demo243 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 OK…. Time to finally post em up… looks like my phone F-ed up and uploaded things to photo bucket multiple times…. so my hope of finding a faster way was frutile... Any way... I left you all off with a radiator that wasn't quite bolted up Had to grind down the lip in front of the radiator… it had a weird bow inward there making it wider in the middle then at the edges.. this required me to space out the top much further then the bottom… spaced the rad inward a bit up top and it cleared… but could easily contact under vibration…. and thanks to new motor mounts and a heavy cam the motor vibrates ALOT… so I ground down the lip. seems to all be clear now. Will probably take DUKES advise and get some of the rubber mounts Clearance between the Rad and the Alt is tighter… but still has a good solid finger gap so good enough for me 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hood doesn't sit level… never has… think it makes it look kinda mean Cap of the radiator that was in the car was too big for Koyo so I splurged and picked this up Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hard to get good shots of brake lines…. But the whole car is run with this stuff including the clutch line… Nickel copper… got the first coil from JEGS then ran out and got another from O'Reilly for about the same price… the same day I ordered it! Its not cheap… but so worth it. So much easier to bend. Kind of a pain to get the coil straight, but doesn't matter to much since you are going to bend it anyway… and the "not straightness" of it actually saved my ass after i put the rear split in at a different orientation then stock and I was able to "pull" and extra 1/2" out of the line to make a bend. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Oh yea… almost forgot the underside of the installed Lokar Cable and E brake handle Mounted up pretty nicely. Clears my drive shaft no problem and keeps the parking brake nice and TIGHT… although I do have quite the bruise under my arm from reaching over the door jam at the bottom with one arm under the car and one over trying to tighten everything down And last but not least… at least for now… until I figure out if Photobucket got all my photos from my phone Back on the ground and driving!!!! Still need to play around with the prop valve … and figure out why my temp gauge stopped reading... 2 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Not much to update- Got her out on the road and ripping. Brakes work great. Have been playing around with the proportioning valve… but not dialed in yet. Really need a long straight empty freshly paved stretch of road…. Got my wilwood MC reservoirs mounted up. Nice screw caps and much more volume for the rear brakes. used to go through the whole rear reservoir with 3 pumps when bleeding. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Other issues have arisen though... Temp gauge definitely does not work anymore… which makes me nervous… I don't want to rip the shit out of her with out knowing how hot she is. And this new KOYO rad feels hot… coolant is definitely flowing through it. Need to out in an overflow container… seems I may have slightly over filled it as it still dripping out of the overflow tube. I guess I need to pull the dash and see whats going on with the wire from the sensor… Can I replace just the sensor or do I need to do the whole thermostat? what are the chances its just the sensor or something with the thermostat? Also in other electrical gremlins… She still doesn't alway turn off when the key is turned off and removed… noticed today that the charge light was on as well with the key out of the ignition... Electrical stuff is definitely not my forte so suggestions would be very helpful Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 OK…. Time to finally post em up… looks like my phone F-ed up and uploaded things to photo bucket multiple times…. so my hope of finding a faster way was frutile... Any way... I left you all off with a radiator that wasn't quite bolted up Had to grind down the lip in front of the radiator… it had a weird bow inward there making it wider in the middle then at the edges.. this required me to space out the top much further then the bottom… spaced the rad inward a bit up top and it cleared… but could easily contact under vibration…. and thanks to new motor mounts and a heavy cam the motor vibrates ALOT… so I ground down the lip. seems to all be clear now. Will probably take DUKES advise and get some of the rubber mounts Clearance between the Rad and the Alt is tighter… but still has a good solid finger gap so good enough for me So I like what your doing here but why did you space it out so much, now you have air getting by the radiator. I got a custom made CBR radiator made for my 521 and it sits flush and i put a pusher fan on the outside between the grill and the radiator and it works like a champ. Looks good though Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Other issues have arisen though... Temp gauge definitely does not work anymore… which makes me nervous… I don't want to rip the shit out of her with out knowing how hot she is. And this new KOYO rad feels hot… coolant is definitely flowing through it. Need to out in an overflow container… seems I may have slightly over filled it as it still dripping out of the overflow tube. I guess I need to pull the dash and see whats going on with the wire from the sensor… Can I replace just the sensor or do I need to do the whole thermostat? what are the chances its just the sensor or something with the thermostat? Also in other electrical gremlins… She still doesn't alway turn off when the key is turned off and removed… noticed today that the charge light was on as well with the key out of the ignition... Electrical stuff is definitely not my forte so suggestions would be very helpful It could just be the sending unit and if you have not yet change the thermostat anyway its cheap and with the aluminum radiator dump the anti freeze and run redline water wetter and distilled water, you will find such as I have you get this white gunky build up. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Also did you buy the locker cables to or just the handle,looks really good. