Red 71 4dr - Carbed KA24DE
Posted 21 August 2012 - 07:02 PM
I beleive that cable is the parking brake cable, again didnt have much time to poke around- I hope to eventually relocate the handle somewhere down the road.
Shift pattern is your standard 5 spd with reverse being to the right (passenger) and back and 1st being to the left (driver) and forward
I did notice that there were electrical connections off the trans that were not hooked up to anything-
also looks like there may be some exhaust rubbing issues.
I guess I did want a project car in the first place though...
- Hermistonkilla likes this
Posted 21 August 2012 - 08:37 PM
Posted 22 August 2012 - 05:44 AM
Those are self exicting alternators. Like the GM type. I dont know it you have one of those.
So demo243 you still have alternator issues?
also I see they routed the batt cable under the car. I think I would route it inside to the trunk. But that is me and make your to gomment the holes so yout batt cable dont get worn and short out on the car and cause a fire. And be posted like the last guy that had the cable this way.
They make a battery kit just for this that discoonects but I dont run this myself.
Both mine are inside as incase the insulation gets rubbed over time or over bumbs it can be bad news.
Posted 22 August 2012 - 06:19 AM
That is a good call on that battery cable- add that one to the list of things to be taken care of- kinda suprised its underneath... there is nothing inside the car to impede running inside... no back seats to worry about... could just run it right through
Needs to be done-
-Flywheel Cover --> one piece is probably the best way to go... but alot more work. May have found a two piece- but I am not sure if it will fit or not since I still need to figure out what transmission I have - there are two engine/transmission plates for sale in the parts sections but they were different sizes... would much prefer not to have to pull the motor or drop the trans since I do not have an engine hoist or feel like disconnecting everything
-Bleed Brakes--> need to flush the system since the brake fluid is pretty rugged looking- would like to replace the pads as well- I have some wearever silver pads that i got with the car, but I think i am going to ditch those and get some porterfield's
-relocate battery cable from outside to inside the vehicle
-Find out why my front signals arent flashing
-get reverse lights working
-get tach and speedo working --> still need to pick up a speedo cable- and figure out how to wire the tack up with the electronic ignition
-5 point harnesses for driver and passenger
.... I think there is more I am forgetting...
Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:20 AM
On the trans set the volt meter to the Ohm scale and mayeb use the BEEP function so you can hear it. There will be a couple switches with 2 wires poking out. Find the set that when you put in reverse it will short out.
Then find the car wireing side and hook it up.
Mine dont work just I never hooked it up. I hooked them up wrong and they were on all the time and cop pulled me over when I was hammered. I tld him I just swap the trans and he let me go( I was lucky!!!!! So just dosconnected it. But might be hooked up now since frank swaped it out later so I got to ck.
find out what side the speedo cable hooks up. I will assume the driver side.
1st gear up it could be a later 80-83 trans from a NAPZ motor9might have a angle to the passenger side if org bellhousing still on, Or is a Z car trands(longer). I see the X memeber has been modded.
tach is a minor issue usually taken off the - side off the coil as this is what switches on/off.
Posted 22 August 2012 - 09:09 AM
Posted 22 August 2012 - 09:19 AM
Posted 02 September 2012 - 04:49 PM
unfortunately my 510 didnt make it up- got on the highway and made it about 1 exit before the throttle cable gave out- I guess the pedal throw is longer then the throttle actuator throw.... and the pedal stop was grinded off so pedal hit the floor and pulled the cable with it. got it fixed enough to limp it home and then grabbed the truck to get up there... pretty bummer it would have been a fun drive.
played around with it today- thought I had it good. went for a drive... walked home... got my tools rigged it up to get home again and then spent some time on it.
Shortened the housing for the cable since it had a very long unneeded loop to it- now its just a nice mellow swoop. Then replaced the cable put a brick on the gas pedal and hooked the cable up at full throttle so the pedal will be at the floor. There is a touch of slack in the cable if you pull the gas pedal all the way out but its not too bad. no pictures unfortunately.
stay tuned Ill post a link to a lime rock vintage thread
Posted 09 September 2012 - 06:21 AM
- Chad Z
'95 Subaru Legacy "Lucy" - SOLD
'96 Subaru Legacy Wagon "Charlotte - RIP
'99 Subaru Outback "Cheyenne" - RIP
'04 Subaru WRX "Stacie" - Daily Driver
You don't even own a Datsun. Get back to your Subaru forums! LOl
Posted 09 October 2012 - 06:29 AM
- Got a temporary passenger belt in; just a lap belt but better then nothing. Going to get a new set of 5 points for both passenger and driver soon
-Changed the oil since it was pretty dark- might be burning oil- used 10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic- doesnt seem to be leaking as bad
- Got tired of the ignition and ghetto key giving me trouble (also found out you could start it with a pair of scissors or similar object) so i pulled the whole ignition off- just running the 2x3 switch right now- need to source a new ignition- question is find the whole thing or try just a replacement cylinder? as the ignition body is fine just the cylinder is bad
Here is the big one-
- drove it to work yesterday and had a clunk happen twice on the way up- didnt feel anything just heard it. Got to work and realized the two spring bars to hold the trunk open make a very similar sound when they clip together so just thought it was those. - Left work and was in 4th when i got a good solid clunk and then the transmission started whining pretty loud. Stop to see if i could see anything but since the car is so low its hard to tell. Took it easy on the way home- seemed to drive fine- whining quieted down a bit- but now it has a wobbling whirling sound if that makes any sense coming from the trans when coasting in neutral- not connected to engine speed at all. All gears engage smoothly- no power loss. Cruised most the way home when I got the clunk again after shifting into 2nd- not under heavy power. Havent had a chance to get under there and look, but any thoughts? clunks definitely sounded like they came from the rear-
once i get this figured out I want to get the brakes bleed and pads replaced - thinking of going with some porterfields
Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:33 AM
ck the trans to engine bolts
Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:55 AM
hopefully itll be nice the next few evenings and i can get it up on the jackstands and get under there-
Posted 18 February 2013 - 12:43 PM
Been lurking away again for a little while here- but got the fire lit under my ass again and decided its time to show the 510 some love again-
Just order some parts to help it STOP...
