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Looking for input on alignment for an AutoX setup?? 510


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#1 spec-bre

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 06:03 PM

Hello Rats, I'm getting ready to take my 72 510 to get it aligned. (This is not a street car nor will it be). I was hoping to get some input on a base camber/caster setup (a starting point). I would like to see/hear what others are running. I have front coil overs, camber plates, control arm camber bolt. Rear is basically stock other then a flipped mustache bar, and poly inserts. Rear camber mod to come.

#2 O.D.D.

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 07:10 PM

Alriight- This is my sorta thing. I autox my 510 as much as i can, and have been doin' it for 5 years now. Ii race with the NorCal UFO club (UnitedFive-tenOwners). I won the vintage street prepared class i race in 2010, and have finished as high as 6th at a CORVETTE club event with about 50 cars. My car is low budget made from 98% nissan parts

For some perspective on my setup I have a STREET DRIVEN 4 door 510. Torquey L20b, 280zx trns, 3.90 LSD, if you have an L16/18, you have less frnt weight than I do, if you arent running 280zx brakes, struts, and tranny, you will be lighter than me all around. I say this just in case you are sensitive to spring rates vs weight. Care about moment of inertia, and all the technical fine details.

My Front parts are - 280zx struts w/ coilovers -tokico 240z inserts - 225lb springs, adj T/C rods, shitty camber plates, heim jointed adjustable frnt control arms, susp tech 1-1/8 bar, RUBBER T/C bushings (dont go poly you will regret it-ball joint if you have $ or use a nylon conversion kit - i will soon) slotted rotors with stock pads.

My Rear parts are... camb/cast SLOTTED rear x member (your camber bolt isnt nearly enough adj), 280zx alum drums, slightly more aggressive pads, tokico 510 rear struts, apprx 980lb ROADSTER rear springs, susp.Tech rear bar.

My tires have been 195 60 r14 Falken RT615s, 195 45 R14 Toyos (i forget exactly which @ moment), and most recently Kuhmo V700s. I have also used Hoosier Vintage DOT radials on loan from a friend, but they were pretty damn heat cycled and I wouldnt use them as a basis for much. If you are going to run Slix Or Cantilivers i may not be much help. (especially cantilivers - its a whole nother animal on those)

Notice I am 5 paragraphs in and i have said NOTHING about my alignment? :huh: ? In my mind spewing settings at you is worthless unless you are running a similar setup to mine.

First things first, you probly already know this, but with an open diff, soft rear shox/springs, and stock rear geometry... you will suffer major "lift throttle oversteer" Ya pretty much have to stiffen the crap outta the rear of the car and slot the x member to get rid of that. technically my 980lb STOCK 2000 roadster springs are only semi-stiff. The trick part there is a pair of COMP roadster springs.....good luck finding some. Though i hear there is someone other than Sus-tech and Eibach now making any rate you would like on E-bay (dunno anyone with a set of those though) . Another option is coilovers from ermish racing - then your spring hunting days are over. but thats not my sort of thing. I like the hard way. Coilover rates are obviously do not apply to what I am describing.

IF you are suffering all the above rear ailments no amnt of alignment will really make you happy.My car PLOWED tight corners with major understeer until these things were corrected, I and that is with advanced camber/caster on the front, etc... Worse yet, slaloming becomes highly unstable if you attempt to brake in anything other than a straight line, tire pressures can be messed with to minimize some of this, but then you are giving up total potential grip to solve a geometry problem, not a fast solution. I have NEVER been beaten by a swapped SR/KA car at an event because they almost always dont have a front bar, nor do they go for correct geometry and height in the rear. Without addressing these things NO amount of power can make you fast enough in a line to overcome all you lose in the corners.

That said, my first alignment recommendation is to ditch the eccentric bolts and slot your 'member. Oh, and make sure you are happy with your shox and springs first. With a sufficiently stiff rear and enough toe -in you will eliminate all the gremlins associated with attempting to slow your car. and begin to dial in some oversteer if you would like... once you move to the front of the car.

