demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Oh yea, went with the calipers underneath to keep a semi stock e brake mounting. When I eventually replace my lokar cable I will probably try and swap the calipers up to the top, but mounted on the bottom I could use the same cable from the drums Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Had a serious issue with the rears dragging, and read about pulling the residual springs. So went into my 7/8th and pulled the rear… then out of curiosity I pulled the front which appeared to be the same This was a cheap auto zone master cylinder for anyone inquiring Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 helped the draggin a little bit… but made an ongoing issue with of double pump worse. Wasn't sure if it was because of air/ a bad master or because the 7/8 couldn't push enough fluid for the front wilwoods…. decided screw it and bumped up to a 15/16th master Straight from NAPA … more then I wanted to spend… but it worked! Bolted up the new master and bleed the master itself on the car and the brake pedal felt 100 times better. Went through and bled the calipers and it got even better! I think i might need need a brake master brace now though… I am still having a bit of rear brake drag… but its drivable. I need to go back in and try to fully recess the pistons again… if that doesn't work I might try shaving the pads 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Signed up for my second track day as well. Dec. 19th at thunder hill . Sounds like were are going to have a crew of 510's there! stoked! Picked up some racing brake fluid… preferred ATE super blue… but since the US banned blue brake fluid.. WTF? … it has become hard to find. Read some good reviews on this stuff. Also ordered some front coil overs and camber plates + a brake master brace from T3. Hoping they will be here this week so I can install this weekend. Short term solution for the rear is just a cut 18"Eibach spring. Went with 350lb front springs and a 650lb single rear which when cut in half will be ~1300lb I know thats pretty stiff but the north bay crew all seems to be headed that direction... Hoping to have all that installed this weekend… if it shows up... Next step is to deal with my oil drip. My plan is to bump from 10w30 to 20w50… but I don't think that will solve the issue…. Hoping I can possibly pull the motor and reseal it before the track day. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Future plans right now are a pretty big toss up… I had always planned with building a race L motor… but a few recent ideas have begun to point me toward a Carb'ed KA24DE…. Crazy thought and not cheap… but there are a few people running them and I am kinda excited about the possibility…. Thats a decent ways away though... Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Oh yea.. not to long ago a few photos of the 510 that got me hooked were posted to my Fbook page so I feel I must post them. This is the car that convinced me to sell my subaru and started my downfall into 510s 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 More updates to come soon! Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Oh yea… hahah another issue that has surfaced… my speedo has been bouncing and reading high… I thought it was the cable so I got a new cable and replaced it, That helped… under 50 it reads fine… but over 50mph it starts to bounce 10-20 mph and reads high as well… kinda stumped now going to go in and pull the cable, and lube it… and check the gear in the trans as well as change the trans fluid... Future plans I think will include a set of auto meter gauges……. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 You can try switching to 15w-40 diesel oil first. Like delo or whatever. Diesel oil still has really high zinc content and other additives that old motors appreciate. When the L series were built that crap was in all the oil. Now it's been removed because it can clog modern catalytic converters. Diesel oils still have the good stuff. Also, you can upgrade to DOT 5.1 brake fluid. NOT 5, it must be 5.1. DOT 5 is silicon based and incompatible with almost everything. DOT 5.1 is the evolution after 4, just as 4 is an upgrade to 3. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 You can try switching to 15w-40 diesel oil first. Like delo or whatever. Diesel oil still has really high zinc content and other additives that old motors appreciate. When the L series were built that crap was in all the oil. Now it's been removed because it can clog modern catalytic converters. Diesel oils still have the good stuff. Also, you can upgrade to DOT 5.1 brake fluid. NOT 5, it must be 5.1. DOT 5 is silicon based and incompatible with almost everything. DOT 5.1 is the evolution after 4, just as 4 is an upgrade to 3. Thanks I had been running Valvoline VR1 10w30 since it has all the Zddp stuff in it,.. but it seems they have discontinued that weight so I was going to bump up to 20w50 Valvoline VR1 Interesting I will have to look into the 5.1 stuff. I never had trouble with super blue and doubt I will with this Motul stuff since it has similar boiling points and good reviews on heavier cars Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Yeah VR1 is good stuff, because of the additives. That's why they call race oil, so it isn't used with cats. The diesel oil has the same additives, it's built for heavier abuse than you can ever throw and it won't cost you an arm and a leg. