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TURTLE POWER!!!


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By the way, I'm glad you bought the car Micro!

Hey man, thank you for posting up on the CL thread. This one would have totally gotten away from me if it weren't for you and a couple other fellas. Thanks again.

 

So..as much as I love this car, she's missing something(and I'm not referring to the leopard print steering wheel cover). Seems.. naked.

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When I showed up to buy the car, I asked about the front bumper. "No bumper, sorry". Ok, that sucks, but I can deal with that. I drove around for a few days, not having time to rectify this problem, but today I took some time after work to go harvest the one off of my parts 73'.

 

I was getting down underneath to start wrenching, when it hit me.. "Do I already have a spare bumper? Besides the one on my wagon?". I wasn't sure, so I entered my hoard. Lo and behold! A bumper with brackets and overriders lonely, collecting dust in the corner! I snagged it.

 

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A little banged up, but the price was right. AND, I didn't have to remove the other bumper or fight the electrical connections.. another day, but not today; dinner was apparently on the table, so I needed to hurry!

 

I didn't have time to dig out a pair of 73' turn signals, but I did remove the generic running lights that had previously been a sad replacement for the real thing..

 

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Off with the brackets and overriders that resembled a pair of mollusk antennae, and on with the chrome!

 

 

 

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:D

 

I'm on the lookout for a nice, clean, straight one, so if anybody knows of one... ;)

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Hey, stay away from my ego B)

 

Haven't thought of a name yet.. the only one of my Datsuns that has a name is my 521.. my brother named it "The Once-Ler" long ago. It's my opinion that as a vehicle's "character" develops, time passes, and a history is made, then an appropriate name presents itself. A good name is earned.

 

Thanks, though, for making sure I didn't do something as irresponsible and pompous as that :D

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Haven't thought of a name yet.. the only one of my Datsuns that has a name is my 521.. my brother named it "The Once-Ler" long ago. It's my opinion that as a vehicle's "character" develops, time passes, and a history is made, then an appropriate name presents itself. A good name is earned.

 

Damn me editing ...

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Haha, I hoped that what I wrote wouldn't be taken offensively. It could be oddly funny in a self-centered sort of way to name your vehicle after yourself..... But to be honest, I'd say there's really only room for one Rafael B)

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While I was supposed to be at Wildwood Musicfest all day, instead I worked :( ... not even on a Datsun, but a Dodge Grand Caravan with a broken flywheel.. what a PITA. :poop:

 

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Anyway, to the fun stuff. After I got done and the lift was freed up, I picked up the 6 series for a little refreshment.

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Checking very briefly, I saw where my exhaust leak was coming from...

 

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I'll deal with that another day. But today, I was heading for this:

 

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A handful of pan bolts later, I had a sin-colored pool in the drain pan, floor and running down my arm. I would seriously be surprised if this trans was ever serviced.. just look at this fluid :no:

 

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I decided that due to the color, feel, and smell of the fluid, it would probably be a good idea to let it drain overnight. I'll head in first thing in the morning and install the new filter, pan gasket, and ATF.

 

I'd like to take this time to remind all of you out there driving Datsuns with Automatic Transmissions, that servicing the transmission regularly, while very commonly overlooked, is of UTMOST importance. A good rule of thumb is that every 25-30k miles, a fluid drain, along with filter change and pan gasket replacement should be performed. As durable as these automatics are, like everything else, they still need to be maintained. You can still get the pan gasket/filter at parts stores(I got mine through Napa for $11), and it takes just regular old Dexron III ATF.

 

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I've never owned one of these cars that when I had purchased it, that the transmission had appeared to be serviced, which leads me to believe that it's a widespread, neglected item. So be sure that if you haven't done it, even if you're not having noticeable problems, to get it done. Your Datsun will thank you. It may take an hour or so, and it can be messy(one of my LEAST favorite jobs), but it will ensure a long, happy, dependable transmission.

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^^^That's the way to do it.