In front - I have a heavier motor and heavier frnt brakes than stock, I run slightly stiffer springs than may be ideal for other cars,
Now, its popular to get these cars really low, and of course thats good for Autox roll center,etc, but If you dont have strut spacers up front, things will be a little weird. I try run as little camber as I can get away with because I want as much contact patch as I can. furthermore I have shitty Camber plates that dont allow for a full range of adjustment.
To overcome this without spending a buncha money, I run more caster to get camber as the car turns. I like the turn in effect it creates but it does tend to make me end up too close too soon sometimes. Currently I am at 1.5deg camber and 2.5 deg caster. I have been much higher than that caster wise. (remember the Toyo 45 sidewalls...that was from trying LOTS of caster...) Toe can be dead on or slightly out, depending on your taste. mine is out a little.

I am able to write a novel to you on this topic because I have been stuck on a train for a while now, but I am about to come to my stop and will have to finish tomorrow. Probably sometime mid morning. (stay tuned)

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#3 68Datsun510

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 09:13 PM

I'm a UFO member as well, last time i autox'd was 06 or so at the last Shasta event. As he said, we need to know your setup first ;)

Great write up ODD!!

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#4 O.D.D.

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 09:41 PM

Thanx 68! Plenty more where that come from....


BRE - Lesse here where was I.....I was re-reading things and realized I ASSUMED the camber bolt in the control arm was for the REAR control arms...that is what you meant right?

Moving on - I didnt get to how my car behaves, ride height, etc. .. Its important to mention again that a big diff between your car and mine for certain is that mine has been a street driven daily driver for the last 6 years as well as doing autox.

I mention that (again) because,part of the shortcomings of my car are its ride height and conservative handling characteristics by autox standards. Were I to lower the car more, and perhaps trade a little caster for camber i would get something quicker for sure. Currently the car is nimble enough, and quite stable. But its heavier than average and its still setup to intentionally understeer when pushed past the limit. it has a lot of front brake bias from the Z conversion so it also understeers in heavy braking. I have made no effort to change that because the car is stable at high speeds and can be unsettled on country roads safely.

Without a brake bias controller, or doing a bunch of trick stuff the the slave cylinders in the drums,... the braking will stay as is. When I lower the car further I may attempt as much as 3deg camber.

On the topic of camber... You may want to get a $20 pyrometer and read the tires during the first event after your setup to see where you are at. U know about taking inside, middle and outside temps etc??? You really want to dial the car in by what the tires tell you, not me, or anyone else online. Regardless of your equipment and geometry, this is a nearly free First Step, that must be dialed in regardless of all other settings and numbers. In other words... Over-inflating all 4 tires and then wondering why yoursetup alignment feels strange is a total D'oh move I have done in the past. (forgot to air down after driving to an event @ high presure)

I usually run 2-4lb less air in the rear tires than I do the fronts for AutoX.

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#5 68Datsun510

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:48 PM

THe joys of low pro tires, not realizing when your are UNDER inflated until the car drives like oatmeal :P

This is all really good info, i recommend sticky!

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#6 O.D.D.

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:05 PM

I have made a habit of starting high and bleeding air as i go - my car reaches a weird point where I like the feel with less air, but its slower than when I dont, so i have been trying to not t mess around with pressures too much. Streets have been 34f-30r to 30f-26r as a full range of what I drove. Toyos were slightly higher like 36f-32r If I remember right.

Yea - the Toyos were alright, but not great. Skinny sidewalls dont really offer a range of pressure, they either stick or they suck. Not a lot of room for takin' air out. They were cheater tires for me. At the time I had pulled my L20b to be rebuillt. I havd a stock L16 Mule that was in the car to finish the season (I held off a friends faster 510 in a slow eroding points battle )

They accompished 2 things. First the shorter overall wheel/tire height gave me a little more acceleration out of corners - almost like going from a 3.90 to a 4.11. FWY driving was a little nervy though. Engine ran noticeably higher RPM and lower Fuel econ. Second, I was able to try a silly amount of caster (like about 4+ deg) in an attempt to make the car more willing to corner under its limited power without pushing as much. Sorta worked, sorta didnt.