Goodrich Stainless Steel Lines - ATE Super Blue Fluid - Porterfield R4-S Pads/Shoes- Also got a Speedo Cable and the MSD Adapter to hopefully get my tach working- oh and two new harnesses as well - now the passenger wont have to worry about smacking their face on the dash
Now the waiting game... damn shipping from CA
While I've got her up on stands going to do to prob change the diff and trans oil
Autocross Rookie school is March 23rd so planning for that
Posted 20 February 2013 - 08:02 PM
Wahoo! Got a working tach! I know you all like pictures but there isnt much to take shots of-
If anybody ends up stumbing on this or finds it in a search- Im running the MSD 6A and a stock 71' 4 wire tach (2 white looped wires - green 12v - black ground). Required the MSD 8920 Tach adapter set up in the current mode (not magnetic)- Ended up mounting the tach adapter on the outside of the driver footwell just behind the hood release- then ran all the wires up behind the dash- threaded the Black ground and the white tach output wire through the firewall. Connected the ground to a ground and the white to the tach output of the 6A. On the inside the purple wire off the adapter is unused. As for wiring up the red wire to the tach Im not sure which side it is on for the looped wires. The way my tach is wired up the two white looped wires connect to different color wires. One connects to a green/white wire and the other to a green/black wire. I ended up connecting the red wire to the black/green wire as it wasnt connected to anything else and when i tried the red to the white/green wire it didnt work. stuffed everything back into the rats nest and put it all back together. Tested it just starting it in the garage and all seems to be well. bounces a bit at idle but smoothed out during the revs- need to get out on the road and she how accurate it looks/sounds
hopefully have my speedo cable tomorrow and ill get all 4 gauges working !
Parts for the brakes next week-
Posted 02 March 2013 - 06:48 PM
Drove her like I stole her today....
Then came home and put her up on jackstands to do brakes and tires this week
Also signed up for autocross rookies school on march 23rd and the no points race on the 24th!
Just need a helmet now
Posted 06 March 2013 - 07:58 PM
Alright update time-
Drained my brake fluid the other day... was pretty nasty looking
Then my tires came in a day early... and I got my brake parts and harnesses onetime like Christmas a few months late - Wahoo!
Then after a bunch of PB Blaster soaking... a few swears... a few scares that I might strip a nut on the hard lines... a trip to Sears for some Flarenut wrenches (KEY!!! These Make a World of Difference)... a few more swears... a bit more PB Plaster... another scare that I was twisting the hard line... some more PB Blaster... And I have Stainless Steel Brake Lines! Havent rebleed the system yet, but i did hook up the power bleeder and it seemed to hold air pressure.
Tires are off getting mounted so should have those back tomorrow.
Next step is bleed the system with cheap napa fluid to get the air completely out- then rebleed it with ATE Super Blue. Once Bleed time to change the pads- installing Porterfield R4-S pads/shoes.
Then the final step is the bolt in the new harnesses.
Also realized I have a split half shaft boot... bummer... need to order up those parts and rebuild those soon- found a good write up on them though ---
Pretty Stoked that I am finally getting some work done on the Dime
thinking I might make up a stencil for some BRE Racing Stripes on the Fenders/Doors
Posted 07 March 2013 - 07:55 PM
Brake system reblead- Motiv Power Bleeder definitely helped- although i did end up doing a mix between the power bleeder and the gheto 2x4 to hold the brake pedal down method- which made a big difference... but i also completely cleared out the system to install the brake lines so had to rebleed the two master cylinders as well. bench bleed might have been better but i didnt pull the masters. either way the pedal feels pretty good right now-
next up - flush the system with ATE super Blue- then pad/shoes install porterfield R4-S - harness install and put the wheels back on and hoon her - first autox is coming up soon!
Just another night working away in the garage - while progress is slower then it should be, i am just taking my time and trying not to mess anything up, and really enjoying working on her- exactly what i had hoped for when i bought her -
Thanks again Brad ( Mr. Bohica )! - Haven't seen if youve been back on here but I hope you find yourself another Dime- and this one is in good hands
Posted 08 March 2013 - 08:30 AM
A write up said Acetone ATF(5050 mix) fluid is better that PB Blaster.
I use a plastic bottle and a long plastic line to bleed. If the bubbles are far away no way they will come all the way back up the line to the brake.
pwer bleeder is better as you dont push the master the full length and maybe pop them as there might be a ridge in cly that rippes the plunger/seal