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Replacing Piston Rings......HELP Please.

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#81 rbastedo



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Posted 25 September 2014 - 01:37 PM

Thanks everyone, just read through the whole thing. Very good reminder of what to do / not do before I get my new rings.

#82 ryanthomas1



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Posted 03 January 2015 - 04:34 PM

For the love of god and ratsun, please clock your rings appropriately to prevent heavy blow by.

I do mine 180 degrees of eachother if no spec is given by the ring manufacturer.

Also, a pair of ring pliers would be great , helpful for installing them without breaking them. Practice with the old rings to get used to handling them. While your in there replace bearings , there cheap and tighten up the clearances.
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#83 datzenmike



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Posted 03 January 2015 - 05:33 PM

They also can't be facing along the length of the crankshaft or at 90 degrees to it.  This leaves the top one at either of the four  45 degree angles and the second one 180 to that.

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#84 84720FourWheel


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Posted 13 January 2015 - 05:33 PM

During lower engine class my instructor explained why older engines had to have the ridges reamed.

They used to use high tension rings, which are generally made of cast iron. This wears the block faster, and since the rings don't go up to the top of the cylinder, it leaves a ridge of unworn metal.

Most engines made after the mid eighties use low tension rings. You can compress th em fairly easily by hand. I forget what they are made of. I want to say CrMo.
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