BRE - if you are reading any of this... Am I going waay overboard here? Does most of what I am talking about relate?

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#7 Uber Deaf One

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:17 PM

^ Planning on making it to the October 28th UFO event?

#8 spec-bre

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:37 PM

Alriight- This is my sorta thing. I autox my 510 as much as i can, and have been doin' it for 5 years now. Ii race with the NorCal UFO club (UnitedFive-tenOwners). I won the vintage street prepared class i race in 2010, and have finished as high as 6th at a CORVETTE club event with about 50 cars. My car is low budget made from 98% nissan parts

For some perspective on my setup I have a STREET DRIVEN 4 door 510. Torquey L20b, 280zx trns, 3.90 LSD, if you have an L16/18, you have less frnt weight than I do, if you arent running 280zx brakes, struts, and tranny, you will be lighter than me all around. I say this just in case you are sensitive to spring rates vs weight. Care about moment of inertia, and all the technical fine details.

My Front parts are - 280zx struts w/ coilovers -tokico 240z inserts - 225lb springs, adj T/C rods, shitty camber plates, heim jointed adjustable frnt control arms, susp tech 1-1/8 bar, RUBBER T/C bushings (dont go poly you will regret it-ball joint if you have $ or use a nylon conversion kit - i will soon) slotted rotors with stock pads.

My Rear parts are... camb/cast SLOTTED rear x member (your camber bolt isnt nearly enough adj), 280zx alum drums, slightly more aggressive pads, tokico 510 rear struts, apprx 980lb ROADSTER rear springs, susp.Tech rear bar.

My tires have been 195 60 r14 Falken RT615s, 195 45 R14 Toyos (i forget exactly which @ moment), and most recently Kuhmo V700s. I have also used Hoosier Vintage DOT radials on loan from a friend, but they were pretty damn heat cycled and I wouldnt use them as a basis for much. If you are going to run Slix Or Cantilivers i may not be much help. (especially cantilivers - its a whole nother animal on those)

Notice I am 5 paragraphs in and i have said NOTHING about my alignment? :huh: ? In my mind spewing settings at you is worthless unless you are running a similar setup to mine.

First things first, you probly already know this, but with an open diff, soft rear shox/springs, and stock rear geometry... you will suffer major "lift throttle oversteer" Ya pretty much have to stiffen the crap outta the rear of the car and slot the x member to get rid of that. technically my 980lb STOCK 2000 roadster springs are only semi-stiff. The trick part there is a pair of COMP roadster springs.....good luck finding some. Though i hear there is someone other than Sus-tech and Eibach now making any rate you would like on E-bay (dunno anyone with a set of those though) . Another option is coilovers from ermish racing - then your spring hunting days are over. but thats not my sort of thing. I like the hard way. Coilover rates are obviously do not apply to what I am describing.

IF you are suffering all the above rear ailments no amnt of alignment will really make you happy.My car PLOWED tight corners with major understeer until these things were corrected, I and that is with advanced camber/caster on the front, etc... Worse yet, slaloming becomes highly unstable if you attempt to brake in anything other than a straight line, tire pressures can be messed with to minimize some of this, but then you are giving up total potential grip to solve a geometry problem, not a fast solution. I have NEVER been beaten by a swapped SR/KA car at an event because they almost always dont have a front bar, nor do they go for correct geometry and height in the rear. Without addressing these things NO amount of power can make you fast enough in a line to overcome all you lose in the corners.

That said, my first alignment recommendation is to ditch the eccentric bolts and slot your 'member. Oh, and make sure you are happy with your shox and springs first. With a sufficiently stiff rear and enough toe -in you will eliminate all the gremlins associated with attempting to slow your car. and begin to dial in some oversteer if you would like... once you move to the front of the car.

