dhp123166 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 One measurement per customer. The head from the edge of the tranny to the edge of the water pump = 19" Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 This weeks "issues" So I'm gonna go on a roadtrip again about two weeks ago and it is raining hell. I went to the local Big 5 to buy a pair of boots and coming home the electrical items start acting weird. I rolled into my neighborhood Autozone to have them test the battery, it is drained so I get a jump and make it home into the garage where I proceed to change the battery (had a spare, cost; free) and test the charging system which is charging low (11 amps). Damn that alternator is a new remanufacture with only 7 mos. run time, oh well here we go again. The starter did not seem to be starting that well either so I try jumping the solenoid...and the thing just whirrs...damn bad starter too. I order a new alternator from Pep Boys 'cause it's gonna take a coupla weeks to arrive. So I transfer all my stuff to my Honda and take the roadtrip w/out incident. Getting back I pull the starter out...I'm looking at it and it hits me...I have one of these somewhere...sure enough in a half-forgotten box on a shelf is a new remanufactured starter identical to the one I took off (it's basically a 240z starter; cost; free) So that's cool, I then remove the alternator...and the battery leads kind of snap off...huh, that's not right...and then it hits me, I had low charging caused by weakened terminals (diesel engines shake alot). All I need to do is test this alternator. Autozone and Pep Boys could not test it on their alternator testers so I was like...frigg it, I'll just put it on after I replace the terminals, I might be right about this. Sure enough after repairing the battery leads, installating the alternator and after removing the remnants of the unused stock brake booster and plugging the oil feed lines, the thing charges like a champ at 14 amps. Cost; 2 terminals. So that is pretty much all the peripheral systems which have been replaced, I just ordered a pair of those clear/ orange JDM front turn signals off of eBAY. I used accrued eBAY bucks and the total was $5.30 shipped. They're coming from Thailand so I won't hold my breath waiting for them to get here... Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 MY JDM FRONT TURN SIGNALS ARRIVED FROM SINGAPORE TODAY! YAY! ARRIVED AHEAD OF SCHEDULE (WOW) ! Just needed to switch the plugs and reuse the gaskets from my stock front turn signals. Me likee!!!!!!!! BEFORE (BOTTOM); AFTER(TOP); Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Cosmetic difference. Looks good. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 So, did you put amber bulbs behind the clear lenses? Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 No amber bulbs, I like the clear look up front. If I really want to get into it I will put superwhite bulbs in the proper size. I already tried 1156 or 1157 superwhite bulbs that I had on the shelf and they fit but got so hot it was only a matter of time until the housings melted!! NEXT PROJECT? There's a guy on eBAY in Mexico whom plastic casts different colored and clear lenses for vehicles and he makes clear front corners for the 720. His feedback is kinda spotty so I'm a little apprehensive about doing any kind of business with him though... ...but maybe in the future? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 No amber bulbs, I like the clear look up front. If I really want to get into it I will put superwhite bulbs in the proper size. I already tried 1156 or 1157 superwhite bulbs that I had on the shelf and they fit but got so hot it was only a matter of time until the housings melted!! NEXT PROJECT? There's a guy on eBAY in Mexico whom plastic casts different colored and clear lenses for vehicles and he makes clear front corners for the 720. His feedback is kinda spotty so I'm a little apprehensive about doing any kind of business with him though... ...but maybe in the future? I bought from one of them guys down there, his ebay name is micas_y_mas, they are not show quality, but are decent. I paid $29.95 to get them to my door, and they came fairly fast for being shipped just after thanksgiving. 1 Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 That's the guy. Quick question, are the lenses and housings able to come apart like OEM? All the pictures make them look one piece. Thanks for your input Wayno. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 That's the guy. Quick question, are the lenses and housings able to come apart like OEM? All the pictures make them look one piece. Thanks for your input Wayno. As I said. they are decent, but the lense has a white hue to it, but all of them get that way eventually. I planned on having a plastic grill chromed and using these lenses, but that fell though, so now I am undecided about what I am going to do, I need to find someone local that chromes plastic. Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I think I'm gonna get them, he now offers them for $15.00 a pair + shipping. Unless you wanna sell yours? Thanks for the clarification Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I think I'm gonna get them, he now offers them for $15.00 a pair + shipping. Unless you wanna sell yours? Thanks for the clarification I am going to keep them, I hope to find someone to chrome a grill for me one day. Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 That's cool. I'm the high bidder ($14.95) on a pair on eBAY right now! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 That's cool. I'm the high bidder ($14.95) on a pair on eBAY right now! Mine was "buy it now". Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 For many years in the 1970s Chrysler had the monopoly on importing Nissan Diesel engines as a component, so your engine could have come from a stationary installation or even an Austin London taxi conversion which was sold to many Sun Belt resorts as a customer pickup vehicle with the luggage rack on the rear bumper and the open luggage section to the drivers left. Scottsdale Arizona had many resorts running these converted Austins. Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 For many years in the 1970s Chrysler had the monopoly on importing Nissan Diesel engines as a component, so your engine could have come from a stationary installation or even an Austin London taxi conversion which was sold to many Sun Belt resorts as a customer pickup vehicle with the luggage rack on the rear bumper and the open luggage section to the drivers left. Scottsdale Arizona had many resorts running these converted Austins. That's fascinating. In the course of searching for parts I stumbled upon Jesco up in Ceres, Ca. and one of their mechanics Enrique was wondering if I knew who did the conversion. I could not tell him. I guess Jesco still supplies parts for the LD 28 and I am assuming alot of those parts will work on this LD 20 as well. And I think that I am very lucky that this is an L series engine and that opens up a whole world of parts switch possibilities from the world of Datsun L series engines. I think if I really wanted to research this vehicles "family tree" I could trace the ownership of the VIN number, and glean owner contact information accordingly. In the meantime I won those clear marker lights off of eBAY, should see'em in couple weeks (they're coming from Mexico) and I think I should really do something about the paint on my truck...nuthin' fancy but...something tough and wear resistant...SEM Rust Shield maybe? Dilemma; I seem to be chewing up my speedo gears (plastic? really? ), the one that came with vehicle was replaced 2 or so months ago and the new one I took of my defunct ZCAR is starting to bounce around. Upon inspection it looks like the gear driving it is covered with light surface rust and I was informed that rust will tear those plastic speedo gears apart. There is sea air getting in there rusting that gear. I don't think I had this problem on my ZCAR and it is the same model transmission I am not going to tear into this tranny to repair this minor issue. I have another L Series 5 Speed that I saved off of my defunct ZCAR for when this one heads south. I'll just replace the whole thing but it is in great shape so not anytime soon. I am just wodering if there is a way to seal that part of the tranny up so no moist air gets in.... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 The only reasons that I know of that would allow water/rust in the transmission is if it was under water at some point, or it sat in one spot for a very long time. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Every car uses plastic speedometer driven gears, even Ford and Chevy. First I've heard of them rusting, as when in motion a small amount of gear lube goes into the tail housing. Maybe the lube level was low for a long period of time? Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Every car uses plastic speedometer driven gears, even Ford and Chevy. First I've heard of them rusting, as when in motion a small amount of gear lube goes into the tail housing. Maybe the lube level was low for a long period of time? To clarify, the gear driving the plastic speedo gear is what is rusting and the rust acts as an abrasive which grinds the plastic of the speedo gear. Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 MY NEW FRONT CLEAR MARKER LIGHTS. I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE THESE!!!!!!!!!!! After (top) and before (bottom); Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 MY NEW FRONT CLEAR MARKER LIGHTS. I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE THESE!!!!!!!!!!! After (top) and before (bottom); I am happy that your transaction went well with that seller from Mexico, it looks good, now you need the clear bumper lenses(turn signal lenses) with amber bulbs inside, it will never end you know. :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted February 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 I am happy that your transaction went well with that seller from Mexico, it looks good, now you need the clear bumper lenses(turn signal lenses) with amber bulbs inside, it will never end you know. :lol: :lol: :lol: Aw hell no, I went through what you are speaking of with my 280z, 16 years and not too much accomplished. I know the signs and am heading them off at the pass. So far I have resisted 3 major junkyard scores; a bolt in custom roll bar w/ light mounts on top, right and left aftermarket aluminum running boards, and one of those plastic/ fiberglass front top windshield sunshade dealios. The latter almost had me but I do not want to put holes in my roof, my truck is pretty much blemish free. I just don't have the time nor energy anymore to invest in large projects. Of course I would not be averse to installing one of those handy dandy bug deflectors.... Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 So my truck had a very hard and drawn out start the other day last week. Then the next day it did not start at all. I was envisioning the worst case scenario and made preparations for buying a new motor and/or finding an injection pump and injectors. I had it towed to my mechanics and it turns out it was nothing but decayed glow plugs. Probably the originals. He sourced them new from an '82 Diesel Maxima and made a new harness w/ the correct solenoid (P.O. had used a starter solenoid). Glow plugs have also been properly installed w/ 100 amp inline blade fuse. It turns out the harness leading to the rear plug was shorting against the dipstick and now it is not. Not only does my truck work like it should, the non-functioning mechanical fuel gauge is now functioning and I have seen a 50 mile increase in miles per tank. I love it when things fix themselves!! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 So my truck had a very hard and drawn out start the other day last week. Then the next day it did not start at all. I was envisioning the worst case scenario and made preparations for buying a new motor and/or finding an injection pump and injectors. I had it towed to my mechanics and it turns out it was nothing but decayed glow plugs. Probably the originals. He sourced them new from an '82 Diesel Maxima and made a new harness w/ the correct solenoid (P.O. had used a starter solenoid). Glow plugs have also been properly installed w/ 100 amp inline blade fuse. It turns out the harness leading to the rear plug was shorting against the dipstick and now it is not. Not only does my truck work like it should, the non-functioning mechanical fuel gauge is now functioning and I have seen a 50 mile increase in miles per tank. I love it when things fix themselves!! It's always good when things work themselves out without a lot of effort. I am surprised that your fusible link didn't blow, mine did, and then all sorts of things quit working, but these engines will start in warm climates without properly functioning glow plugs, they are just hard to start(turn over a long time), but with good glow plugs that work properly, they start right away, and hardly smoke at all when cold. Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 I am a Nissan Diesel convert. This engine is virtually bulletproof. I have run it for 130 miles with a busted water pump gasket and half the coolant remaining and it was fine. Now I just have to get the OEM water inlet off the block as the end is badly corroded underneath the water hose. The two bolts holding it on are blocked from direct access and may be corroded in the block. I was gonna just replace with an L6 inlet and bypass the heater that I don't use and maybe get a new end welded onto the stock one somewhere down the line 'cause I am having no luck finding an original replacement. Quote Link to comment
dhp123166 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 So I repaired my badly corroded water inlet and the solution was much easier than anticipated. First here is a picture of the offending piece; Underneath the hose clamp there are two holes and the whole area is lumpy. First P.I.T.A issue; Finding a replacement. Not easy since the LD20 was never used on domestic vehicles. JESCO of Ceres, CA. is out of business but I am in contact w/ their chief mechanic Enrique. They gave him 10 new LD20 engines but he does not want to part one out for this piece. Oh well. He suggested welding a new end on and I did consider it. The LD28 engine uses a similar one but it has an extra side inlet, no big deal but the only one I found was as badly corroded as this one which led me to the possible solution of using a regular l-6 inlet since the bolt pattern is the same, I would be bypassing the heater inlet but I don't use it now anyway. This led me to... P.I.T.A. issue number two; removing the two bolts holding the piece in. They are almost completely blocked from getting a good grip on them to exert the proper torque. Also these are water related parts so I am thinking that it is a high probability that they are corroded inside the block. If I snap one of these then my problems really begin. In a flash of insight I saw the solution; a piece of copper pipe epoxied in place inside the end and epoxy used to fill the holes and generally build up the area. I was gonna take pictures of the process but it was done so fast I just didn't do it. I did not use just any epoxy, I used Plasticweld acrylic epoxy. This stuff is just so freaking good, it works on everything and is head and shoulders above anything else I have ever used. J.B. Weld (just bullshit!) Krazy Glue (a little too sane). I put in my coffee in the morning haha. Just kidding... Go buy some. Now! Here are my new LED additional taillights 'cause those little stock ones just don't cut it anymore. These were $29.95 but I had a $20.00 off Autozone bonus so it came out to $11.58. They installed in minutes and light up the road like Christmas. LED's have little power draw as well. Quote Link to comment
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