing towards the fire wall. Be honest if this is a taiwan plsitc line it will crack right there do to the heat cycles. if its not a oil burner I would just go back to the stock sender in the block. I have gone back to it myself after 2 lines have broken. They make a transduccer type now that screw in the block but uses a wire to move the gauge instead of oil. This is the way to go now. Autometer and VDO and others make them, pretty common now. If you want to run a oil line get a braided line from like Autometer. Otherwise youll remember what I said in about 4yrs from now. Most plastic lines crack when one changes the starter or oil filter. Truth. Mine snapped last weekend right before I needed to drive 90 miles... I was just going to post as well just for this. Change to 90 degree fitting and use copper or autometer capillary tubing. The best is to swap to electrical sender and gauges. My very first 521, I used plastic tubing. It broke in the cab at temperature while I was out man whoring. None that night... Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 What did you use to spray the bay? Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 thanks fellas, yes im aware if the plastic line getting weak, where can i buy the braided ones?, i cant find any, and for engine bay i ordered the paint they use on the new lamborghini veneno just kidding, its gunmetal duplicolor with primer under it and like 30 coats of high temperature clear coat, i sanded everything down to metal before spraying Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 engine and tranny are in but the back of tranny is like half an inch too much to the drivers side, so to shift into 1st gear it hits the body, and everything is in same way it came out, i did notice my engine mounts are different, will post pics later to show what i mean Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 if someone can find a piece of -4 line long enough, I will put the fitings on for him, I've got plenty of fittings and bulkhead connectors, Im just out of -4 line, it seems im down to a roll of -8 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 something is off, it looks crooked and everything is in place, could it be that my engine mounts arent the same? notice i cannot get to 1st gear s Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 the pass side mount is WRONG!!!!!!!!!! that loosk a later 620 mount. get a 510 or 521 pass side mount. If anything I see 2 holes on this mount. You used the wrong one? but you need to use a 510 or 521 mounts and 521 oil pan wheither a L16/18 or 20 just run the stock wire for the oil gauge. Autometer dont sell oil lines?????????????They DO!!!!!!!! I wouldnt run that plastic line if you want this new motor to last. Just make sure you primed the oil pump first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! get shorter sheet metal screws thos look tacky also while your at it I would replace the end trans seal. Make sure to get the 2 lipped version. Nissan has these. Most are the cheap SKF brand single lip dont get them this is a 200sx 5 speed trans??????????? Cause a 521 has a different out put shaft that uuses a nut on the end. Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 thats the mount ive had for the past 3 years, i was hoping everything would go back together nicely, now im on the hunt for a 521 mount and a better oil pressure line, i didnt prime the oil pump :hmm: yes its a 5 speed transmission but i dont know what its off of, 200sx?? are those good transmissions? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 yea those trans are fine. If this was all the same stuff you had before. Then the engine mount u used you used the other hole. as I see 2 holes. But 510 sheet metal mounts should be EZ to come by as most use the mount your usies to do the KA swaps. Prime oil pump yes!!!!!!! otherwise no oil will get sucked up a little self promotion https://vimeo.com/19077890 I also replaced the plastic bushing that fir on either side of that PIN on the 5 speed with new bronze ones for a Chysler door hinge kit Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 i tried the other hole, the dude helping me was drunk so ill try again later on my own, and i dont understand what pins or bushings you are talking about :confused: Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 thats the mount ive had for the past 3 years, i was hoping everything would go back together nicely, now im on the hunt for a 521 mount and a better oil pressure line, i didnt prime the oil pump :hmm: yes its a 5 speed transmission but i dont know what its off of, 200sx?? are those good transmissions? like I said, find me a piece of braided -4 long enough and I'll put the fittings on it for you, I have plenty Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 see the pin holding the stick shift ? there is usually 2 plastic bushings on each side of shifter handle . I replace them with metal ones. otherwise it causes alot of slop in shifter Quote Link to comment
raggmann Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 If you need 521 engine mounts let me know. I don't know what shipping would be but I'm sure I've got an extra set in my boxes (read-hoarding) of 521 parts. Probably right next to the extra set of doors and such. Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 you might want to run a line straight from the block to the firewall, then put that T on, I remember doing the same things a long time ago with my 310 and the block snapped off at the threads,due to vibration. those brass threads are weak, and not really designed for vibration. I might have a line that will work, but it might be too long, this is a cloth covered braided aircraft line, and the ends are machine crimped, so I cant shorten it. I need the distance roughly from the port on the block to the firewall . Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 http://www.tristatemotorsports.com/Results.cfm?Category=Gauges Quote Link to comment
lostforawhile Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 if i can find it, I have an extra autometer oil pressure gauge and sender, and I think I have a gauge cup for it. I'll probably make you a good deal if you are interested. I dont think I ever used it Quote Link to comment
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