In front - I have a heavier motor and heavier frnt brakes than stock, I run slightly stiffer springs than may be ideal for other cars,
Now, its popular to get these cars really low, and of course thats good for Autox roll center,etc, but If you dont have strut spacers up front, things will be a little weird. I try run as little camber as I can get away with because I want as much contact patch as I can. furthermore I have shitty Camber plates that dont allow for a full range of adjustment.
To overcome this without spending a buncha money, I run more caster to get camber as the car turns. I like the turn in effect it creates but it does tend to make me end up too close too soon sometimes. Currently I am at 1.5deg camber and 2.5 deg caster. I have been much higher than that caster wise. (remember the Toyo 45 sidewalls...that was from trying LOTS of caster...) Toe can be dead on or slightly out, depending on your taste. mine is out a little.

I am able to write a novel to you on this topic because I have been stuck on a train for a while now, but I am about to come to my stop and will have to finish tomorrow. Probably sometime mid morning. (stay tuned)


WOW!! ;)
ODD, this is GREAT info for sure!! All things I will need to know as I figure out my setup and where I want to be. The biggest issue with the request for "More info on my setup" is I can not give you some of the more pertinent info like spring rates and shocks at this point... The car is running the setup it had 20 years ago short of the poly rear cross member bushings and the "ball &socket" style tc rod ends...
I'll tell you what I can which is not much but maybe enough to get me a base setting.

Engine: L18 with dual 44 Mikuni's (internals unknown), Center force clutch with lightened flywheel, 4 speed

Steering box brace and hardend bushing replacing the soft rubber in the pitman arm.

Front suspension: shortened 510 front struts with ground control coil over conversion, "Front" lower camber bolts, camber plates, strut brace, 1" sway bar, and 1.25" bump steer spacers

Rear: stock cross member (no camber/caster mod as of yet but in the plans), Flipped mustache bar, removed upper rubber bushings on cross member and mustache bar, Poly inserts, 4:38 subi R160 LSD (our venue is a small one), I do have a set of NOS Mulhollands sitting on a shelf that I could toss on if needed.

Tires; currently running a through away set of Hoosier R6's on Konig rewinds in a 14 x 7.5 (I have a set of 13 x 7.5 Libra's that will get Kumo's "A" comps when money allows)

I need to dig more into the car this winter but wanted to hit an event or two before years end. So if I can't come up with a "rough" performance setting I'll start at bone stock.
I do appropriate the great info you have shared. I guess my question was a loaded one!! lol!

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http://i233.photobuc...113DDBDDDE5.jpg

#9 Boaty

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:41 PM

I'm waiting to hear some -6 degree camber statements.
/trolling

This thread is relevant to my interests. Subscribed. :)

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#10 DISLEXICDIME

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:23 PM

this thread has been very informative . thank you very much

#11 O.D.D.

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 05:48 PM

Hey Guys! My pleasure.... like I said "This sorta thing is my bag...baby" (ala austin powers) Im not an ace mechanic, but I LOOOOVE driving, and that ties into my general motion nerdiness in general. :geek: Tires, cornering, grip.... all more fun than rebuilding a transmission.

Ok... BRE... WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRADE CARS???? (sounds like you have a LOT going for you) :thumbup:

you are driving a more capable car than mine for sure. You will know if the rear end is causing problems for you if you drive it hard enough. (probably by ending up backwards) You have eliminated so much slop throughout the suspension, that you should get great feedback from the car which helps a lot too. Responsive cars leave gremlins no where to hide when driven to the fullest.

I am in a whole different world. tires wise, which I feared. I can offer some sort of vague of idea of what I would try, but cant really say I have "done this exact thing with success...blahblah"

Your car is lighter and loads quicker at the wheels than mine for certain. I hope your L18 LOOOVES to rev or the course is REALLY small with that Dif, but I also dont drive a 4 speed. (they may match well given the wider gears). IF you have a good match of Rev and course, goddamn there is potential for a screamer of a ride. :hyper:

Your car is more like one or 2 in a class above mine. I run "VSP" Vintage Street Prepared...limited to cars older than 25 years, on DOT R compounds or less. No slix or 'levers. You could compete in VP effectively (open tires) . The only car running 13x7 in my class is leading me by 2-4 sec in lap times on 45sec -1min laps.

