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Leaf Spring Bushings


dp320

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Removal process

 

The first thing to do is to take a propane torch and set it under the bushing eye for about 5 minutes, until the rubber marsmallows and smokes. You should then be able to push the rubber part with the inner sleeve out using a hammer and maybe a socket on a socket extension, if that's what's available. Sorry no photos of this.

 

Then you have the outer sleeve remaining in the leaf spring eye. Probably some hydraulic press would do this conveniently. I don't have one.

 

Carefully cut the outer sleeve at two locations 180° apart.

 

leafspringbushing1.jpg

 

Be as careful as possible not to cut the leaf spring. You probably will a little bit. No matter, the Transportation Department doesn't have enough inspectors to check yours, yet.

 

leafspringbushing2.jpg

 

Here's both cuts.

 

leafspringbushing3.jpg

 

Next, take some sort of punch and begin working one half of the sleeve out. I used a center punch since this gave me "purchase" on the edge better. It takes a bit of work.

 

leafspringbushing4.jpg

 

 

leafspringbushing5.jpg

 

Removed.

 

leafspringbushing6.jpg

 

leafspringbushing7.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

The rear leaf spring shackle bushings (55046-07200) I got from nissanpartszone.com.

 

The front leaf spring bushings (55045-07200) weren't in stock anywhere I checked. I called Bob at ATSsprings.com and gave him dimensions. What he came up with was a 1.25" x 2.25" x 2.75" x 5/8" Ford bushing, where the 1.25" is the OD of the outer sleeve, the 2.25" is the length of the outer sleeve, the 2.75" is the length of the inner sleeve and the 5/8" is the ID of the inner sleeve (i.e. the 5/8" bolt fits inside).

 

So the problem is the bracket on the frame is only a nominal 2.5" wide. But all that you have to do is grind down the inner sleeve 1/8" on both ends.

 

A remaining bushing problem I have is for the torsion rod bushing (54423-04300). It looks like it too is sleeved and that the OD of the sleeve is 1.5". The ID of the inner sleeve isn't a regular measurement in either mm or inches as far as I can tell. It mic's out at 0.70".

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had to improvise for the Torsion Bar bushings. I again went to ATS but had to settle on a bushing with a 3" L x 0.75" ID inner sleeve, no outer sleeve, and a 1.75" OD. Since the frame already has a "sleeve" built in, I decided a bushing without an outer sleeve would be entirely adequate. Reducing the length of the inner metal sleeve is simple enough with a grinder.

 

I was concerned with the ID of the inner sleeve, since my measurement of the old one was 0.71" However, the splined "bolt" that joins inside the torsion arm still fit quite nicely without much slop really. But that leave the OD of the rubber to deal with.

 

After removing the old outer sleeve I measured the ID of the sleeve in the frame at 1.41". This means I'd have to reduce the amount of rubber by 0.34". My tool of choice was an angle grinder.

 

I looked around for something that would serve as a loose-fitting shaft and found a concrete form stake I had worked perfectly.

 

torsionbushingjig.jpg

 

Clamp the "axle" down, find a few washers and a bent nail to hold the assemble in place. You'll notice a chunk of polyethylene foam (blue). I skewered this onto the stake and it served to keep pressure on the bushing during the "milling" process. What you want achieve is a bit of friction so the bushing can't rotate at the same speed as your grinder--this is what forces material to be removed as the bushing slowly turns. You also want to allow the bushing to turn so that material is removed evenly, it's a balance of two competing needs.

 

torsionbushinggrinding.jpg

 

 

It's a messy job, be sure to wear a dust mask and of course safety goggles. Use a micrometer frequently and move your grinder back and forth for uniformity.

 

I apparently haven't uploaded my "after" photos but I ended up with a bushing that fit surprisingly well, and already have one of the torsion bars installed.

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  • 4 years later...

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