Replacing center support/carrier bearing - How?

[Jasper]

So I've got the drive shaft out, and it's sitting on the tailgate. How the hell do I get this thing on the thing?

 

I'm sure it's something obvious, but I have no idea. My manual doesn't give me any clues about this, and I can't find any pictures online.

 

 

 

And yes, I did post this in multiple sections. I kind of need to know, before it becomes a roaring inferno outside.

 

Thanks.

[HRH]

Pull off the four bolts holding the two together. You'll find a nut on the inside. Undo that nut (you'll want an impact for that), then pull the flange off. That will allow you to press the center support bearing off (or what's left of it in your case). Tip for the new one. After you get the old bearing off, take some 220 and sand the surface it mates against. That bearing doesn't need to be a press fit. It needs to be tight, so sand it just enough so you can get the new bearing on, but it's tight. Either way, instead of the 3 or 4 thousandths press fit, you'll have a 1 thousandths press fit which will be much easier to get off in future.

[Jasper]

Those 4 bolts were really tight. Either torqued, or loctited, not sure. Still, no mach for my 3 foot cheater bar.

 

 

Now on to this giant nut...

 

I pray I have a socket to fit this beast. First word out of my mouth when I saw it, "REALLY?!?".

 

 

 

Thank you so much.

[Dawa]

hey jasper, what a coincidence i just did this last night also.

all you need is (2) 14mm wrenches for the nuts/bolts, and then a 27mm wrench and A WHOLE LOTTA TORQUE to break the torque on that 27mm nut inside that... you gotta get create with it. you have to get even more creative when you have to retorque that nut (to a minimum of 145 ft/lb.)

 

heres the thread i posted on last night http://community.ratsun.net/topic/44734-propeller-shaft-flange-bolt-seals-carrier-bearing/

 

HRH, what kind of press did you use?

[Dawa]

oh and for those (4) bolts.. im not sure if you already got them off but for OTHER people's future benefit...

attach the 2 14mm wrenches and instead of applying breaking torque with a cheater bar, wack the wrench thats on the nut with a mallet or similar, that did the trick for me. although i gotta say im impressed that a 3 foot cheater didnt do the trick.

 

as for the 27mm wrench,i bought this 13 piece set from harbor freight for $22

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-deep-wall-impact-socket-set-67904.html

[Jasper]

Oh, the 4 little bolts were easy enough after I got it clamped down in a vice and used the cheater pipe.

 

 

I think I'm going to have to concede defeat with this thing though. I'm just not strong enough, and I don't have any impact tools, and I don't have a vice anchored into the ground. I was just outside, standing on my largest vice, using my longest wrench and pipe combo, and I can't get it. I have considered applying heat, but I'm just too lazy, and it's already over 100 degrees outside.

 

I know a hydraulics shop that probably has the tools to do this, and I'm friends with the owner, so hopefully I can use some of their tools.

 

I don't even know if my 150 pound body is capable of it though, even with the proper leverage.

[DatDoug]

Take it to a machine shop.

[Dawa]

the method i used, which most definitely isnt the best, was:

with the 27mm socket attached to nut, and breaker bar attached to that,

i picked up the shaft in my hands and slammed the end of that breaker bar onto the ground...

[HRH]

Hand tools suck for carrier bearings. Need air. I have a cheap 10 ton harbor freight press, works great. Electric impact at least will help a lot. Breaker bars are great, but rather difficult for driveshaft bearings. It's probably more cost effective to take it down to Schwabs and have them do it if you don't have air and a press. Otherwise you'll spend all day doing it.

[Jasper]

I took the shaft piece and the new carrier bearing to a transmission shop. Seems like they'd have the tools to do it right. He got the big nut off in about 4 seconds with an impact driver, and got most of it apart before I left. He's waiting for his coworker to get back from lunch now, since he knows where all the parts are for their press.

 

Seems like in an hour or so, I should be able to get all this crap back under the truck, and be on the road safely again! Just in time for the 110 degree heat. :sneaky:

[Jasper]

All done!

 

Thanks everyone.

 

 

Took her for a spin, and the truck is definitely more stable now, although it still starts rattling above 50 mph. Could be any number of things really.

[Eagle_Adam]

is the truck lowered?

[Jasper]

2 Inches.

 

Perhaps I should get a spacer to go under the shafts center support? Or maybe new shocks? Or maybe the shocks are constantly bottoming out?

 

The shaking is definitely concentrated at the back of the truck though. It stops when I get above 60. :confused:

[DanielC]

Try unbolting the rear half of the driveshaft, right behind the carrier bearing, and turning either the front half, or the rear half 180 degrees, and put it back together.

Test drive again. See if it helps.

[ggzilla]

27mm is the size of the crankshaft pulley bolt -- it's not a rare size.

 

How strong a mechanic doesn't matter. They use leverage (long bars) or machines (impact wrench). And a torque wrench to put it back together. To fasten to the 145 ft lb spec, you can use a long breaker bar. For example I weigh 190, so would stand on the bar at 9" mark. You can use angle iron bolted to the flange to hold it down along the ground and keep the shaft from turning while you tighten it.

[bostonereid]

Not sure about removing the flange from my driveshaft.  there are two bead welds on it and I was wondering if those are supposed to be there?  tried tapping of the flange with a hammer and piece of 2x4 but it didn't budge.  Stuck in Nashville. Neverminde.  tapped it off.

[margaritaville]

Where did you get your bearing and do you have a part#?

I ordered mine from Rock Auto and the machine shop said it was the wrong one, they then ordered the "correct" one, and sure enough it still is not right. They said when it is pressed on it freezes up.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

[datzenmike]

The 620 has a flange on the driveshaft??? Not that I know of.

 

If the two bearings didn't fit maybe this is some custom driveshaft???

 

 

Post a picture of it

[dueceduece11]

Do I have the right drive line

[dueceduece11]

The one on the left was just pulled out of my 73 620.

[HRH]

You sir, appear to have pulled the rubber and metal sleeve from the bearing casing.  Which means the bearing is still stuck tightly on the shaft.  Without a bearing splitter and a press, I suggest dremel tool and a cut off wheel longitudinally.  Careful not to nick the driveshaft.

[Mysta2]

Dredging up an old topic for a new question. I'm replacing this carrier bearing now and I would like to know how to torque the big nut holding the bearing in place. It has a notch in it to keep the nut from backing out which usually suggests that it's not supposed to be all that tight. Earlier in this thread someone said that it requires 140 which I can't seem to do without the thing spinning. I have an impact gun and can spin it on nice and tight but the bearing gets really tight when I do.

[Mysta2]

So according to David Murphys site the torque spec for the bolt is 108-145 ft-lb.

 

I guess Ill be looking for a set of torque limiters for my wrench.

[carterb]

recently did this on Bruiser:

 

Start at post #264:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57139-bruiser-78-620-kc-project/page-14

 

There is really no axial load on that bearing and torquing that nut down crushes it and tightens it up as you discovered.  If I did it again I would treat it like a wheel bearing and turn the nut to remove play then crimp over the sleeve and call it good.

 

I don't want to replace it again any time soon and crushing the bearing will ensure an early failure.

 

Part of the problem may be in the replacement bearing itself.  New in the box, it was not as smooth as the one I replaced (which I assume was OEM).  In addition, the inner race might not be correct so when you torque the nut, you preload the bearing.  You should really be loading the sleeve only but it doesn't seem to work that way.

[Apollo77]

I need to do this on my truck and when I ordered the part i got a message from the company asking me to verify that "Your bearing ID should be 1.1811" without taking the thing apart i dont have that answer, does anyone here know the OEM spec on a 77 620 longbed?