Sounds like you dont really need to pick on on your springs or shocks, they are probably up to the task - the rest of the car seems pretty well rounded.

Given that...I will attempt some projections. Somewhere between 2.5 and 3.5 deg frnt camber isnt a ridiculous starting point, The more caster you add, the heavier the steering gets, but it can add some stability. Which may be good if your tail end doesnt want to stay behind the front end. Seems to me you have a LOT of rear tire and The ability to get LOW....which can do a lot to help. Try to get as much rear toe in as you can. Keep the rear tires as flat as you can (1-1.5deg camber) Make the rear bar as stiff as possible if it is adjustable. Feel free to be more radical than this, but starting out weird doesnt make sense to me. If there is understeer you stay pointed in the right direction and are forced to become a better driver by holding a better line next time. (blame me)

IF YOU IGNORE EVERYTHING i HAVE SAID THUS FAR ... THE NEXT 2 THINGS WILL STILL MAKE YOU FASTER... NO MATTER WHAT KIND OF CAR YOU DRIVE, OR HOW SHITTY (or well) IT IS SET UP. this can be used outside of Auto-x world too,,, kinda.

And... if you dont have the money for these things, how did you get the money go to Auto-x???

BUY A WHITE SHOE POLISH APPLICATOR!!! $2.50 and idiot proof for knowing how much sidewall you are using. ... mark the outside tread, corner, and edge of sidewall with WHITE shoe polish. As you drive this will rub off... you want to use ALL tread and rollover area of tire. If you are not, PRESSURE IS TOO HIGH. (for max potential grip) If you are rolling over sidewalls Pressure is too low (or you are getting positive camber from a stock setup) Once you are there you are in the apprx neighborhood of pressure you want. If you have to really drop your pressures to do this , chances are you are over cambered or over stiff, depending on car behavior.... ( If think its... oversteer=xs camber understeer = xs stiff not certain) If you are at high pressure and still all over the tire, you are too soft or undercambered.

BUY A PYROMETER!!! $20-$40 and priceless for track day perfection. This tool is worth 2 seconds sometimes. A frikkn $20000 motor doesnt always do that much for you.

How to read tires...

1 asap after lap (seconds if possible)
2 take 3 readings - inside middle outside.
3 write that shit down on a piece of paper with your lap time. (u may get a timing slip that works perfect for both)
4 dont lose the paper with the shit you wrote on it
5 Do the thinking part (more on that in a sec)
6 take tire pressures and make adjustments. (write pressures before and after on paper too)a
7 repeat EVERY lap!!! (incl AFTER LAST ONE)

The thinking part (again a picture is worth 1000 words) ... If you already know how to read pressures and make adjustments my apologies. this will be wordy.

What you want is even temp across the tire. right now I cant remember how hot... something like over 140 is warm enough for good grip. (someone tell me if I am off of this, I just remember the adjusting part)
  • Too much camber/stiffness and inside temps will be highest, too little and outsides will be highest..
  • Too much pressure and middle temp will be highest, too little and outsides will be highest.
  • You will notice your tire pressure is much higher after a lap than it was when cold. this is normal and desired.
  • What you care about is bleeding off PSI or Adding PSI in small increments to max the tire and help balance the handling of the car.
  • Lower pressure raises temps. - more rubbin and scrubbin off your tires tho.