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 So I like what your doing here but why did you space it out so much, now you have air getting by the radiator. I got a custom made CBR radiator made for my 521 and it sits flush and i put a pusher fan on the outside between the grill and the radiator and it works like a champ. Looks good though I had to space it out so much to clear the lip… the brackets welded to the radiator are not deep enough. Also since I have such a heavy cam in the car, the motor moves a lot at low RPM so I wanted to have a little extra clearance since the rad moves a little bit too. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 I have not changed the thermostat… so I guess I might as well… I think the issue might be more in the wiring … although after looking at the sensor coming out of the thermostat it looks original... I will definitely look into that Water wetter stuff. not worried about freezing here in CA! Also did you buy the locker cables to or just the handle,looks really good. :thumbup: I was going to try and do it without the lokar cable since they are really expensive… but I couldn't find a simple cut your own cable to adapt the stock e-brake stuff so I just ponied up and bought the lokar cable. Wasn't cheap but was totally worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Good to know, I might go that route in my truck and as for my wagon I'll cross that bridge when I get there. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 The brake handle is pretty awesome. Nice and clean. they do a chrom version also. If you do go with the lokar handle I would definitely suggest going with their cable system as well. just use clamps to route your housing/cable to the brakes. I only ended up needing one on the 510. Stock the 510 has about 5 feet of housing, with the lokar set up its only 2-3 per side and it splits to two cables right out of the handle 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Was definitely a worth while upgrade… although I am still going for the t handle e brake when i park lol 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 I hear ya.lol thanks for the input. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Ebay makes it way to easy to buy things…. Definitely just bought a 4.44 diff... Praying it comes with 10mm ring gear bolts since I have two spare center units running those… but I believe my 3.7 diff has 11mm bolts so if I need to I will pillage that. Ot just have a machine shop drill em out Its probably going to be way to short gearing wise… but who give a fuck… its time for some absurd acceleration… and maybe an 80mph top speed. Diff is out of a newer Subaru. Plan is to swap in one of my older center units so it can be run with stock 510 stub axles… which by the way I could use a few extra sets… like 2? maybe three….I will keep you all posted on that little project! Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 received my 4.44 diff today… HOT DAMN this thing is clean!!!!!!! I am almost definitely trying to order some of these diff gaskets too… I believe nissan still has them… going to check subaru soon. Another torn apart shot my plan was to hopefully use one of the two spare open center units I have to convert this diff to be datsun friendly (its out of a 99? forester)… unfortunately as I expected,… it used the 11mm ring gear bolts. I believe the 3.7 open i just bolted back together uses 11mm ring gear bolts… but i would rather not tear it apart again since i just bolted it back up… so I had the idea of transferring the spider gears from my datsun stub axle compatible center unit to the new 4.44 center unit… in theory it should work since the units look the same… and truly should be subaru 4.44 unit Datsun 3.9? unit Unfortunately … it wasn't that easy… the retaining pin for the 4.44 spider gears came out very easy…. but the pins on both my datsun 3.9 ?? units will not come out…the housing all looks the same but the pins are not. The subaru looks hollow… the datsun looks solid, with some safety punches Ive torn my old 3.9 apart before… so not sure why I can't now… but it was so long ago i don't remember exactly what I did 1 Quote Link to comment
FirstDime Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 That diff is purdy, so many glorious diffs.. That lokar e brake is pretty sweet too!!! This dime is ready for some more track time :) 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Yea.. it is super clean Need to go back under the car and tighten the e-brake up a hair but its seems to work really well. I just started a new job which leaves me with Sat and sunday free… so I was hoping to jump in on that thunder hill track day… but unfortunately the drivers school section is sold out... So below is a shot of the spider gear out of the 4.44 center unit. I was hoping to swap in gears from an older 3.9 center unit to allow use of the bolt in stubs… looks like the diff project will be put on hold for a short time. I have a lead on some spare stub axles and a LSD center unit. So plan now is to build this 4.44 as a LSD 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Alright… so hopefully this lsd unit comes through, or else Ill need to tear apart the 3.7 to use its center unit as a donor to get this 4.44 running I finally got one of my spare 3.9 center units pulled apart and noticed the spider gears were slightly different. particularly the small side ones that the retaining pin runs through. Figured I would try swapping them in anyway and everything fit in… but there was noticeable slop in the spider gears…. so scratch that plan New subie style on the left - old bolt in style on the right. 4.44 center unit spider gear on left, 3.9 gear on the right 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 So I think I have said it before… My girlfriend works for an awesome company… we recently picked up a nice Nikon DS3200 from them as a christmas gift… so I finally have an awesome camera to take pictures with. Played around with the colors on some of these... 2 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Sorry Lots of Photos Don't you EVER apologize for this again....... 3 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Don't you EVER apologize for this again....... I was more apologizing for those with shitty internet Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 I was more apologizing for those with shitty internet Sucks for them..... ......get with the times..... Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Jeez what a jerk. Quote Link to comment
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