Eastcoast521 Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 I don't know if a lot of you know this but when you replace a master cylinder or run yours dry during bleeding, you should "bench bleed" the cylinder before you try to bleed the brakes or clutch. Bench bleeding gets all of the air out of the cylinder before it gets into the lines. It's really easy to do: Unhook the brake line or clutch cylinder line from the master. Get a length of brake line and bend it so that the fitting screws into the cylinder and the other end goes to the bottom of the reservoir. Fill with fluid and pump the pedal until you see no more air bubbles. Unscrew the short line and reinstall your regular hard line and bleed as normal. I just used the speed bleeder screws from HELP (3/8"-24) and they are a godsend. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 Good info & TY. Ill be replacing the brake master on the 620 soon. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Excellent reminder. I'll be replacing my master cylinder (it blew out this weekend) as soon as the new one comes in the mail. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted August 30, 2008 Report Share Posted August 30, 2008 I just used the speed bleeder screws from HELP (3/8"-24) and they are a godsend. Hey eastcoast, are the 3/8-24 bleeders for stock cylinders, and are the they same for the front and back? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Eastcoast521 Posted September 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 You can use the same size on the front and back wheel cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder. They work great. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 lol i so didnt see this the other day.. Quote Link to comment
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