Other tire tips...
  • a CO DRIVER is a legal cheater way to keep temps up depending on how your events are run.
  • too much time between laps means tires go cold - you may have to deal with tires warming the first part of each lap. HOOSIER A6 tires freaking ROCK so.... dont cry about it.
  • too many laps too quick and tires can start giving you weird numbers if cooked or getting heat cycled.
  • beware of temping flatspots you JUST MADE if you fucked up last lap.
WHAT FEELS FAST AND WHAT IS FAST ARE NOT ALWAYS THE SAME. THIS IS WHY YOU WRITE TIMES DOWN WITH SETTINGS.. one of the things that annoys me is that my car still does some weird things when I am REALLY fast, that I attempt to correct, and then I go slower but it feels so much better. :wacko: so I have to go back to weird and fast. D'oh!

If you are stupid serious about all this, having a capable helper is worth the weight of dragging them to the event as a passenger, Almost worth feeding them something too, if they do a good job.

The people that get NUTS about this make tire covers and stuff to keep in heat... they will nitpick everything I have said as totally wrong under this or that reason, but this sh*t is more art than science sometimes and they already know that.

There is no accounting for your driving style in anything I have said. I spent my first season pissed off and pushing my front tires to the point of flat spots because I REFUSED to let off the gas pedal, and wanted to car to drive like in the movies.

If you are rusty or new to Autox, dont forget SLOW IN = FAST OUT. Regardless of your setup you will be faster if you enter a corner under control, add throttle in a linear fashion and maintain all possible momentum.

Any time you have to exit a corner in a tighter fashion than you entered it, you are giving up a LOT more time in the next section than you saved in the previous one. If you are braking at or through the apex and not doing some sort of trick Left foot trail braking shit - YOU ARE LOSING TIME

Ok - done with chapter 3.... Looking for publishers soon... :rolleyes:

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#12 spec-bre

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:16 PM

Man you are "wordy"!!! Lol! And I apriceate every last one!!!

Thanks for the props. I'm looking forward to taking this car out for my 1st time in it and it's 1st time in 20 years!!!

I can't get too carried away with the car just yet. There will be an engine build to take place this winter (I have a second L18 awaiting a set of new flat tops and a fully prepped Rebello head) as well as a tire swap by next season. The white shoe polish and parameter will be in my track side tool kit;) I'm not looking to kill snakes or set records but more so to escape the daily grind as well as I love to drive!! I'll do what I can to get full contact at the rear tire and will take your advice on front camber starting point. Thank you again for you input and sharing you experience!!

#13 68Datsun510

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:24 PM

Kenny kenny kenny, had no idea this was you till the pics!!!

WE DEMAND VIDEOS OF THIS CAR IN ACTION!!!

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#14 O.D.D.

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:27 PM

^ Planning on making it to the October 28th UFO event?


I dont do much planning. Im more like this.... :frantics:

The rest of the UFO events are kinda a toss for me this year. I have already missed a few, and I am not in contention to win anything this year. The following week I am taking 4 days off cuz a friend is coming to town.

IF I make it , it will be because I "called in sick"

I will be coming with what is left of 2 cycled, and 2 heavily corded V700's that are 2 seasons old now, so Im tempted to save the $ towards a new set for next year. A single trip is almost $200 for me between gas, food, and entry. (I live 3 hrs south) If I ditch the rest of the year, I should have enuf $ for fresh tires next year.

However....

Oh wait, U have a KA car? Do you have a front bar yet? I really want to start competing against some better swapped cars.... there are a few guys that come from Santa Cruz and Jose, SR, KA, and VG... all missing bars. Drifter with a SuperchrgdKA 510 has a bar I think, but he doesnt drive for times.

Unless you show up with better tires... I will getcha. :devil: ... With my Little L20b using stock internals and little SU's,...heck my car still uses the cast manifold... mwuhahahah! (evil laugh) (Long live the L MOTOR!!!)

If you have a bar and decent tires... and think you can wipe the grin off my face right now... we may have need for a FRIENDLY (im not an asshole - promise) throwdown... I may even get my 13x7 Cooper LITES out and run out of class... if you are SURE you are faster....there are still 3 other L motor 510s faster than I am... only 1 is street driven to events like mine, and mine is fastest DAILY driver for some time now. ( unless you count my buddies roadster...)