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Had a serious issue with the rears dragging, and read about pulling the residual springs. Are these inside the side bleeder, or where the lines go in underneath? Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Are these inside the side bleeder, or where the lines go in underneath? The residual valves are in where the hard lines go into the master. So you need to remove those big hex nuts. I needed to put the master in the vice Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 The residual valves are in where the hard lines go into the master. So you need to remove those big hex nuts. I needed to put the master in the vice Cool. I'll check into that. :thumbup: Somehow I've owned/built 26 510s but this current build is my first rear disc swap... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Not sure how much use it is, but drum brake masters in these Datsuns have around 10 lb residuals and disc only have about 2 lb residual Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Not sure how much use it is, but drum brake masters in these Datsuns have around 10 lb residuals and disc only have about 2 lb residual Thats why I tried removing the residual since the 7/8 was from a 280z which had drums... Now I am running a 15/16 which is from a 280zx which has rear discs… next step for me is to ensure that the pistons are fully pushed in Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Not sure how much use it is, but drum brake masters in these Datsuns have around 10 lb residuals and disc only have about 2 lb residual Mine is kind of a hodgepodge. 80s Maxima rear calipers, 90s Sentra front calipers, 280ZX (rear) discs used all around. But based on sizing of caliper pistons I used a 510 master (obviously made for drums). Sounds like I might need to take it apart now... ^_^ Quote Link to comment
Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 I wasn't stoked on the wilwood pads that came with my front calipers, so I decided to go back to Hawk HP+ pads - used these on my Subaru and loved em I just put these in the Wilwoods on my wagon. Bedded them in last week, and damn they grab hard. Huge improvement over what was in there (comparable to the Wilwood pads). 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 I just put these in the Wilwoods on my wagon. Bedded them in last week, and damn they grab hard. Huge improvement over what was in there (comparable to the Wilwood pads). Yea they worked great in my 3600lb subaru and so far on the street they are killer in the 510. Only downfall is they tend to squeal a bit at low speed stops such as stop signs Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Another fun night in the garage... Got out there last night and tore a few things down. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Went to put in a pedal stop since the prior owner cut off the original. Unforutnatly in trying to chisel off the remnants instead of grinding it down I added another hole to the floor… will need to get this welded back up… but then got a pedal stop in. Still need to have the nut welded to the body, but for now it will work. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 then I got to installing the T3 brake master brace. it showed up short a nut… and the mounting hardware was much smaller then the holes machined into the bracket so I hit up ACE for some stainless steel hardware Then marked my holes with sharpie and then a punch and then drilled from the fender side in and then clearances the holes to the bolt size with the dremel. Thinking on it after I installed it I should go get some big fat fender washers to help brace it from the backside in the fender well 2 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Then I got to putting the T3 coil overs together Got everything lined up and the top bolt for the strut shaft bottomed out… Was pretty bummed…. Nothing ever fits on this car… needed new hardware and new brackets for the wilwoods to clear 13" libres… T3 Header Heatshield didn't clear the header or match my mikuni intake/ mikuni 44s… rear disc brackets needed spacers to space out the calipers… needed new hardware for the brake master brace…. At this point I just assume nothing will fit…. 2 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 After figuring out it was the nut bottoming on the strut I got to grinding and filing... Nut on the left is straight from T3 - Nut on the right is ground down enough to snug up the whole set up I need more space... Oh and a photo of the struts I am using… They are in shortened stock 510 struts. 1 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 I feel your pain. I think the beauty of these cars is the endless customization one can do. Each one is one of a kind. But, even though the aftermarket companies developing new parts try to make them as "bolt on" as possible, that's usually not the case. And that frustrates the hell out of me/everyone!!! lol. once you get whatever it is your installing to work it's a great feeling. glad you got it to work. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
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