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Red 71 4dr - Carbed KA24DE


demo243

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The most important thing when pulling the head is keeping the chain tensioner from popping out. You can wedge a screwdriver handle down in there or get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Q8TV4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1429108495&sr=8-1&keywords=datsun+chain+tool&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31V0G12PR8L&ref=plSrch

 

Prior to that you should drain the coolant, unbolt intake and exhaust manifolds. Disconnect all hoses. Unbolt cam bolt holding sprocket on. Wedge screwdriver or timing chain tool in between chain. Take off sprocket and set chain aside. Unbolt head and and voila.

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Gonna hold off on tearing it down… 

 

 

But heres more-

 

In the never ending ordeal of shit that doesn't fit on my datsun...

 

510T kindly let me borrow one of his 13" minilite wheels… and damn it it doesn't fit… this brake kit is supposed to fit "most" 13" wheels… excluding tylers minilites and my steelies… 0 for 2 as of now

 

 

 

It just barely catches the caliper… can't really see it since the scuff on top was so small it rubbed off

 

 

 

 

 

Then the next item up for test fitting that failed was the T3 heat shield I picked up. Looks like it would clear fine on the longer Cannon style manifolds… but I have the nice short Mikuni one….  and no love. The # 4 header pipe comes out at a 90 degree angle making it a no go ...

 

 

 

going to shoot T3 an email on it and see if they have dealt with this before….

 

But… most likely going to do some custom bending and cutting to make it fit… here are my two initial cardboard templates

 

 

I think even with those sections of header sticking out it will still be worth putting on --- oh and you can see where the #3 tube has already been clearanced to help fit the carb.

 

Not going to do anything till I get the Mikunis as they may not need as much clearance below them as the Webers did, so I might be able to just bend the shield up more and cut out less

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing really good to update...

Car has been sitting like this for a while...



Finally got around to customizing the T3 heat shield I picked up... At this point I'm kinda wishing I disn't start, and I just sent it back. ...

Cut the holes for the #2 and#4 pipe clearances ... Only to realize #1 needs a clearance too... Also had to add some more bend to it...



And only after realizing all that did I realize that the holes for the fuel/air to go through are 1/4 smaller then those on the intake... Not sure about the Mikunis I am waiting on... But the spacers are the same size as the intake ...





I'm worried about this disrupting the flow of air/fuel...,

Also had to file out the stud holes...

At this point I might just call it a loss and give up on it...

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I guess I'm bitchier than the rest of you. By the time I put that much effort in to something, quitting is admitting that it won and I have been defeated. Never give up, never give in! Finish the heat shield.

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By the time I put that much effort in to something, quitting is admitting that it won and I have been defeated. Never give up, never give in! Finish the heat shield.

 

I'd at this point be making my own. Which is probably what I'd have done in the first place.   ^_^

 

In fact, I think I'm going to go buy some stainless tomorrow and make one for my car...   :rofl:

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I guess I'm bitchier than the rest of you. By the time I put that much effort in to something, quitting is admitting that it won and I have been defeated. Never give up, never give in! Finish the heat shield.

 

Kinda on this train of thought... Started and need to finish it...

 

Might wait for my carbs to show up before finishing...

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the other thing i realized is that i will probably need a gasket between either the intake and the shield or the carbs and the shield…. since there is a double o ring plastic spacer between the carb and the manifold

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Just a heads up.  The O ring style insulators that you have will not work with 44mm Mikuni's.  The flange on the Mikuni's has a plugged hole that will cause a vacuum leak if used with this style insulator.  Have Todd at Wolf Creek send you the correct insulators along with your carbs.

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Just a heads up. The O ring style insulators that you have will not work with 44mm Mikuni's. The flange on the Mikuni's has a plugged hole that will cause a vacuum leak if used with this style insulator. Have Todd at Wolf Creek send you the correct insulators along with your carbs.

Hmmm Todd said this was the style he used.... I'll have to confirm with him

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He does use the "O" ring style, but not the Weber style that you have.  I ran into this issue a while back and had to have Todd overnight some insulators to me so that I my car would be ready for a race that weekend.  There is a special Mikuni style that has a bump to fully seal the flange.  Here is a picture of what they look like, and also a picture of the mikuni flange where you can see why the bump is needed.

 

mikuni_partslist2a.jpg

DSC06069.jpg

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Finally a worthy update! She is ALIVE!!!

 

My Mikunis showed up yesterday, so I immediately got to work.

 

 

 

Here are the specs that Todd at WolfCreek set me up with based on having dished pistons, electronic ignition, and my cam specs

 

 

Initially bolted on - went with short stacks for filter clearance (pics below)

 

 

 

I spent soooo much time trying to figure out the throttle cable mount… I had shortened it for the old webers and this made it tough as I couldn't bring it up over the fuel line. tried possible a hundred different options last night before giving up… went out and got another piece of aluminum stock this morning and came up with this (Below). the first version stopped shortly after the bolt… but this led to it spinning when the throttle was pulled all the way… so the second version I lengthened it to butt up agains the Jet cover, which keeps it from moving. not the prettiest.. but it works.

 

 

 

 

 

Runs pretty damn good… fired right up with no adjustments. played with it a little bit to make sure the two carbs were synched. Its running pretty rich so I may try a smaller set of jets… but need to pull the plugs and see how they look.

 

Sounds great! Best she has ever run I think. 

 

Heatshield is on hold for now… need to get some longer studs for the manifold… and gotta figure out a couple other things. Did have time to mess with it, as I needed to get my daily driver in the garage to check out an issue, so the sole focus was getting the datsun running under her own power so I could pull her out and back in.

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Looks good!  I bet it doesn't run rich without the Uni Filters on.  Something like K&N, Pipercross, or ITG filter would be much better.  There is so little surface area with the pod style Uni filters that they can be really restrictive.

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Looks good! I bet it doesn't run rich without the Uni Filters on. Something like K&N, Pipercross, or ITG filter would be much better. There is so little surface area with the pod style Uni filters that they can be really restrictive.

I like how easy these are to take on and off for tuning or track use

 

 

So after driving around yesterday my front plugs look like this

 

 

 

And my rears like this

 

 

 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

 

I can bump up for down two fuel jets if needed

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My ITG filter comes off with 3 quarter turn fasteners.  I don't even need any tools.  Doesn't get any easier than that.

 

In regards to the plug, what is your procedure for reading them?  IMO, the best way to do it is do a few full throttle runs up to redline, then shut the motor down immediately and pull the plugs to check them.  If you pull them after any easy driving or idling, you are just seeing the idle/easy driving conditions, which really don't matter.  Or buy a wide band, and take all the guess work out of it  :thumbup: .

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My ITG filter comes off with 3 quarter turn fasteners. I don't even need any tools. Doesn't get any easier than that.

 

In regards to the plug, what is your procedure for reading them? IMO, the best way to do it is do a few full throttle runs up to redline, then shut the motor down immediately and pull the plugs to check them. If you pull them after any easy driving or idling, you are just seeing the idle/easy driving conditions, which really don't matter. Or buy a wide band, and take all the guess work out of it :thumbup: .

Not much easy driving but enough to get it back in the garage - I'll give that a shot

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