In fact - Goddamnit I want a OLD vs NEW - Rebels VS Empire - Darkside vs lightside- ULTIMATE DRIVELINE SHOWDOWN.
I mean get a good sampling of at least 10 of each camp. 10 L motors vs 10 Swaps. at least....

try and come up with at least 4 or 5 groups of "comparable competition" and see just whos money was best spent... daily drivers on street tires all the way to Non-opped racers with tube frames....

Yup... im daydreaming again... :)

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#15 spec-bre

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:34 PM

Yep. It is I! A man of many questions!!! Lol!

#16 68Datsun510

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:34 PM

Dammit man! Im 2.5hrs east of the UFO runs, all this posting has me wanting to get back into autoxing!!! I have an L19 (not a typo)w/DGV, ZX trans, roadster clutch, had a 4.11 LSD in there, but needs rebuild, 175# front springs and 240# ish rear wheel rate, front 7/8 bar, rear 3/4 bar. Tires are Falken 329 M+S tires hahahahahah, they work ok though.

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#17 O.D.D.

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:45 PM

Kenny kenny kenny, had no idea this was you till the pics!!!

WE DEMAND VIDEOS OF THIS CAR IN ACTION!!!


Ok - im not the smartest blogger... Who is kenny? Im not kenny...is BRE kenny? What pics? Where pics??

(Im Dan - in case anyone gives a damn)

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#18 spec-bre

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:53 PM

Well Damn Dan, I am Kenny. Also a member of the bluebird google group;)

#19 O.D.D.

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 07:00 PM

Dammit man! Im 2.5hrs east of the UFO runs, all this posting has me wanting to get back into autoxing!!! I have an L19 (not a typo)w/DGV, ZX trans, roadster clutch, had a 4.11 LSD in there, but needs rebuild, 175# front springs and 240# ish rear wheel rate, front 7/8 bar, rear 3/4 bar. Tires are Falken 329 M+S tires hahahahahah, they work ok though.


Dont see Too many L19s. Bored longrod L18 or something? I have been considering a L16/18 hybrid cuz I have the parts layin about.

Where didya get rear springs from,,,, Dodge truck? Old stock somewhere? SusTech? I am not used to discussing them in wheel rate, just spring rate, which are kinda weird and high compared to coilovers so people get confused.

Im kinda a 32/36 hater. My L20b became a whole nuther animal when I took it off. I want another one for my stupid wagon tho.
Iv gotta lightened steel L2ob Flywheel, fresh clutch, and used but totally fine roadster plate.... ....keeping it for a rainy day, but if you are interested... I swapped to 280x stuff to get 10lb flywheel. only one that works stock is Kameari and $$$$$$$. Offset some desired pedal response with larger diameter clutch. life goes on....

Sounds like you can get those tires nice and loose when you want...! :thumbup:

I am down in San Luis Obispo Cnty. so really like 2.5 hrs too, but I meet up with buddies, get gas, McDs and go... so 3 hrs. lol

IF you and UBERDEAF both come - we can all kill some pizza afterwards with at least 3 other datsun guys that are usually there. That is one of my favorite parts of the day.

BEWARE - there are 2 extremely fast WOMEN that run in our classes if anyone knows MARY POZZI - her camaro was in the optima shootout, and was fans choice to be in GT5. She is DAMN fast in a BIG car, and will check your ego in a heartbeat. She is also really nice and where I learned a lot of the rusty/starter driving tips I gave a while back.

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS


#20 O.D.D.

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 07:02 PM

Well Damn Dan, I am Kenny. Also a member of the bluebird google group;)


lol not a bluebird googleer yet, but I am the dork that posts pics of My low budget car on the 510 fanatics facebook group every time I get jealous of all the high dollar cars I cant afford.

"....He Drove a DATSUN, an automatic....the Radio a Blarin' static...." Lyrics from Over the Electric Grapevine - PRIMUS