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Steering box rebuild, is there anyone who does this/.


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Before blaming the box be absolutely sure all the other steering components are good or you will be wasting time and money fixing something that doesn't need fixing and be back where you started. Tie rod ends and idler arms are the ones to check.

 

Up to a point, the box itself can be adjusted. The problem here is that most wear is in the middle straight ahead position. If you adjust this out it can be extremely tight to each side, and this is no good.

 

 

 

Most of the bearing and gear parts are not available for the 510. A later HL510 box ill swap into the PL 510.

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My shop recently sent one from a 72 510 out to Meridian Auto Parts in San Diego. I must say I was impressed with the finished product. Wasn't cheap. Nice work though.

 

www.meridianautoparts.com

 

1-800-874-1974

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Before blaming the box be absolutely sure all the other steering components are good or you will be wasting time and money fixing something that doesn't need fixing and be back where you started. Tie rod ends and idler arms are the ones to check.

 

+1! My steering tightened up big time when I went thru and replaced all the rubber joints past the box and the upper and lower mounts.

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Do not tighten it down.

 

First find the center and move the steering wheel there. If it is off center you will overtighten the box.

Then tighten the screw with two fingers, back it off a little and turn it until it touches. There is not supposed to be any preload.

Tighten the locknut.

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This applies, kind of.

 

My box has a knock and a bit of slop and after a lot of checking around, I determined that the box wasn't actually the main issue - it was the universal joint in the steering column that is going out.

 

You might give that a check, since it's so small it was difficult for me to detect it until somebody else jiggled the steering wheel. That's when I noticed just a slight amount of play... but it's enough to be annoying and very noticeable at the wheel.

 

Since we're on the topic of steering rebuild... is there a way to replace the universal joint? P/N somewhere? Or would it be a matter of finding a new column rod and not bothering to replace that U-joint?

 

Food for thought.

 

Also, steering box braces work. Very well actually. Have somebody turn the wheel while stopped and watch how much the steering box will move - the brace almost eliminates that entirely.

 

 

As Hainz said, adjust the box and make sure everything else is in good working order before you worry too much about the box. While you're in there, replace the fluid... some people use CV axle grease. *shrug* I use 90W.

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Most box wear is concentrated in the middle where all the driving is done. If you adjust away all the play in the middle and then turn to the outer locks it will almost for sure be tighter and the wheel may not return when released. Always raise the front end and quickly spin lock to lock looking for tight spots or binds. Adjust to suit. At some point you just have to say the box is worn out and get rid of it.

 

I have a S110 200sx box that looks very very similar to the 510 box and the 710s look the same too. Certainly when looking at a worn out 510 box and no replacements available wouldn't it be reasonable to spend some money and time modifying and swapping something else in????

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I agree with just about everyone. I would be careful on that adjustment. It is sensitive and CAN make things worse.

 

 

I took a couple phone oics of the steering box

 

IMG_0624.jpg

 

IMG_0625.jpg

 

Oics don't do it justice. It looks better than new and there is ZERO play. I will be sending mine over as soon as I get on my 5teezy.

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All very good info on the box. My steering componets are all pretty tired so i will end up replacing all ends,etc and see if the slop is more manageable. Triple240z that is pretty. How much is expensive though? would love to do a R/P setup but its $700 for a custom R/P,wow. I found a guy that lives by me that does electric steering with a control box that has a 4 wire hook up and is capable to handle 2900lb car for around $800. Might do that and add a steering quickner because i hate the the stock ratio as well. Just cut and weld.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Most box wear is concentrated in the middle where all the driving is done. If you adjust away all the play in the middle and then turn to the outer locks it will almost for sure be tighter and the wheel may not return when released. Always raise the front end and quickly spin lock to lock looking for tight spots or binds. Adjust to suit. At some point you just have to say the box is worn out and get rid of it.

 

I have a S110 200sx box that looks very very similar to the 510 box and the 710s look the same too. Certainly when looking at a worn out 510 box and no replacements available wouldn't it be reasonable to spend some money and time modifying and swapping something else in????

 

just curious, has anybody tried swapping in the box from 710 or 200sx? I also am looking at very likely possibility of a worn out box on my 510 race car, goign through everything else first, but fact is, eventually the box WILL wear out even if not yet and trying to figure out what to do about.. have 2 510 track cars, both been raced over 20 years, so the boxes take a beating...

 

Your idea of the swap (i read about the HL 510 but can't find a source for those either anyway) is enticing, if it would be a box that could be bough NEW or at least off of much newer car

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You'll be sending it over where? If it has zero-play, I would guess you are not sending it to be rebuilt.

he'll be sending the one from his 510 to www.meridianautoparts.com.

 

the one he sent out for a customer NOW has zero play after sending it to meridian.

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  • 5 months later...

Reviving an old thread but I hope some people can point me in the right direction. About once a year I have this problem with my car. Not driving it more than 5k a year but this is what happens. If I crank the wheel to hard and all the ways to one direction. It makes a small noise and the then all of sudden the steering wheel is out and my alignment is off. This particular time I was turning left all the ways, and the right wheel is the one that is off. With the steering wheel straight the driver side wheel is fine, the passenger wheel is completely out. I have replaced the tie rods and did check to make sure everything is tight. Any help would be appreciated. 

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  • 3 years later...

Do not tighten it down.

 

First find the center and move the steering wheel there. If it is off center you will overtighten the box.

Then tighten the screw with two fingers, back it off a little and turn it until it touches. There is not supposed to be any preload.

Tighten the locknut.

Is there a video on how to find the center? I'm having the same issue

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