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Hooking up a Electronic Choke on a weber


1lo620

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Ok I have a 74 620 with a manual choke weber on it.. But I am putting on a new weber with electronic choke.. Is there a way to wire this up so it works.. And if so, can someone explain it to me.. FYI.. not the best mechanic in the world, but if you explain it I could probly figure it out... I hope...LOL!!!! thanks for the help in advance!!!

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Wire it to a power source that is only hot when the key is in the "ON" position. I wire mine to the coil, because it's close(less wire clutter), and because it only gets juice when the key is on.

 

Do I hook it up to the positive side I am assuming? I know that probly is a dumb question, but I did say i wasnt the best mechanic...LOL!!!!

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Of course, you could always use the stock wiring.

 

Unless it's been removed. I don't know how stripped out your engine compartment is. A '74 came with an auto-choke relay from the factory, which was driven by the voltage regulator. There was an electric choke in the truck originally, so the carb's wiring harness included a choke wire. On a '74 I think that wire come out of the firewall harness, but I'm not positive. Mine's been hacked to pieces. If the wires were stripped out then you need to find a new power source, though running it off the coil isn't the best idea it'll work. But if the coil is STOCK on a '74, with the external ballast resistor, you don't want to use that either. You'd need to run it to the high side of the ballast.

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:blink: :crying: I will take it my friend that is a mechanic. He has done work for me before...I dont want to screw up any electrical crap in my truck... But thanks for the help!!

Just curious, if I dont hook it up, I will just have to hold the gas pedal to warm it up right?

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Dataholic

My 521 has a stock wire and when I turn the key On the wire is then HOT.

But I just assumed(620s) was the same as a 521.

 

 

Just curious, if I dont hook it up, I will just have to hold the gas pedal to warm it up right?

The choke stays on ALLTHE TIME!!!!!!!!!!! when there is NO POWER

putting the POWER/voltage to the choke is really just a heater coil. when it gets HOT it will open the choke plate.thus no more.

choke.

 

one way to pybass this as you mention is looses the 2 or 3 screw and turn the plastic circle till the plates are open up. Then you can just pump the gas till its warm and that will work.

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Hainz:

 

Dunno about the 521, never had a running one, and all but the '72 had manual chokes IIRC. 620s have choke relays operated by the voltage regulator, so that when the alternator light is on, the choke heater is off.

 

 

Dave:

 

Hainz is right, you leave it diconnected it'll start fine, but the choke will be closed (or mostly closed, engine room heat will open it a little) AND it'll be stuck in high idle. Back off the choke so it's always open, the at least it;ll be open BUT you'll also have no high idle, and it'll be harder to start especially come October.

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Dave..mines a 74 & im running a elec choke weber. Used the same wire that went to the hirachi. Ill text a pic of it to you today.

 

 

thats what I did with my 521 as it had a choke wire. However I never like the auto choke. as it stayed on to long . I turn the plactic circle till the choke plate was open and called it good. I now have a manual Weber on they.

 

there is a conversion cap also if you want to use the manual set up pull cable

 

Doug,

late 521s under the 72 year had electric choke wire.

I dont know if they is a relay or not, never looked

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  • 2 weeks later...

Run power off the Ignition relay in your engine compartment or use the ignition relay to run a bosch relay pulling power directly off the battery. The choke only requires 12v constant not alot of amperage, so pulling from the ignition relay would be fine. If you wanted a protected circuit, a Bosch relay with an 1N4001 Diode to prevent feedback and a 10 amp fuse should do fine. Power the relay from the ignition relay (min 7v to activate). Note the diode is to prevent reverse coil discharge.

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  • 1 year later...

WARNING......if by chance the + wire you are using does not have a relay or a fuse/breaker of some sort, and say your little heater coil in the electric choke gets too hot, due to other issues....it could cause the wire you ran to the + side to burn/ignite catch fire, and so on.

 

Its not likely, but it can and has happened...just food for thought.

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  • 1 month later...

Well I took my Carb to alondra carburators and it got rebuilt had issues with it the first time i installed it it it was drivable and i took it to his shop to adjust it only charged me 20 adn he hooked me up ,my 620 is rolling great cant complain .

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