 

I love it when there's a drain plug.. I think my favorite car to do an AT service on is the Subaru Forester(I forget which years, exactly. I'm sure Subaru does it with more than just the Forester, too). It has a drain plug, and also an exterior, easy to get to, spin on filter. Why can't they all be like that?

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^^^That's the way to do it.

 

I love it when there's a drain plug.. I think my favorite car to do an AT service on is the Subaru Forester(I forget which years, exactly. I'm sure Subaru does it with more than just the Forester, too). It has a drain plug, and also an exterior, easy to get to, spin on filter. Why can't they all be like that?

 

Ick that trans fluid certainly is a teeth-grinding event to see. Good on you for servicing the trans so quickly Micro :thumbup: My old Subaru Legacy wagon (91') had a drain plug on the auto trans pan to :) . Changed my trans fluid and filter first 100 miles of owning it.

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They don't use a drain plug because... the pan has to come off to replace the filter and adjust the bands anyway.

 

Micro you are right on about replacing the fluid. Refill and pull the return line off the rad and put a container under it. Start the motor and idle it a few seconds. When you get a quart out stop and refill the transmission and repeat. Slowly the old fluid trapped in the torque converter, the coolant lines and the rad will be flushed out. When the fluid coming out is bright red you're done. Top it up.

 

If you already drove it after the change it's too late and the old is mixed with the new. No biggie, it's better than not changing it.

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Got the new filter in place, as well as a spotless pan with nice new rubber gasket. Went to flush the trans using the same method that Mike described, but ended up not having quite enough ATF on hand(no parts stores around here are open on Sunday). I thought that I had more in the shop, but I must have been mistaken...

 

Tomorrow I'll hit up the parts store first thing, head into the shop earlier than usual, and finish the cleanse.

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I wasn't happy with the fact that I didn't have front turn signals with my new bumper, so I went to my parts car to retrieve the ones that were in its bumper, which proved futile, as the mounting studs on the housings were so rusted, that trying to remove them would have ended up with broken studs and unusable turn signals.. the only option was to take the entire bumper.

Photo2493.jpgPhoto2494.jpg

 

This ended up being quite a process, as the car was pulled out of a swamp when I found it.. (flashback time).

(Do keep in mind, that these pictures were taken after the lion's share of the brush was cut away - it was alot worse)

 

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(Back to present day)

 

If you've ever had to wrestle one of these bumpers off in the yard, you know how much of a process it is.. and I'm talking about taking it off the CORRECT way(not destroying the fenders in the process!). If you never have, here's how:

First, you'll want to disconnect the turn signal harnesses on each side. They should just slip apart, but if not, you may have to cut the plastic outer boot and pull them apart that way. Now, for the metal.. If you look on the inside edge of both the ends that curl around the fenders, you'll notice that there's a small tab with a threaded nut welded to it that is part of the bumper. There is a bolt that comes in through the fender, into the threaded nut and holds the bumper in place, keeping it from moving around and scratching your paint. You'll need a can of penetrating oil, as well as a set of vice grips. CAREFULLY sneaking the vice grips in between the fender and bumper(from the bottom), clamp onto the square nut on the tab. Your vice grips will be in a similar position to this:

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Another view from the side(here you can see the tab with the square nut. Also, you can see the threaded end of the bolt that sticks through the fender):

 

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Another view.. this one is a little more difficult to make out what's going on, but it's the same as the previous 2, only from below. This pic gives you a better view of the tab with the nut welded to it.

 

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While carefully holding the vice grips in place, go into the wheel well with a 12mm socket, and begin CAREFULLY breaking the holding bolt free, taking your time, working it back and forth, and applying more penetrating oil every so often...

 

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If you've done this step correctly, and have been patient, you'll end up with a nice, whole bolt like this:

 

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However, if you're NOT, then you'll end up with an unhappy bolt, like this:

 

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:no:

 

Once you have those bolts on either side out, you can now deal with the bumper brackets which hold the rest of the bumper on. There are 6 total, 3 on each side. Of these 3 on each side, there are 2 which generally end up being a pain in the arse. Again, spray the bolts down on both sides(head and threads) with penetrating oil. The heads are visible from inside the wheel well, while the threads are accessible from the engine compartment.

