LOWER Seat Position (drastic interior mods?)

[Ben280]

Trying to get my seat lower in my car, at the moment its too high, and because it mounts on the side instead of the bottom, I think I'm gonna have to take drastic measures.

 

Question for the ratsunners out there, will i run into rigidity issues in the chassie if I remove the cross pieces where the seat mounts stock? And any tips for making the transmission tunnel more seat friendly?

 

EDIT****

 

Just to clarify what I am asking about, here is a photo. The things circled in red are what I am considering chopping out. Need advice on replacing with something if needed and the best way to modify the drivers side transmission tunnel to clear the new lower seating position.

 

[San Maru]

No, the stock bracket is not structural. My s30 seats work just fine. If you have different seats, thats your monster and I cant help you with that.

[Uber Deaf One]

No, the stock bracket is not structural

 

Are you sure? When Indy cut his off he said something about hearing the chassis creak or something lol. I would imagine those are pretty important structurally...

[San Maru]

Not as important as subframe connectors or a propper build. If you are relying on a flimsy spot welded seat bracket, you may want to go with plan b.

[Tice]

I am wondering the same things as the OP. I installed a Sparco Sprint 5 and used Sparco brackets bolted to that cross section bit, where the Stock Seats mount. Now my Seat position feels too high for me, and I considering hacking out that cross section... but than realized it may be important to rigidity. Can anyone give a deffinate answer?

[Ben280]

Updated the OP with a photo better describing the issues. Seems like it is definitely structural, so anybody have tips on what to replace it with?

[San Maru]

Here is an idea! Make your own seat brackets! C'mon dude, this isnt rocket science. Its just metal. Get out a tape measure, cut, bend, drill, grind, weld, done. And post some pics when you're done.

[I'm BLUE]

Here is an idea! Make your own seat brackets! C'mon dude, this isnt rocket science. Its just metal. Get out a tape measure, cut, bend, drill, grind, weld, done. And post some pics when you're done.

 

yeah . You can definetly replace with just about whatever metal you want however you want lol.

 

Go to Clackamas Steel ... They have fair pricing ,,, they even have scrap metal by the pound !!! ( as them about it ,,, about .50 cents last time I checked )

 

I would look at some of their square tubing ,,, you can buy it by the foot ,,, it's pretty easy.

 

I would recommend something but I have no idea what or how you are wishing to mount your new seats. :)

 

18-22 gauge sheet metal is about $30-36 for 4ftx4ft.They will sell it smaller I believe.

[Ben280]

HAHA. I forgot for a minute that the spirit of this forum was "CHOP IT UP" rather than "be cautious and think then dont do it!"

 

I already have seats mounted on custom DIY rails, but it wont sit low enough for me and my helmet. Think I'll chop out the cross frame braces and weld in 3/4" square tube as a new frame base then use a Planted seat bracket. And probably just smash the tunnel with a hammer until i get close enough. Photos will get posted when I'm done!

[San Maru]

Hurry up every chance you get.

[Ben280]

Hurry up every chance you get.

 

I do that and my exhaust keeps falling off!!!!

[Tice]

Think I'll chop out the cross frame braces and weld in 3/4" square tube as a new frame base then use a Planted seat bracket. And probably just smash the tunnel with a hammer until i get close enough. Photos will get posted when I'm done!

 

Thats the spirit! :rofl:

[Ben280]

Just to come back with finished results, I made it work, and got the seat 4 inches lower, with room for adjustability in the seat up and down.

 

Step 1) Remove stock cross members. Spotweld cutter and cold chisel work well for this part. The front piece is much easier than the rear.

 

Step 2) Weld up all the holes you made with step 1!

 

Step 3) Beat the piss out of the transmission tunnel. Don't worry, there's lots of space under!

 

Step 4) figure out side to side where you want the seat to be located. chances are this is on the slope of the transmission tunnel. To get the square bar to fit level, I cut a "flap" out of the floor.

 

Step 5) Tack in the square bar and measure for other side of the seat. Tack in that piece and make some cross beams for rigidity. I ended up with a "H" shape in my floor.

 

Step 6) Drill holes for everything!

 

ProTip: When you install your seat, i did it with the brackets loosely attached, and with the mounting hardware already through the bracket, so when i dropped the seat in, the bolts would go straight through the floor. If you don't do it this way, prepare for a WORLD of frustration.

 

I'll come back tonight and post photos of the finished product!