 

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Shown here are the 3 bolt holes. The rear 2(the easy ones), have already been removed. The front one is the one that I've found to be the most difficult of all. The reason for this? There is a strap that wraps around the front of the core support, which houses the nut that this bolt threads into(If you are able to cut or grind this bolt off at the head, you're probably better off doing that). However, if you're in the junk yard, prepare to bust your knuckles and get those vice grips ready.

 

This small strap which houses the nut that the bolt goes into, is made of thin, often corroded metal. As soon as you start twisting on the bolt, it usually breaks the strap, and then you're stuck with a free spinning bolt that doesn't ever go anywhere. This wouldn't be an issue, except for it's still holding your bumper on.. a pic of the strap, free spinning and broken:

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About all you can do is soak it down with penetrating oil, and try and find an angle with which to get your vice grips on the squared nut. This would also be much easier without the bumper in the way, but as this nut is preventing that from happening, you've got yourself a nice little Catch 22.

 

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Here is where the frustration manifests itself, skin starts disappearing, and children should be taken to a safe distance where audible rage can not offend.

 

Once you have a good hold on the nut, you can begin working the 14mm bolt head.. don't feel like you can trust the vice grips alone with the nut at this time.. they conspire and turn against you, causing more audible rage. One must hold the vice grips in place, not allowing any misbehavior or slippage. On the inside of the wheel well, you may begin SLOWLY working the bolt back and forth, adding penetrating oil where necessary.. this makes for awkward positioning, along with uncomfortable lying on the ground. Hope it's not raining :sweat:

 

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Once the two PITA front bolts are out(1 on each side), you should be able to get the back 4(2 on each side) out easily. Even if they break off, you'll be able to remove the bumper.. if you happen to be in the junk yard, it won't matter, as the bolt holes will never need to hold anything where they're going.. however, if it's on your own 610, you'll want to take a little more precaution as to not have to drill any busted bolts out. When all is said and done, the bumper should slide out, and you should now have yourself a hideous(aka "bumperless") 610..

 

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.. along with a loose bumper.

 

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At this point, if you were an impatient pupil and decided NOT to take Micro's advice on slowly working the bumper-to-fender bolts back and forth until they were out, you'll be faced with this:

 

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This is a picture of victory. In a happy world, 2 sets of vice grips and more penetrating oil will get you this. In a sad world, you'll either have to drill out, burn out, or leave the broken bolt where it's at. In my case, I was able to grab onto the bolt, as well as the square nut on the tab, and work it back and forth. Happy world.

 

Finished product: a bumper, complete with turn signals... a little less shiny, a little more mossy, but still just as sexy.

 

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your killingme man that thing has all the parts i need for my 73 front end lol

 

looks like you need to arrainge a road trip and sneak onto the property the micro has is stash on snag the parts you need and paypal him afterwards that way he isn't suspicious as to why you sent him paypal for know reason ahead of time :rofl:

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When I went to unplug the connectors for my turn signals/parking lights, I noticed that they had all been previously broken, then twisted together(on the light side of the connector, unfortunately), so I needed to mend the situation. With a little solder, a soldering gun, and some heat shrink,we were back in business.

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Passenger side complete.

 

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Did the same on the driver's side, and everything was honky dory.

 

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:)

 

While on the subject of lighting, while I was driving home the other night(the same night I discovered my dash lights didn't work :P), I noticed that my driver's side light seemed to be veering off to the side. In daylight, I checked it out and as usual, the headlight retaining ring had broken at the welds..

my girl had a lazy eye(e.g.

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Well, I couldn't be caught riding around in something like THAT.. something bad was bound to happen!

 

So I took the liberty of removing the grill, and dealing with the issue.

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Busted.

 

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Fixed!

 

No more lazy eye!

 

:)

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